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"count": 140,
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{
"id": 1,
"polity": {
"id": 137,
"name": "af_durrani_emp",
"long_name": "Durrani Empire",
"start_year": 1747,
"end_year": 1826
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 137,
"name": "af_durrani_emp",
"long_name": "Durrani Empire",
"start_year": 1747,
"end_year": 1826
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
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"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“For the role of the Afghans, Gommans makes large assertions, arguing that the formal claims of the Durrani empire coincided exactly with the world of the Afghan trader. More interesting than this apparent attempt to suggest that the Durrani empire was as much an empire of trade as one of the swords is the author's careful examination of the horse trade in Central Asia and India”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FESUZ8B4\">[Rafeq 1996]</a> “Zooming into the Multan province, which remained under Durrani authority until it was lost to the Sikhs in 1818, it is argued that its Afghan rulers were typical of eighteenth-century elites elsewhere in south and central Asia in incentivising productive activities, especially the expansion of cultivation and the intensification of commercialisation, supported through the development of productive infrastructure such as canals, as revealed through an examination of the indigo economy. To conclude, this essay examines alternative formulations of the emergence and transformation of the Durrani state and the fruitfulness in world and imperial history of thinking beyond the narrative of tribal breakout”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SFWWGFG3\">[LALLY 2018, p. 373]</a> “Of immediate significance to the rise of the Durrani polity in the mid-eighteenth century was the prior settlement of Abdali tribesmen near Multan, in western Punjab, where they traded in camels, presumably as nodes in a larger network reaching further into north India and Afghanistan. This Indo-Afghan diaspora proved instrumental in the successful contest with their Ghilzai opponents in Herat in 1717, prior to the Nadirid and Durrani campaigns, and it was within the community of Multani Abdalis that Ahmad Shah had either been born or else spent his early life”. (Lally 2018, 376) Lally, J. (2018). Beyond ‘Tribal Breakout’. Journal of World History, 29(3), 369-398. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SFWWGFG3\">[LALLY 2018]</a> \" “Under Firozuddin, Bukharan caravans filled with gold sand and silver arrived two to three times a year, while there was a steady stream of commerce from both Kandahar and Meshad. But his successors increased the transit duties to onerous levels. Apart from the normal one in forty duty levied on entering the city, caravans had to pass through five duty collection points in transit, collecting a hefty Rs. 23 per camel. Yet even under the depressed state of Kamran’s rule, the Bukhara caravans alone were responsible for 600 tomans of tax revenue annually.142 Much of that commerce, including the Kashmiri shawls Leech valued at one crore of rupees, was later diverted via the Gulf. The indigo trade with Multan and Shikarpur, formerly worth Rs. 10,00,000 annually, plummeted to barely Rs. 10,000 under Kamran”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/M94XDPKV\">[Hopkins 2008, p. 154]</a> \" “Previous restrictions on imports from India had disappeared by the 1830s, making Indian cloth, indigo, cotton and sugar, as well as European manufactures Kabul’s chief imports. By the early 1830s, it was claimed Kabul imported Rs. 3,00,000 worth of British goods and Rs. 2,00,000 worth of Russian goods, although Leech claimed the Lohanis alone imported Rs. 6,00,000 annually from India. These goods were carried to Kabul in caravans of between 600 and 2000 camels, almost exclusively driven by the Lohanis. But the Bukharan trade nonetheless remained both important and profitable, with Naib Badruddin, the largest Kabuli merchant, importing Rs. 1,00,000 worth of silk from Bukhara in 1835 from an original investment of Rs. 40,000–50,000 made two years previously”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/M94XDPKV\">[Hopkins 2008, p. 154]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 2,
"polity": {
"id": 134,
"name": "af_ghur_principality",
"long_name": "Ghur Principality",
"start_year": 1025,
"end_year": 1215
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Gold amulet boxes, perfumed leather. ‘Despite the civil unrest of 1199, al-Juzjani paints a picture of vibrant, sophisticated urban life at Firuzkuh in its heyday, with court patronage of poets, respect for religious law and theological debates, and the distribution of largesse at festivals and banquets, including gold and silver vessels, embroidered silks, perfumed leather (which Raverty comments must have been ‘extremely valuable in those days’), precious stone (including pearls and diamonds) and slaves acquired during the ‘holy wars’.22 The treasury reputedly contained 400 camel loads of gold in 800 chests, although al-Juzjani’s numbers need to be treated with a degree of scepticism.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GEN89ESZ\">[Thomas_Bennison_Gascoigne 2007, p. 118]</a> ‘With the exception of coins - a relatively abundant if understudied source for Ghurid history and art history - few surviving portable objects can be definitively associated with Ghurid patronage.33 Among them are two unpublished gold amulet boxes ornamented with repoussé harpies and rosettes and inscribed with the names and titles of sultan Ghiyath al-Din in Arabic. The boxes are said to have been found near the minaret of Jam, the assumed site of the Ghurid summer capital, Firzukuh, from whence some carved wooden doors of the same period have also been recovered.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/HPFX2JFT\">[Flood 2009, p. 94]</a> ‘Juzjani also writes of huge quantities of gold in Firuzkuh, the great fort of Baz Kushk-i-Sultan being decorated with gold-inlaid pinnacles and two huge golden birds, while the portico of the congregational mosque was ornamented with a ring, chains and drums of gold. Golden vessels and money were, according to Juzjani, distributed among the population by the Sultan until the whole city was filled with wealth (Juzjani tr. 1881, 403-6). Although these accounts are doubtless wildly exaggerated, they appear to be well known, and we should not underestimate the incentive that such tales can provide for illicit digging in modern times.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/VD7NPQJ9\">[Thomas_Gascoigne_van_Krieken-Pieters 2006, p. 155]</a> ‘’' ‘Despite the civil unrest of 1199, al-Juzjani paints a picture of vibrant, sophisticated urban life at Firuzkuh in its heyday, with court patronage of poets, respect for religious law and theological debates, and the distribution of largesse at festivals and banquets, including gold and silver vessels, embroidered silks, perfumed leather (which Raverty comments must have been ‘extremely valuable in those days’), precious stone (including pearls and diamonds) and slaves acquired during the ‘holy wars’.22 The treasury reputedly contained 400 camel loads of gold in 800 chests, although al-Juzjani’s numbers need to be treated with a degree of scepticism.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GEN89ESZ\">[Thomas_Bennison_Gascoigne 2007, p. 118]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 3,
"polity": {
"id": 350,
"name": "af_greco_bactrian_k",
"long_name": "Greco-Bactrian Kingdom",
"start_year": -256,
"end_year": -125
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Literary papyri. “Among the finds from the Mediterranean area which were made at Ay Khanum we might mention scraps of literary papyri, the stamped handle of an amphora, unique among hundreds and thousands of sherds, some fragments of black glazed pottery and plaster casts taken from metallic vessels of probable Western origin.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/HIB5JTCU\">[Bernard_et_al 1994, p. 122]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 4,
"polity": {
"id": 129,
"name": "af_hephthalite_emp",
"long_name": "Hephthalite Empire",
"start_year": 408,
"end_year": 561
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 72,
"name": "tr_east_roman_emp",
"long_name": "East Roman Empire",
"start_year": 395,
"end_year": 631
},
{
"id": 388,
"name": "in_gupta_emp",
"long_name": "Gupta Empire",
"start_year": 320,
"end_year": 550
},
{
"id": 258,
"name": "cn_northern_wei_dyn",
"long_name": "Northern Wei",
"start_year": 386,
"end_year": 534
},
{
"id": 130,
"name": "ir_sassanid_emp_2",
"long_name": "Sasanid Empire II",
"start_year": 488,
"end_year": 642
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "‘The materials from vaults are diverse and from different time. Items of jewelry are earrings, rings, beads, gold braceles and some others attributed to the 3rd – 7th centuries AD.235’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2CD5KQTU\">[Kurbanov 2010, p. 57]</a> ‘Controlling the Silk Road in its Central Asian part, the Hephthalites took part in world trade, with Iran, Byzantium, India and China. [...] According to the reports from Byzantine, Syrian and Chinese sources, the main trade goods between China and Byzantium were silk, glass, spices, jewels and paints.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2CD5KQTU\">[Kurbanov 2010, p. 91]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 5,
"polity": {
"id": 127,
"name": "af_kushan_emp",
"long_name": "Kushan Empire",
"start_year": 35,
"end_year": 319
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "‘The Begram hoard included footstools, disassembled furniture legs, and large panels from chairs adorned with low-relief decorative ivory and bone carvings, produced somewhere in the Indian subcontinent (the precise location remains unclear). There were also a dozen lacquered boxes and cups manufactured in state and private workshops of Han China, and locally made bronze vessels, in addition to worked ostrich eggs and glazed pottery of unclear provenance. But the most diverse and plentiful group of individual artefacts in this hoard were made in the Roman Empire. Although it is difficult to locate precise places of production within this complex cultural koine through macroscopic observations alone, it seems at least likely that many objects in this group were made in Roman Egypt (Coarelli 1962, 318). Solely for brevity, I hereafter gloss this group as ‘‘Roman objects.’’ The Roman objects comprised almost two hundred glass vessels produced through a diverse manufacturing and decorative techniques, in addition to bronze basins, elaborate bronze ‘‘aquariums’’ with mobile elements, bronze figural balsamaria and figurines, over fifty plaster casts apparently taken from designs on metalwork, and vessels of alabaster, porphyry, and rock crystal.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/X77N72HV\">[Morris_Mairs 2020, p. 580]</a> ‘The Begram hoard included footstools, disassembled furniture legs, and large panelsfrom chairs adorned with low-relief decorative ivory and bone carvings, produced somewhere in the Indian subcontinent (the precise location remains unclear). There were also a dozen lacquered boxes and cups manufactured in state and private workshops of Han China, and locally made bronze vessels, in addition to worked ostrich eggs and glazed pottery of unclear provenance. But the most diverse and plentiful group of individual artefacts in this hoard were made in the Roman Empire. Although it is difficult to locate precise places of production within this complex cultural koine through macroscopic observations alone, it seems at least likely that many objects in this group were made in Roman Egypt (Coarelli 1962, 318). Solely for brevity, I hereafter gloss this group as ‘‘Roman objects.’’ The Roman objects comprised almost two hundred glass vessels produced through a diverse manufacturing and decorative techniques, in addition to bronze basins, elaborate bronze ‘‘aquariums’’ with mobile elements, bronze figural balsamaria and figurines, over fifty plaster casts apparently taken from designs on metalwork, and vessels of alabaster, porphyry, and rock crystal.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/X77N72HV\">[Morris_Mairs 2020, p. 580]</a> ‘Decades before the Greek kingdoms of Central Asia finally began to materialise in the archaeology of Afghanistan, over two hundred objects from the Roman Empire were uncovered during the DAFA’s excavations at the urban site of Begram (1936–1942; 1946). The vast majority of this corpus was found within a hoard of over 400 ornate and unusual objects from far-flung places of production, concealed in two former reception rooms (Rooms 10 and 13) of an erstwhile elite residence at Begram’s “new royal city,” i.e. the southern tepe (Hackin and Hackin 1939 [RAB]; Hackin et al. 1954 [NRAB]). The components of this hoard were perhaps drawn from the possessions of an elite residence and an associated atelier in a moment of danger (MacDowall and Taddei 1978, 257) but never recovered after its abandonment. The remaining objects were recovered from an apparently unsealed room adjacent to the hoard rooms (Room T), which remains only poorly documented in the excavation publications.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/X77N72HV\">[Morris_Mairs 2020, p. 580]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 6,
"polity": {
"id": 409,
"name": "bd_bengal_sultanate",
"long_name": "Bengal Sultanate",
"start_year": 1338,
"end_year": 1538
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "\" E.g. leather goods, high-quality footwear. “The Chinese accounts have references to shoes and slippers made of the skin of sheep and goat. The shoes of rich men and nobles were with golden lace. Barbosa has also referred to the leather shoes and sandals which were very well worked and sewn with silk”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GUN6ITVE\">[Shaikh 2016, p. 37]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 7,
"polity": {
"id": 780,
"name": "bd_chandra_dyn",
"long_name": "Chandra Dynasty",
"start_year": 900,
"end_year": 1050
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Tarafdar himself admits that epigraphic records prepared during Deva, Chandra and Varman rule give no indication of trade, which renders impossible the determination of the extent of commercialisation of the contemporary society.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2SPVKQ8S\">[Thakur 1987, p. 202]</a> “Not a single new commercial centre sprang up in Bengal between the 8th and 13th centuries A.D. and it appears that this region had hardly a place in external trade for at least 500 years.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2SPVKQ8S\">[Thakur 1987, p. 206]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 8,
"polity": {
"id": 781,
"name": "bd_nawabs_of_bengal",
"long_name": "Nawabs of Bengal",
"start_year": 1717,
"end_year": 1757
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 781,
"name": "bd_nawabs_of_bengal",
"long_name": "Nawabs of Bengal",
"start_year": 1717,
"end_year": 1757
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "\" “In the Dhaka National Museum collection there was an ivory mat which was previously owned by the Nawabs of Bengal. They probably procured it from Sylhet. This kind of ivory mat with exquisite carving was also found in the collection of a rich craftsman’s house at Murshidabad which was practically made in Murshidabad during the time of Murshid Quli Khan, the Nawab nazim of Murshidabad. Later on, the art of making of this ivory mat spread out other places near Sylhet like Manipur, Tipperah. In 1903 at Delhi Exhibition Watts and Brown wrote that there were half a dozen mats exhibited some of them made at Murshidabad too”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC9UJWDZ\">[Saha_Choudhury_Ray 2021, p. 877]</a> “Another theory was the influence came from the northern part of India regarding which a story was prevalent among the ivory carvers of Murshidabad that the then Nawab brought an ivory carver from Delhi for preparing an ear-scratcher and a local craftsman secretly learnt the art only by observing him. His son named Tulsi Mistry or Khatumber who was a devout Vaishnav went on pilgrimage to Jaipur, Benares and Vrindavan and learnt ivory carving technique from those areas. G.C. Dutta is somewhat not much convinced with this version of the story”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC9UJWDZ\">[Saha_Choudhury_Ray 2021, p. 878]</a> \" “The ivory carving industry originated in and around Murshidabad as early as the middle of the eighteenth century probably during the reign of Nawab Nazim Alibardi Khan. The industry was influenced by the artwork of other famous centres prevalent at that time like Sylhet, Tipperah, etc. and probably also from Delhi, Jaipur and Odisha. Almost up to the late nineteenth century the industry was very healthy due to the patronization it got not only from the royals but also from European settlers, merchants from other parts of India settled in and around Murshidabad and other famous elite families. There was no shortage of raw materials as there was always an abundance of elephant population in the eastern part of India”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC9UJWDZ\">[Saha_Choudhury_Ray 2021, p. 900]</a> \" “In the Calcutta International Exhibition Report (1883-84) it is found that from Murshidabad some excellent old ivory specimens were lent by elite people from their own family collection like Nawab Ali Kadr Sayyid Husan Ali Bahadur (Last Nawab Nazim of Murshidabad) from Murshidabad, Rai Sitab Chand Rai Bahadur of Azimganj, Maharani Swarnamayi Devi from Kasim Bazar, Raj Bari and Babu Radhika Charan Sen from Berhampore. These royal and elite families were the patrons of ivory work from the good old days and as Walsh said “as the town became less rich and less important, the sale of ivory carving diminished.” In the early twentieth century, most of the descendants of those families were moved from Murshidabad and settled in Calcutta for business purposes, as such, the Murshidabad ivory industry lost its royal and elite patronage and slowly grew as a market-demand based industry”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC9UJWDZ\">[Saha_Choudhury_Ray 2021, p. 883]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 9,
"polity": {
"id": 619,
"name": "bf_west_burkina_faso_red_1",
"long_name": "West Burkina Faso Red I",
"start_year": 701,
"end_year": 1100
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Not mentioned in recent and seemingly comprehensive literature (e.g. Dueppen 2012 <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PCGIB556\">[Dueppen 2012]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 10,
"polity": {
"id": 617,
"name": "bf_west_burkina_faso_red_2",
"long_name": "West Burkina Faso Red II and III",
"start_year": 1100,
"end_year": 1400
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Not mentioned in recent and seemingly comprehensive literature (e.g. Dueppen 2012 <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PCGIB556\">[Dueppen 2012]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 11,
"polity": {
"id": 618,
"name": "bf_west_burkina_faso_red_4",
"long_name": "West Burkina Faso Red IV",
"start_year": 1401,
"end_year": 1500
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Not mentioned in recent and seemingly comprehensive literature (e.g. Dueppen 2012 <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PCGIB556\">[Dueppen 2012]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 12,
"polity": {
"id": 613,
"name": "bf_west_burkina_faso_yellow_5",
"long_name": "West Burkina Faso Yellow I",
"start_year": 100,
"end_year": 500
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Not mentioned in recent and seemingly comprehensive literature (e.g. Dueppen 2012 <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PCGIB556\">[Dueppen 2012]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 13,
"polity": {
"id": 622,
"name": "bf_west_burkina_faso_yellow_6",
"long_name": "West Burkina Faso Yellow II",
"start_year": 501,
"end_year": 700
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Not mentioned in recent and seemingly comprehensive literature (e.g. Dueppen 2012 <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PCGIB556\">[Dueppen 2012]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 14,
"polity": {
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Garments made of bark cloth. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a> Garments made of bark cloth, for example. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 15,
"polity": {
"id": 470,
"name": "cn_hmong_1",
"long_name": "Hmong - Late Qing",
"start_year": 1701,
"end_year": 1895
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "\" “Though scattered across Guizhou, Guizhou, and Anshun, the “Flower Miao” were mainly concentrated in the northwestern Guizhou region and northeastern Yunnan's Zhaotong City during the Ming and Qing dynasties... This disparity stemmed from the Tusi system, prevalent in Yuan, Ming, and early Qing eras. These hereditary rulers, often from other ethnicities, dominated much of Southwest China. By the time the Hmong migrated, existing Tusi systems in Yunnan and Guizhou had already formed powerful political and economic forces. Consequently, the Hmong often found themselves exploited and enslaved within these Tusi regions, relegated to roles like tenant farmers for the Tusi lords... In areas like Xinqu County and Guangshun Prefecture, the Flower Miao, Eastern Miao, Western Miao, and Guyang Miao all suffered under similar burdens, paying rent and performing labor considered comparable to \"commoners,\" pushing them deeper into poverty. By \"commoners,\" we mean the state's registered households and Han Chinese citizens. These Hmong farmers, tilling landlord-owned land like their non-Hmong counterparts, were even worse off than most Han farmers… From 1855-1872, following the lead of Zhang Xiumei and the others, the Hmong in Guizhou and Hunan provinces led a series of rebellions against the Qing dynasty… The Han Chinese landlords, merchants, soldiers, and garrison troops who entered the Hmong areas often used usury to exploit the Hmong peasants… the Hmong peasants were already impoverished. When natural disasters occurred, they were even more miserable. The Hmong epic poems vividly describe this situation.（“花苗”，在遵义、贵阳、安顺地区虽有分布，但明清之际主要集中在黔西北毕节地区和滇东北昭通市地区……由于元明和清初居于土司阶层的多为别的民族，加之云南、贵州不少地区当苗族徙入时，其他民族已经建立了土司制度，形成了较强的政治和经济势力，故苗族在土司地区一般处于被剥削、被奴役的地位。他们多充当土司土目的佃户……新贵县和广顺州一带的“花苗”“东苗”“西苗”“牯羊苗”等，“输租服役，比于良民，故其贫尤甚”。所谓“良民”，即国家的编户齐民和汉族百姓。这些地区的苗民，同他们一样耕种地主土地……比一般汉族农民更为贫困……咸丰五年至同治十一年（1855-1872）……苗族地区，爆发了由张秀眉等人领导的苗族人民起义……在贵州和在湘西一样，进入苗区的汉族地主、奸商、官兵和驻军，掠夺苗族农民的一个主要手段就是放高利贷……苗族农民已穷困不堪，如处水火之中，遇上天灾年荒，就更是饥寒交加，苦楚难言。苗族地区流传的史诗对这种情景有不少生动的记述。）” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IQ69GKQ8\">[Wu 2017, p. 116]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IQ69GKQ8\">[Wu 2017, p. 148]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IQ69GKQ8\">[Wu 2017, p. 150]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IQ69GKQ8\">[Wu 2017, p. 261]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IQ69GKQ8\">[Wu 2017, p. 263]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 16,
"polity": {
"id": 471,
"name": "cn_hmong_2",
"long_name": "Hmong - Early Chinese",
"start_year": 1895,
"end_year": 1941
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "\" “Local Hmong people, Yang Hanxian, who graduated from the Sociology Department of West China University, wrote: \"The Hmong society of Weining in modern times was full of serious ethnic and class contradictions. The Yi ethnic minority landlords, who accounted for a very small number of the population, ruled and oppressed the vast majority of Hmong people... According to Hmong elders in the early 20th century, under the rule of the Yi 'nuo' (landlord),... (the above four classes are all Yi ethnic minorities) and those at the bottom of the society, or called the people under the ground, are the 'Miao (Hmong)'.\" ... In modern times, the feudal landlord system with the nature of slavery still existed in the Wumeng Mountains, and the Hmong tenant farmers were strongly dependent on the Yi ethnic minority landlords. In the Qing Dynasty, historian Zhao Yi served as an official in Shuixi. Based on his own observations, he wrote: \"The relationship between the local officials and the local people is the most severe between master and servant... \"The Hmong people wear clothes that they weave themselves from hemp, coarse hemp and worn cloth. They wear a grass belt around their waists, tie their legs with bandages, and wear straw shoes. The old records say that they \"lack clothes, sleep without beds or bedding, cook without pots and cauldrons, and have no food for the next day at home.\"（当地苗族，华西大学社会学系毕业的杨汉先写道：“近代的威宁苗族社会，充满着严重的民族和阶级的矛盾。占人口极少数的彝族土目地主，统治和压迫着广大的苗族劳苦大众……据二十世纪初期苗族老人说，在彝族’诺’（大地主）的统治下……（上述四等人皆为彝族）而处在最底层的或叫地底下的人，即’苗子’。”近代乌蒙山区还残存着带有奴隶制度性质的封建领主制，苗族佃农的人身强烈地依附于彝族土目地主。清代史学家赵翼在水西为官，以其亲见亲历写道：“凡土官之于土民，其主仆之分最严……”苗族穿的衣服是自己绩麻，粗葛败布自己纺织。腰系草带，腿裹绑带，足登草鞋。旧志说他们“身缺衣覆，寝无床被，炊缺锅釜，家无隔夜之粮。”）” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/VF523UN9\">[Zhang 2009, pp. 25-26]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/VF523UN9\">[Zhang 2009, p. 30]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 17,
"polity": {
"id": 269,
"name": "cn_ming_dyn",
"long_name": "Great Ming",
"start_year": 1368,
"end_year": 1644
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Between the Warring States and the Qin-Han periods, the use of rhinoceros horn was initially used for drinking alcohol... It was probably during the Wei and Jin dynasties or possibly even earlier, as rhinoceroses gradually disappeared from inland China, there emerged a growing trend to mythologize the significance of rhinoceros horns... Rhinoceros horn carvings, due to the rarity of the material, were primarily considered precious art objects, enjoyed by the upper class… In the Ming Dynasty, these carvings predominantly took the form of various inverted cup-like shapes. This design might have been chosen to minimize material wastage, given the high value of rhinoceros horn material. Of particular note are the flower-shaped pedestal cups with branches artfully crafted into circular feet, showcasing intricate designs that characterize rhinoceros horn artifacts during the Ming Dynasty… (战国秦汉间，中原对犀牛并不陌生。犀角的利用最初应与饮酒有关……大约在魏晋或者更早一些，随着犀牛在中国腹地的消失，逐渐产生了神化犀角的倾向……犀角雕刻由于材质本身的难得，基本上是被纳入珍玩系列的，消费对象都是上层人士……大体而言，明代的犀角雕刻器型以各种倒置随形的杯类为多见，或许这样浪费掉的材料会比较少，（毕竟犀角材质的价值很高）特别的是一种枝条圈转成底足的花形圜足杯，设计精巧，为明代犀角器的特殊造型……)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/47ACTJEX\">[Liu 2007, pp. 115-117]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 18,
"polity": {
"id": 1,
"name": "cn_qing_dyn_1",
"long_name": "Early Qing",
"start_year": 1644,
"end_year": 1796
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
},
{
"id": 1,
"name": "cn_qing_dyn_1",
"long_name": "Early Qing",
"start_year": 1644,
"end_year": 1796
},
{
"id": 461,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_2",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Late Bourbon",
"start_year": 1660,
"end_year": 1815
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“The woven ivory silk handheld fan from the Qing Dynasty is sometimes referred to as the \"Ivory Silk Palace Fan\" or the \"Ivory Braided Silk Palace Fan.\" The traditional craftsmanship involves meticulously polishing the ivory silk to achieve a smooth and even texture, followed by skillful weaving to create a certain shape… Ivory has been renowned for centuries due to its exceptional rarity and value. Its fine, dense texture makes it ideal for intricate carving and coloring, making it a prized material for craftsmanship. This particular woven ivory silk handheld fan was specially crafted during the Qianlong era as a tribute gift for the imperial court, honoring a significant occasion… (编织象牙丝执扇在清代也称为“牙丝宫扇”和“象牙拔丝宫扇”。它的一般制作过程是先把象牙丝打磨得光滑匀称，然后再将其编织成固定的形状……自古象牙都因它极其稀少珍贵而闻名，象牙其质地细密坚韧便于雕刻，亦可染色，从而它又是一种名贵的工艺用料。这件编织象牙丝执扇是在乾隆年间为向朝廷进献寿礼而特意制作的……)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UQWD5RK7\">[Li_Ding 2005, p. 323]</a> “Emperor Yongzheng once gifted a pair of self-striking clocks to Nian Gengyao, who expressed his gratitude in his memorial to the throne: “ it left me utterly speechless, unable to find the right words to express my overwhelming joy.” By the time of Emperor Qianlong's rule, Western clocks had gained considerable recognition within Chinese society. The imperial court, capitalizing on its political and economic advantages, collected a vast amount of clocks and even ventured into local clock production. Meanwhile, among merchants, scholars, and common people, these timepieces were held in high regard, leading to a thriving market…Among the more than a thousand timepieces preserved in the Qing palace, some were locally crafted, while others were imported from Europe, including the UK, France, and Switzerland. These Western clocks found their way into the palace as gifts from missionaries, government acquisitions from overseas, purchases by local officials from foreign traders, and custom-made pieces tailored to the emperor and empress's tastes. Under the guidance and involvement of missionaries, the Qing court's clockmaking department gradually developed its own craftsmanship and distinctive style… Goods from England... the majority of which were produced in the 18th century... predominantly crafted from gold-plated copper materials... During the Qianlong period, the Qing court's clockmaking department reached its peak, both in terms of quantity and quality… Emperor Qianlong, driven by his personal preferences, was willing to spend lots of money and frequently ordered officials to acquire clocks that caught his eye, saying, \"If you find more that are as pleasing as these, obtain several, and if you come across larger, more exquisite ones, acquire them as well, regardless of the cost.\" (雍正皇帝曾把一对自鸣表赏赐给年羹尧，在年羹尧的谢恩折中以“喜极感激，而不能措一词”来表达自己激动的心情。到了乾隆年间，西洋钟表在中国社会已有一定的认知度——宫廷利用自己政治经济的优势大量收藏、制作，而民间的商贾、文人对此更是视若珍宝，大力求购……在清宫留存的一千余件钟表中有中国制造的，也有来自欧洲（如英国、法国、瑞士等）的产品。这些西洋钟表或为传教士进献，或为清政府从国外购买，或为地方官员从洋商手中购得后再进贡宫中，也有根据帝后的喜好专门订制。而在传教士的指导与参与下清宫做钟处也逐渐形成了自己的钟表制作工艺与风格……来自英国的产品……大部分为十八世纪制造……大部分为铜镀金材质……乾隆时期，清宫做钟处的钟表制作达到了鼎盛，数量和质量相比于之前都有提高……乾隆皇帝为了自己的喜好，不惜重金，经常下旨给官员：“似此样好看者多觅几件，再有大而好者，亦觅几件，不必惜价。”)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/X5EV4H8T\">[Qi 2018, pp. 104-105]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/X5EV4H8T\">[Qi 2018, p. 113]</a> “(Item 186: )Ivory Mat - This mat is crafted by splitting ivory into thin strips, as fine as bamboo slivers, each less than 0.3cm wide, and then weaving them together… serving as a royal accessory, and during the early years of the Qing Dynasty, officials from Guangdong often presented it as a tribute to the Emperor… (象牙席 是用象牙劈成薄如竹篾、宽不足0.3cm的扁平象牙条编成……为皇帝的御用品。清雍正至乾隆初年，广东官员屡有贡品……)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7JIG96VT\">[Wan_Wang_Lu 2014, p. 132]</a> “Gu Pengnian, who served in the \"Ruyi Pavilion\" due to Emperor Qianlong's appreciation, was entrusted with numerous tasks, such as leading a team of ivory craftsmen to create twelve decorative screens using ivory based on a drawing by the artist Jin Kun… (进入“如意馆”服务的顾彭年，因为受到清高宗的赏识，一再受命执行活计成做之任务，例如：他曾带领牙作中的牙匠在“如意馆”照画画人金昆的画稿用象牙堆做十二副围屏……)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DMUCNHU5\">[Ji 2015, p. 483]</a> “Ivory fans gifted to the palace were used by the Emperor and his concubines if they met the Emperor's expectation. However, if the Emperor wasn't satisfied with them, they were sent to the Qing Palace Workshops for adjustments. It is said that this valuable woven ivory silk handheld fan was one of the gifts presented to the imperial family during that time and was highly cherished by Emperor Qianlong. (送入宫中的象牙扇如果符合皇上心意就由皇上和各妃妾使用，倘如果皇帝不满意的话就送到清宫造办处重新改造。据说这柄珍贵的编织象牙丝执扇就是当时由人进献给皇室的，其很受乾隆的喜爱。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UQWD5RK7\">[Li_Ding 2005, p. 323]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 19,
"polity": {
"id": 2,
"name": "cn_qing_dyn_2",
"long_name": "Late Qing",
"start_year": 1796,
"end_year": 1912
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 2,
"name": "cn_qing_dyn_2",
"long_name": "Late Qing",
"start_year": 1796,
"end_year": 1912
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“The woven ivory silk handheld fan from the Qing Dynasty is sometimes referred to as the \"Ivory Silk Palace Fan\" or the \"Ivory Braided Silk Palace Fan.\" The traditional craftsmanship involves meticulously polishing the ivory silk to achieve a smooth and even texture, followed by skillful weaving to create a certain shape… Ivory has been renowned for centuries due to its exceptional rarity and value. Its fine, dense texture makes it ideal for intricate carving and coloring, making it a prized material for craftsmanship. (编织象牙丝执扇在清代也称为“牙丝宫扇”和“象牙拔丝宫扇”。它的一般制作过程是先把象牙丝打磨得光滑匀称，然后再将其编织成固定的形状……自古象牙都因它极其稀少珍贵而闻名，象牙其质地细密坚韧便于雕刻，亦可染色，从而它又是一种名贵的工艺用料。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UQWD5RK7\">[Li_Ding 2005, p. 323]</a> “Every year, a continuous flow of exquisite ivory carvings and practical items is generously contributed from various southern provinces to the palace. These offerings include finely woven ivory mats as delicate as gossamer, fans adorned with intricate ivory threading, and pristine, elaborately carved ivory flower baskets, lanterns, sachets, and more…The carved ivory dressing box featuring intricate flower patterns, dating from the mid to late Qing Dynasty, was exclusively used by the palace's consorts… it stands as a remarkable masterpiece crafted by artisans from Guangzhou during the Qing Dynasty. (每年尚有大量精美的牙雕工艺品和生活实用品接连不断地从南方各省贡献进宫，例如薄如蔑片、细如竹丝的编织象牙席、牙丝团扇以及洁白华美的镂空象牙花篮、灯笼、香囊等……象牙雕花镜奁，制作于清代中晚期，是供宫中后妃专用的梳装奁……是清代广州工匠的一件艺术杰作。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FMRN2XQG\">[Liu 1986, p. 18]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FMRN2XQG\">[Liu 1986, p. 20]</a> “(Item 186: )Ivory Mat - This mat is crafted by splitting ivory into thin strips, as fine as bamboo slivers, each less than 0.3cm wide, and then weaving them together… serving as a royal accessory. (象牙席 是用象牙劈成薄如竹篾、宽不足0.3cm的扁平象牙条编成……为皇帝的御用品。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7JIG96VT\">[Wan_Wang_Lu 2014, p. 132]</a> “In addition to Yang Xiu, another significant ivory craftsman in the \"Ruyi Pavilion\" during the Jiaqing era was Mo Chengji. His name appeared twice in the \"Account of Crafts\" in the fifteenth year of Jiaqing (1810), and three more times until the end of the Jiaqing period. Records even exist of his designs and the crafting of ivory pieces into the early Daoguang period... He was commissioned to create three ivory screens, including the \"Sanyang Kaitai,\" \"Jiulao Zhushou,\" and \"Shoushan Fu Hai\" ivory table plaques, all produced according to specific instructions. (楊秀之外，莫成紀是嘉慶朝「如意館」中另一位重要的牙匠，他的名字於嘉慶十五年(1810)兩度出現在《活計檔》後，至嘉慶末年止又出現三次，降及道光初期仍有他畫樣、成做象牙活計的記載……奉旨照樣准做，計有三陽開泰五穀豐登象牙插屏、九老祝壽象牙插屏與壽山福海象牙插屏。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DMUCNHU5\">[Ji 2015, p. 493]</a> “Ivory fans gifted to the palace were used by the Emperor and his concubines if they met the Emperor's expectation. However, if the Emperor wasn't satisfied with them, they were sent to the Qing Palace Workshops for adjustments. (送入宫中的象牙扇如果符合皇上心意就由皇上和各妃妾使用，倘如果皇帝不满意的话就送到清宫造办处重新改造。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UQWD5RK7\">[Li_Ding 2005, p. 323]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 20,
"polity": {
"id": 268,
"name": "cn_yuan_dyn",
"long_name": "Great Yuan",
"start_year": 1271,
"end_year": 1368
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "\" “The clock was about six or seven feet high and half as wide. It was made of wood and had a number of hidden pots inside that carried water up and down. The clock was topped by a temple dedicated to the Three Holy Ones of the Western Paradise. At the waist of the clock stood a jade maiden holding a time-keeping tally. When the time came, she would float up to the surface of the water. On either side of the clock stood two golden armored figures, one holding a bell and the other a gong. At night, the figures would strike the bell and gong on their own, without the slightest deviation. When the bell and gong rang, the lions and phoenixes standing by would all dance. To the west and east of the clock were sun and moon palaces, with six flying immortals standing before them. At the hour of the rat and the hour of the dragon, the flying immortals would advance on their own, cross the bridge of immortals, and reach the temple of the Three Holy Ones. Then they would return and stand in their original positions. The clock was so exquisitely made that it was said to be unparalleled in previous dynasties.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Z4AAARHG\">[Song 1977]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 21,
"polity": {
"id": 435,
"name": "co_neguanje",
"long_name": "Neguanje",
"start_year": 250,
"end_year": 1050
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“In addition, cooking and drinking vessels, as well as polished stone axes, carnelian and quartz beads, and gold objects intentionally deposited during phases of rebuilding, most probably as part of propitiatory and protective events linked to new structures, were also recovered.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/26S6WDDP\">[Giraldo 2010, p. 34]</a> “More than 8,000 beads were recovered from the burial, along with carved jadeite figurines, gold earrings, bracelets, breast plates, figurines, and fine pottery vessels.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/26S6WDDP\">[Giraldo 2010, p. 52]</a> “A stone lined tomb was located in the northeastern quadrant of the structure and a number of objects collected from within it, including several stone axeheads, beads, and gold fragments. More stone axeheads of red and green stone were found above the grave along with a fine black ware vessel containing a green stone ornament and two pottery whistles. A treasure jar found at the foot of the grave contained two monolithic stone axes. Green stone ornaments were also found in another treasure jar along with polished stone batons, four water worn pebbles, and two quartz crystals. More vessels were found scattered throughout the soil. One contained beads, another had long, tubular carnelian beads, and a small fluted pot contained more unshaped pebbles. An additional thirty axeheads were found scattered in the soil, along with fragments from two gold earrings, a monkey shaped figurine, more quartz crystals and another monolithic axe.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3SHVC64G\">[Oyuela-Caycedo_Silverman_Isbell 2008, p. 155]</a> “This building was also excavated by Alden Mason (1931: 90-93, site XXIX), finding a stone lined tomb with numerous grave goods, among them a great quantity of axeheads and carnelian beads found within the tomb's soil. In addition, seven pottery vessels containing varying quantities of winged stone pendants, beads, gold and copper bracelets, and two limestone matrices used for beating gold were recovered. Two curved “walls” or rows of upright slabs placed diagonally were also found. According to Alden Mason (1931: 91), a sterile layer of soil was found 150 centimeters below the surface, which apparently coincides with the plaza level.19 The amount and quality of the grave goods, as well as the type of tomb and its location indicate that this was a high status or elite burial. The upper layer of soil was also laced with carnelian beads, as were the caps of the grave and the areas surrounding the slabs, intentionally placed throughout the terrace when it was built up (Mason 1931: 93).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/26S6WDDP\">[Giraldo 2010, pp. 165-166]</a> “A stone lined grave was found at the center of the structure, below it a large tray and a cooking vessel, the latter containing polished green stone pendant. Two small vessels of fine black ware containing beads of different sizes were found associated to the grave. A fluted fine black ware vessel containing stones, 4 or 5 axe heads and a pottery stamp was also found below a circular marking stone. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/26S6WDDP\">[Giraldo 2010, p. 204]</a> “Otros ejemplos serían los siguientes: en las excavaciones hallamos pequeñísimas piedras de moler, junto con cuentas de collar rotas, y con trocitos de otras piedras rojas. Entre los Kogi estos objetos están aún en uso; ciertos guijarros o cuentas se muelen y pulverizan y el polvo simboliza \"comida\" para los espíritus o seres divinos. También se encuentran diminutos bancos de piedra, idénticos a los que usan los actuales sacerdotes y chamanes en sus ritos, imitando los bancos en que se sientan estas personas durante ciertas ocasiones. Otros objetos arqueológicos son placas delgadas, en forma de alas, hechas de piedra finamente pulida. Se pensó que se trataba de un adorno, llevado suspendido del cuello, pero resultó que algunos sacerdotes kogi aún poseen estos objetos y que se trata de instrumentos musicales; suspendidas en pares, de los codos de un bailarín, que tiene los brazos levemente levantados, estas placas sonajeras producen un tintineo melódico y aún se usan en la actualidad en ciertas ceremonias. [...] Otros artefactos rituales, muy finamente tallados de piedra, son las hachas monolíticas en que tanto la hoja como el cabo están esculpidos de una sola pieza, de unos 20 a 45 centímetros de largo. También hay objetos en forma de espátula alargada, tal vez insignias de mando o de rango, el extremo superior de las cuales muestra a veces una talla zoomorfa. [...] Una gran máscara de piedra, representación de una cara humana con lengua saliente, procede del alto río Córdoba30. Una figura acurrucada y esquelética, de 24.5 centímetros de altura, fue encontrada en las riberas de la Quebrada Valencia (río Don Diego), al pie de la vertiente septentrional de la Sierra Nevada31.” RA Translation: “Other examples would be the following: during the excavations we found very small grinding stones, along with broken necklace beads, and with pieces of other red stones. Among the Kogi these objects are still in use; certain pebbles or beads are ground and pulverised and the powder symbolises \"food\" for spirits or divine beings. There are also tiny stone benches, identical to those used by current priests and shamans in their rites, imitating the benches on which these people sit during certain occasions. Other archaeological objects are thin, wing-shaped plates made of finely polished stone. It was thought that it was an ornament, worn suspended from the neck, but it turned out that some Kogi priests still possess these objects and that they are musical instruments; suspended in pairs from the elbows of a dancer, whose arms are slightly raised, these rattle plates produce a melodic tinkling sound and are still used today in certain ceremonies. [...] Other ritual artefacts, very finely carved from stone, are the monolithic axes in which both the blade and the shaft are sculpted in a single piece, about 20 to 45 centimetres long. There are also objects in the shape of an elongated spatula, perhaps insignia of command or rank, the upper end of which sometimes shows a zoomorphic carving. [...] A large stone mask, representing a human face with a protruding tongue, comes from the upper Córdoba River30. A curled up and skeletal figure, 24.5 centimetres high, was found on the banks of the Valencia ravine (Don Diego River), at the foot of the northern slope of the Sierra Nevada31.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2TKDVRGN\">[Reichel-Dolmatoff 2016, pp. 167-169]</a> “En varios sitios de la costa septentrional y también en el litoral al sur de Santa Marta, se han hallado grandes urnas funerarias, a veces con objetos metálicos dentro o pequeñas tallas de concha o de hueso.” RA Translation: “In several places on the northern coast and also on the coast south of Santa Marta, large funerary urns have been found, sometimes with metal objects inside or small shell or bone carvings.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2TKDVRGN\">[Reichel-Dolmatoff 2016, p. 171]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 22,
"polity": {
"id": 196,
"name": "ec_shuar_1",
"long_name": "Shuar - Colonial",
"start_year": 1534,
"end_year": 1830
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 196,
"name": "ec_shuar_1",
"long_name": "Shuar - Colonial",
"start_year": 1534,
"end_year": 1830
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“During the nineteenth century, Euro-colonial valuation of tsantsas as a curio-style keepsake drove a new economy where these artifacts had significant monetary value. Tsantsa owners were willing to trade their post-ceremony tsantsas after their power had already been transferred. Because ceremonial tsantsas were produced by a distinct cultural group, authentic artifacts share a common suite of attributes associated with traditional production methods.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ47RPKG\">[Byron_et_al 2021, p. 2]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 23,
"polity": {
"id": 197,
"name": "ec_shuar_2",
"long_name": "Shuar - Ecuadorian",
"start_year": 1831,
"end_year": 1931
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 197,
"name": "ec_shuar_2",
"long_name": "Shuar - Ecuadorian",
"start_year": 1831,
"end_year": 1931
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“By the mid-twentieth century, the colonization of Amazonian culture groups by their incorporation into larger regional states, mostly ended all tsantsa production associated with human remains, representing a significant shift in the social dynamics of the Shuar people [16].” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ47RPKG\">[Byron_et_al 2021, p. 2]</a> “In the 1880s, Euro-Ecuadorians came down from the highlands in search of cinchona bark. Some settled in Macas (the sole remaining Euro-American settlement from the 17th century) while others formed new settlements. As the game population decreased, forest-dwelling Shuar sought new technologies to intensify food production. Settlers occasionally exchanged manufactured goods such as machetes and shotguns (useful for food production; Harner 1984:196-199) in return for Shuar labor or forest products: pigs, deer, salt-and tsantsas.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4F7FU5C3\">[Rubenstein 2007, pp. 365-366]</a> “Throughout this century Shuar men have sought and received machetes and shotguns from Ecuadorian traders and missionaries.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QDVNW6X5\">[Rubenstein 1993, p. 3]</a> “There are still tribes in the upper Amazon who use stone axes. I have even seen them in the hands of the Jivaros and to watch a man pounding away at a big tree with such a crude weapon, takes one’s thoughts back a good many thousand years. [...] Other ornaments of importance which must receive attention are the ear-tubes, or “arusa” which are made of straight pieces of cane passing through the lobe of the ear. They have a saying that when wearing these, they fear no danger. Supernatural properties are ascribed to the ear-tubes in the same way that necklaces of jaguars’ teeth and bands of snakes’ skins are supposed to endow the wearer with the ferocity and cunning of the respective animals. [...] For our entertainment, Kuashu displayed a basketful of trophies which he had collected at one time or another. Amongst them we noticed a couple of reduced heads, one of a sloth, the other that of a man.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MF532MK2\">[Dyott 1926, pp. 182-188]</a> “We obtained a couple of these weapons. They were made of hard Chonta palm roughly hewn and ornamented with feathers. One of the characteristics of this war-like tribe, called Aukas by our men, was that when seeking the life of a human being, they ornamented their spears with feathers, and once a body had been impaled, the spear was never withdrawn.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MF532MK2\">[Dyott 1926, pp. 232-233]</a> “There were piles of round earthenware brick-red pots. Stone hatchets fitted with wooden handles lay about. Paraphernalia for making fire was stowed away in a corner. Roughly made blow-guns were lying on the cross-beams. A small quantity of masata was stored in one of the pots.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/H2GCD3XI\">[Up_de_Graff 1923, pp. 89-90]</a> “These newcomers are frequently women, olive-skinned, black-eyed, with long black hair, barefoot and bare-headed, clad in the skirt and blouse with which civilization has decked them out. They are heavily decorated with necklaces of monkeys’ teeth, trade-beads, and a few feather ornaments.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/H2GCD3XI\">[Up_de_Graff 1923, p. 147]</a> “The process is painfully slow, owing to the crude tools at the command of this Stone Age people; metals, except gold, are absolutely unknown to them; their axes are of stone, their chisels are of animal’s teeth, and the only substitute for the file and the plane which is known to them is sand, with which they get a wonderful finish to their work.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/H2GCD3XI\">[Up_de_Graff 1923, p. 198]</a> “Each carried with him a new loin-cloth, a rouge-pot, feather ear-ornaments, a záparo (rattan basket—Inca) of giamanchi, a spear, and a half gourd for a drinking-cup. Some had blow-guns with them also. [...] The savages with their new loin-cloths, rouged faces, tufts of lumbiqui feathers (red and yellow balls of fluff) in their ears, looked a formidable company.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/H2GCD3XI\">[Up_de_Graff 1923, pp. 253-268]</a> “While speaking of the food supply, I will add a word or two about that deadly weapon, the blow-gun, which is the only means the Jivaros have of procuring meat. These “guns” are about ten feet long, with a bore of about ¼ inch, and an outside diameter of some two inches at the mouthpiece, tapering to ¾ inch at the “muzzle.” [...] The ingenuity that the Jivaros display in the manu- facture of these weapons with the primitive implements at their command is worthy of attention, for the finished article could not be turned out any better by a modern factory. What machinery in the world could better over- come the mechanical difficulties of producing a perfectly true % inch bore ten feet in length than do these simple people? [...] The wood used is the same as that employed for making spears, and it is known in Inca as chonta. In grain and colour it resembles ebony, but is much heavier and harder. It belongs to the palm family and bears good fruit. Then by means of the crude tools they have—flints, stones, animals’ teeth and shells—a groove is scraped in each piece ¼ inch wide and ½ inch deep. [...] The “gun” is tightly wound with green bark tapes (about half an inch in width) from end to end. On this binding is melted black bees’ wax (taken from an insect which builds its hive in the ground, and produces a honey which is used for medicinal purposes) which is smoothed over with hot stones and forced into the cracks so as to perfect the surface; next, another layer of bark tapes, slightly thinner, is bound on, and more bees’ wax (a heavier coat this time) is applied; the final step in the finishing of the exterior is a second treatment with hot stones, which produces a hard, even surface. Then the completed weapon is a perfectly straight, round, tapered black tube. [...] Grouped at the door under the shade of a pántam (banana plant—Jivaro) are half a dozen women making baskets. They manipulate the split rat- tans with ease and dexterity, weaving intricate patterns, and producing baskets of great strength. They are made in pairs, one set slightly smaller than the other; the larger is then lined with a specially tough palm-leaf and the smaller is placed inside it. The two are then sewn together round the top, and a cover, com- posed of another pair of baskets is hinged to the first.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/H2GCD3XI\">[Up_de_Graff 1923, pp. 210-221]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 24,
"polity": {
"id": 367,
"name": "eg_ayyubid_sultanate",
"long_name": "Ayyubid Sultanate",
"start_year": 1171,
"end_year": 1250
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 367,
"name": "eg_ayyubid_sultanate",
"long_name": "Ayyubid Sultanate",
"start_year": 1171,
"end_year": 1250
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Metalwork including inlaid metalwork; tiles; manuscripts; perfume; make-up. “[Referring to Tamta, Ayyubid Wife of al-Ashraf Musa] Tamta’s marriage also placed her at the heart of the court, the richest and most cosmopolitan element of society. The Ayyubid court, through its expenditure on luxury goods and palaces, was able to translate its interests in poetry, music, hunting and science into material objects - inlaid metalwork, glazed tiles, illuminated manuscripts”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SSSSMMNG\">[Eastmond 2017, p. 172]</a> “We can see the impact of this [the presence of Christians in Muslim courts] on art more traditionally associated with Islamic patrons, particularly brass and ceramic vessels commissioned from within the Ayyubid court in the 1230s and 1240s. The usual repertoire of images on these vessels concerned secular themes…but some have more unusual iconographies that show an awareness of Christian art”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SSSSMMNG\">[Eastmond 2017, p. 221]</a> “…the short Ayyubid period (1171-1250) is commemorated by some remarkable and varied pieces of inlaid metalwork, often with novel features. Foremost among them is the use of Christian motifs, including New Testament scenes and, within arcading, figures of ecclesiastics and saints testifying to the relationship between the Latin states and the Ayyubids or to the presence of Christians in high positions at the Sunni Muslim court. One example is the so-called Arenberg Basin made for the Ayyubid Sultan of Cairo and Damascus al-Malik al-Salih Ayyub (r. 1239-49)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/EJJMSW8D\">[Ettinghausen_Grabar_Jenkins 2001, p. 248]</a> “Syria’s metalworking tradition also witnessed a revival during the Atabeg and Ayyubid periods. Military costumes and ceremonial attire would have featured important metallic artwork, offering a glimpse of aristocratic fashion…By far the most exquisite art of the period is the inlaid metalwork…The techniques used for inlaid metalwork were highly valued skills. Expert inlay artisans used silver, gold and copper on brass items - such as ewers, bowls and candlesticks - and, in order to highlight the contrast of the different colour metals, they delineated them with black niello [a black mixture, usually of sulphur, copper, silver, and lead]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/53A8W2KU\">[Abdal-Razzaq_et_al 2015]</a> “Libraries and books were crucial as part of the cultural, scientific and religious revival in Syria. Workshops for paper production (warraqat) and trade in paper were important features of Damascus’s suqs [markets] especially the well-known Suq al-Warraqin next to the Great Umayyad Mosque…Paper as artwork, however, finds its finest expression in manuscripts sponsored by rulers…The Ayyubid princes themselves were well-educated and cultured, sponsoring important manuscripts and even composing them, as can be seen by the geographical encyclopedia written by Abu al-Fida’, the Ayyubid ruler of Hama”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/53A8W2KU\">[Abdal-Razzaq_et_al 2015]</a> “Techniques in enamelled and gilded glass were highly developed in 6th-/12th-century Syria, particularly in the Raqqa region. The decorative repertoire was wide, including gilded and enamelled cups for courtly settings, striped, marvered and moulded glass bottles and jars for perfume and kohl…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/53A8W2KU\">[Abdal-Razzaq_et_al 2015]</a> Metalwork. “…the bulk of goods came over shorter distances, including ceramics, metalwork and textiles. Excavations from the major Mqargrdzeli city of Dvin have found evidence for the extensive import of glazed ceramics from Iran and glass from Aleppo and Damascus, and from Rustavi in Georgia. The city also had its own local manufacturing expertise”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SSSSMMNG\">[Eastmond 2017, p. 160]</a> “Under the Ayyubids, Syria became the leader in the manufacture of both luxury objects and the less expensive and sophisticated works made for the middle class and the bazaars. Metalwork, glass, and ceramics - the three principal media - were all produced there”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DXCZCCUC\">[Ekhtiar 2011, pp. 137-138]</a> Metalwork; manuscripts. “…the short Ayyubid period (1171-1250) is commemorated by some remarkable and varied pieces of inlaid metalwork…One example is the so-called Arenberg Basin made for the Ayyubid Sultan of Cairo and Damascus al-Malik al-Salih Ayyub (r. 1239-49)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/EJJMSW8D\">[Ettinghausen_Grabar_Jenkins 2001, p. 248]</a> “…during the reign of the Atabeg Badr al-Din Lu’lu’ (607-657/1211-1259)…well-known for his love of metal inlaid objects and lavishly commissioned such pieces…Paper as artwork…finds its finest expression in manuscripts sponsored by rulers…The Ayyubid princes themselves were well-educated and cultured, sponsoring important manuscripts and even composing them, as can be seen by the geographical encyclopaedia written by Abu al-Fida’, the Ayyubid ruler of Hama”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/53A8W2KU\">[Abdal-Razzaq_et_al 2015]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 25,
"polity": {
"id": 521,
"name": "eg_kushite",
"long_name": "Egypt - Kushite Period",
"start_year": -747,
"end_year": -656
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 521,
"name": "eg_kushite",
"long_name": "Egypt - Kushite Period",
"start_year": -747,
"end_year": -656
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Ivory goods; animal skins; perfume; make-up; oils; beads made of organics and man-made materials. “The Kushite trade in African luxury goods (ivory, animals, plants) will be referred to in later chapters”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/J9FB64ZQ\">[Torok 2015, p. 35]</a> “[With reference to excavations at the site of Meroë and the finding of tiny jars] These enigmatic little vessels are only found in association with temples. They appear to have held something like perfume or kohl (antimony) but there is no residue. ”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XMK5MVCH\">[Shinnie_Bradley 1980, p. 122]</a> “[Referencing trade relations between sub-Saharan Africa and the late Kush Kingdom, and the Roman Empire] As intermediaries between Africa and the Mediterranean, the late Kushite monarchs exchanged animal skins, ebony, ivory, gold, oils, perfumes, and slaves for Roman goods”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3SBFJU6X\">[Wallech_et_al 2013, pp. 68-69]</a> “[Referring to beads and pendant finds from graves in the Meroitic cemetery at Berber] The recovered beads…and pendants…are made of organics (ostrich eggshell, bone)…and made-made materials (glazed composition/faience...). […] The Berber collection contains four ostrich-eggshell beads…and six tiny wedge-shaped pendants made of the same material…This shape was usually reserved for glass or stone materials. The use of ostrich eggshell in the manufacture of these tiny pendants is rather surprising and there are no parallels as yet. In contrast to the Napatan period, ostrich-eggshell beads are rare finds in Meroitic bead assemblages…One long tubular bead is made of bone…possibly the phalanx of an animal. […] Faience beads, numbering almost 1,130, constitute half of the Berber assemblage…In general, all the faience bead types are well known in Nubian Meroitic assemblages… […] At Berber, none of the graves in which ostrich-eggshell disc beads were found could be dated. A surprising use of ostrich eggshell at Meroitic Berber was to form unusual wedge-shaped pendants”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/32AMNQZX\">[Then-Obluska 2018, pp. 32-34]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/32AMNQZX\">[Then-Obluska 2018, p. 41]</a> Ivory goods; animal skins; perfume; make-up; oils “The Kushite trade in African luxury goods (ivory, animals, plants) will be referred to in later chapters”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/J9FB64ZQ\">[Torok 2015, p. 35]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 26,
"polity": {
"id": 239,
"name": "eg_mamluk_sultanate_3",
"long_name": "Egypt - Mamluk Sultanate III",
"start_year": 1412,
"end_year": 1517
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Alongside the epigraphic textiles of Dar al-Tiraz, the major emblematic gift items given by the sultans that constantly figure in historical accounts were luxurious arms and armour, and horses with lavish trappings, notably golden and bejewelled saddles upholstered with velvet and silk.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AXH6NK7D\">[Behrens-Abouseif 2016, p. 15]</a> “This sultan, who had a pronounced taste for ceremonial pomp, used to ride in processions, as he did on his return from a visit to Alexandria and on his departure to Aleppo to fight the Ottomans, accompanied by horsemen on saddles adorned with gold and crystal or studded with carnelian and other gemstones.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AXH6NK7D\">[Behrens-Abouseif 2016, p. 16]</a> “Golden saddles with brocade and velvet upholstery belonged to the sultan’s and the caliph’s attire, and to the insignia bestowed by the sultan on his emirs and prominent guests. Unlike the robes of honour, which only the sultan could bestow, the saddle was a gift that emirs frequently offered to the sultan. Mamluk chroniclers usually refer to a brocaded caparison (kanbush zarkash) accompanying the saddle, the two items forming a ceremonial set.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AXH6NK7D\">[Behrens-Abouseif 2016, p. 16]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 27,
"polity": {
"id": 203,
"name": "eg_saite",
"long_name": "Egypt - Saite Period",
"start_year": -664,
"end_year": -525
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 203,
"name": "eg_saite",
"long_name": "Egypt - Saite Period",
"start_year": -664,
"end_year": -525
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "High-quality metal, wood, ivory and stone goods; ornaments. “…bronze…became a particular[ly?] important medium of artistic production in Egypt during the Third Intermediate and Saite Periods and the standard of artefacts produced was high…There were further developments [in bronze work] during the Saite Period such as lead now being routinely added to the copper which lowered the melting point, increased fluidity and reduced porosity. The increased fluidity allowed more complex shapes with finer detail to be case in one piece, with some excellent examples of large and miniature bronzes being created. […] Imports to Egypt comprised commodities such as metals, wood…while exports included…manufactured goods, such as amulets, scarabs…Long-distance trade and exchange, still a royal monopoly, also continued with Nubia as it had throughout much of Pharaonic history, although specific evidence for the Saite Period is not strong. Traditional luxury items such as gold, ebony and ivory would have continued to be in demand and the Nubians were the traditional agents for procurement of such items”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8TBVWFGD\">[Forshaw 2019, p. 166]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8TBVWFGD\">[Forshaw 2019, pp. 184-185]</a> “[Referring to core-formed products such as alabasta or alabaster vessels, probably made in Syria, Palestine and Cyprus] Others were imported into Egypt, where a renaissance in all branches of the arts took place during the Saite Twenty-Sixth Dynasty (c.664-525 BC)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/BFBHXP5G\">[Davison_Newton 2008, p. 21]</a> High-quality metal, wood, ivory and stone goods; ornaments. “…bronze…became a particular[ly?] important medium of artistic production in Egypt during the Third Intermediate and Saite Periods… […] Imports to Egypt comprised commodities such as metals, wood…while exports included…manufactured goods, such as amulets, scarabs…Long-distance trade and exchange, still a royal monopoly, also continued with Nubia as it had throughout much of Pharaonic history, although specific evidence for the Saite Period is not strong. Traditional luxury items such as gold, ebony and ivory would have continued to be in demand and the Nubians were the traditional agents for procurement of such items”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8TBVWFGD\">[Forshaw 2019, p. 166]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8TBVWFGD\">[Forshaw 2019, pp. 184-185]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 28,
"polity": {
"id": 647,
"name": "er_medri_bahri",
"long_name": "Medri Bahri",
"start_year": 1310,
"end_year": 1889
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "‘‘‘ Based on the literature consulted, Eritrean history appears to be especially obscure. No information could be found on the topic of trade or consumption habits in Eritrea in any era before the late 19th century. Anything that doesn't fall under the other variables.",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 29,
"polity": {
"id": 84,
"name": "es_spanish_emp_1",
"long_name": "Spanish Empire I",
"start_year": 1516,
"end_year": 1715
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 84,
"name": "es_spanish_emp_1",
"long_name": "Spanish Empire I",
"start_year": 1516,
"end_year": 1715
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Metal (including iron), leather and other luxury manufactured goods i.e. lacquered and ivory goods; candles. “[Referring to the role of foreign bankers in controlling particular commodities during the Spanish Empire] The Cortes at Valladolid in 1548 protested that: ‘a consequence of Your Majesty’s [Charles V] loans in Germany and Italy is that a great number of foreigners have come here. They are not satisfied just with their profits from banking…but are buying up all the…iron, leather and other goods’”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R6DHVMR5\">[Kamen 2003, p. 89]</a> “[Referring to the heyday of the Spanish Empire]…Lady Ann Fanshawe, wife of the British ambassador [was impressed during the mid-1660s] with the…lacquered or ivory cabinets from India or Japan. […] The huge consumption of candles in processions and illuminations of houses during fiestas demanded an abundant supply of wax, and considerable attention is devoted in the pages of Viciana (1563-4) to an inventory of the beehives scattered over the kingdom of Valencia”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PAHMG3MR\">[Casey 1999, p. 6]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PAHMG3MR\">[Casey 1999, p. 54]</a> Lacquered and ivory goods; candles. “[Referring to the heyday of the Spanish Empire]…Lady Ann Fanshawe, wife of the British ambassador [was impressed during the mid-1660s] with the…lacquered or ivory cabinets from India or Japan. […] The huge consumption of candles in processions and illuminations of houses during fiestas demanded an abundant supply of wax, and considerable attention is devoted in the pages of Viciana (1563-4) to an inventory of the beehives scattered over the kingdom of Valencia”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PAHMG3MR\">[Casey 1999, p. 6]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PAHMG3MR\">[Casey 1999, p. 54]</a> Metal (including iron), leather and other luxury manufactured goods i.e. lacquered and ivory goods. “[Referring to the role of foreign bankers in controlling particular commodities during the Spanish Empire] The Cortes at Valladolid in 1548 protested that: ‘a consequence of Your Majesty’s [Charles V] loans in Germany and Italy is that a great number of foreigners have come here. They are not satisfied just with their profits from banking…but are buying up all the…iron, leather and other goods’”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R6DHVMR5\">[Kamen 2003, p. 89]</a> “[Referring to the heyday of the Spanish Empire]…Lady Ann Fanshawe, wife of the British ambassador [was impressed during the mid-1660s] with the…lacquered or ivory cabinets from India or Japan”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PAHMG3MR\">[Casey 1999, p. 6]</a> Candles. “[Referring to the heyday of the Spanish Empire] The huge consumption of candles in processions and illuminations of houses during fiestas demanded an abundant supply of wax…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PAHMG3MR\">[Casey 1999, p. 54]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 30,
"polity": {
"id": 641,
"name": "et_gomma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Gomma",
"start_year": 1780,
"end_year": 1886
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 636,
"name": "et_jimma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Jimma",
"start_year": 1790,
"end_year": 1932
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "‘‘‘ The first of the following quotes establishes that at least some of the goods that passed through Jimma were exported to Gomma. The quotes after that establish the kinds of items that were traded in Jimma. “Trade between the north and the southwest passed through Jimma, much of it carried on by Jimma merchants. Through Hirmata (where the modern town of Jimma is situated) passed caravans to the southwest (to Kafa, Maji, Gimira); the south (Kullo, Konta, Uba, and elsewhere); to the west (Gomma, Guma, Gera Ilubabor); and north to Limmu, Nonno, Shoa, Wollo, and Gondar.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NRZVWSCD\">[Lewis 2001, p. 49]</a> “Manufactured products, such as perfumes, drugs and rifles, articles of clothing, such as Abujadid and a red woolen cloth known as Abukoton, colored silks, muslin (shashi), different curtains, trousers, and coats, were brought from Addis Ababa and sold in Hirmata and the surrounding markets (HASSEN 1990:140; NASSIR 1973:30-40).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6DXVMD6A\">[Seifu_Záhorík 2017, p. 55]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 31,
"polity": {
"id": 651,
"name": "et_gumma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Gumma",
"start_year": 1800,
"end_year": 1897
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 636,
"name": "et_jimma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Jimma",
"start_year": 1790,
"end_year": 1932
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "‘‘‘ The first of the following quotes establishes that at least some of the goods that passed through Jimma were exported to Gumma. The quotes after that establish the kinds of items that were traded in Jimma. “Trade between the north and the southwest passed through Jimma, much of it carried on by Jimma merchants. Through Hirmata (where the modern town of Jimma is situated) passed caravans to the southwest (to Kafa, Maji, Gimira); the south (Kullo, Konta, Uba, and elsewhere); to the west (Gomma, Guma, Gera Ilubabor); and north to Limmu, Nonno, Shoa, Wollo, and Gondar.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NRZVWSCD\">[Lewis 2001, p. 49]</a> “Manufactured products, such as perfumes, drugs and rifles, articles of clothing, such as Abujadid and a red woolen cloth known as Abukoton, colored silks, muslin (shashi), different curtains, trousers, and coats, were brought from Addis Ababa and sold in Hirmata and the surrounding markets (HASSEN 1990:140; NASSIR 1973:30-40).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6DXVMD6A\">[Seifu_Záhorík 2017, p. 55]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 32,
"polity": {
"id": 652,
"name": "et_harar_emirate",
"long_name": "Emirate of Harar",
"start_year": 1650,
"end_year": 1875
},
"year_from": 1800,
"year_to": 1875,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "The literature consulted does not explicitly label almost any of the goods that circulated in this polity at this time as notably luxurious. However, given that Harar was a major trade centre in the nineteenth century, importing and exporting a broad range of items from across the Indian Ocean and East Africa, it seems reasonable to infer that luxury manufactured goods were traded there. “Fitawrari Tackle Hawariyat was nine year old when he entered Harar with Menelik’s army that defeated Amir Abdullah’s small army at Chelenque battle[ in 1987]. He had been living at Addis Ababa just before he left and came to Harar which he described as follows: ‘[…] The shops and stores are stuffed with various types of goods imported from abroad. […]’ As the boy stated the shops and stores were stuffed with goods and merchandises imported from abroad, i.e. Yemen, Arabia, India, China, etc. […] Locally woven clothes, which according to Burton (ibid, 194) surpassed the produce of England’s manufactures in beauty and durability, ear-rings, bracelets, wax, butter, honey, mules, sorghum, wheat karanji-a kind of bread used by travelers-ghee and all sorts of tallow were also brought to Harar and then exported to different parts of the world (Harris, 1844: 222, Burton, 1966: 193 Pankhurst, 1968:53-55).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/B493QJ9U\">[Abubaker 2013]</a> ‘‘‘ The following quote suggests that only a relatively small number of items were a royal monopoly, which suggests that many luxurious items were broadly accessible to anyone who could afford them, regardless of social extraction. “Even though the trading of ivory, ostrich feathers, and other items were monopolized by some Amirs and their families; the basic value related to property right was respected i.e. economic freedom: the rights to acquire, use, transfer and dispose of private property. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/B493QJ9U\">[Abubaker 2013]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 33,
"polity": {
"id": 636,
"name": "et_jimma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Jimma",
"start_year": 1790,
"end_year": 1932
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 636,
"name": "et_jimma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Jimma",
"start_year": 1790,
"end_year": 1932
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Ethiopian Kingdom",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Traders coming from Wellega brought silver and gold to the palace, and smiths came to the palace to work on it. The smiths made jewelry, decorated shields, horse trappings and swords. Weavers came to the palace and took away cotton thread which certain of the king’s female slaves had spun. ([…] Abba Jifar had brought Amhara women to teach to do fine spinning.) The weavers returned with cloth and clothing which the king used for his household, kept in his storehouses, and sometimes sent to Addis Ababa along with other tribute. […] The tanners and the men who worked with horn came to the palace for raw materials and returned finished products to the treasuries and storehouses.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NRZVWSCD\">[Lewis 2001, p. 98]</a> “Manufactured products, such as perfumes, drugs and rifles, articles of clothing, such as Abujadid and a red woolen cloth known as Abukoton, colored silks, muslin (shashi), different curtains, trousers, and coats, were brought from Addis Ababa and sold in Hirmata and the surrounding markets (HASSEN 1990:140; NASSIR 1973:30-40).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6DXVMD6A\">[Seifu_Záhorík 2017, p. 55]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 34,
"polity": {
"id": 650,
"name": "et_kaffa_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Kaffa",
"start_year": 1390,
"end_year": 1897
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 636,
"name": "et_jimma_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Jimma",
"start_year": 1790,
"end_year": 1932
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "‘‘‘ The first of the following quotes establishes that at least some of the goods that passed through Jimma were exported to Kaffa. The quotes after that establish the kinds of items that were traded in Jimma. “Jimma is both the name of the town on which this study focuses, as well as being one of the five “Gibe states” that flourished in the second half of the 19th century. The site of the present town was also a central market town in that kingdom and a staging point for caravans that traversed the whole length of the Ethiopian Highlands, all the way from Kaffa to Massawa.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6DXVMD6A\">[Seifu_Záhorík 2017, p. 49]</a> “Manufactured products, such as perfumes, drugs and rifles, articles of clothing, such as Abujadid and a red woolen cloth known as Abukoton, colored silks, muslin (shashi), different curtains, trousers, and coats, were brought from Addis Ababa and sold in Hirmata and the surrounding markets (HASSEN 1990:140; NASSIR 1973:30-40).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6DXVMD6A\">[Seifu_Záhorík 2017, p. 55]</a> ‘‘‘ The first of the following quotes establishes that at least some of the goods that passed through Jimma were exported to Gumma. The quotes after that establish the kinds of items that were traded in Jimma. “Trade between the north and the southwest passed through Jimma, much of it carried on by Jimma merchants. Through Hirmata (where the modern town of Jimma is situated) passed caravans to the southwest (to Kafa, Maji, Gimira); the south (Kullo, Konta, Uba, and elsewhere); to the west (Gomma, Guma, Gera Ilubabor); and north to Limmu, Nonno, Shoa, Wollo, and Gondar.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NRZVWSCD\">[Lewis 2001, p. 49]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 35,
"polity": {
"id": 57,
"name": "fm_truk_1",
"long_name": "Chuuk - Early Truk",
"start_year": 1775,
"end_year": 1886
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 57,
"name": "fm_truk_1",
"long_name": "Chuuk - Early Truk",
"start_year": 1775,
"end_year": 1886
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Germany",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Various forms of luxury manufactured goods including personal adornment i.e. feather goods, leis (garlands made of an assortment of organic and other materials or goods); lavalavas (woven skirts); loincloths; belts and ear ornaments made of shell; canoes; wooden bowls; shell discs for clothing; beads; headbands. “[Referring to Truk’s ‘past’, c.C18-19, and the participation in social events such as traditional apwarik (special dances), open community dances where young men and women came together to establish future romantic relationships]…people who participated in apwarik had to dress up to impress their opposites. The best island attires were worn during the event, such as urupow (elaborate feathers)…mwaremwar or akelet (leis) and toor (traditional lavalava)…Many items used during apwarik had to be sought from elsewhere. Wa serek (sailing canoes) were often sent to far-off destinations to trade for the desired goods…[Footnote 97 relating to latter quote] The event [apwarik] was…used for displaying one’s wealth as imported items were used for bodily decoration. Wealth connects to people’s identity and social standing”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R9BS52Q2\">[Puas 2021, p. 54]</a> “[Referring largely in the publication to ‘pre-Christian’ traditions in Truk i.e. prior to the introduction of Christianity in the 1870s, and in the first quote to the manufacture of traditional fabrics and their use in trade, endnote 29] Women tended to concentrate their skirt-weaving to coincide with the times of year when people from the neighbouring atolls came to Chuuk to visit and trade, skirts being given in exchange for such atoll products as coconut-fiber rope and plaited sleeping mats. Banana fiber being more plentiful in Chuuk than in the atolls, Chuuk was a source of skirts and loincloths of higher quality (Bollig 1927: 169-170). […] [Referring to the internal organisation of itang, the second level of recognised grades of knowledge, meaning one was fully qualified but with less knowledge than the highest level] Chuuk’s itang were not formally organized as a professional group…Itang did not meet with other itang outside their kinship circle to exchange secrets and share what they knew (Eiue 1947). Interdistrict dealings between chiefs and itang, however, required shared knowledge of a secret message system. A basket (chúúk) would be sent to the chief or itang in a neighbouring district. In it tobacco leaves were placed on top of an object of value, such as a man’s loincloth or woman’s belt. The type of object conveyed the message… […] Those who had acquired knowledge of itang but who were not in the direct line of descent…were aché…(‘payment makers’…)...numerous among the aché were the purchasers…of itang knowledge and their descendants. For an itang to reveal the special meanings of itang talk to someone not eligible by descent to learn it would result in his own or his sister’s son’s death, unless appropriate payment was made. The payment for such knowledge was called the ‘hundred goods’ (ipwúkú pisek) and covered the entire range of items [i.e. objects of material culture and other luxury manufactured goods] of value. […] [Chapter endnote 20] These goods included canoes (waa), different kinds of wooden bowls (sepi, nuupw, and wuunong)…red shell disks used to sew on clothing (féwúpar), women’s woven skirts (chééyitúr)…ear ornaments consisting of large rings cut from coconut shell (séék), white ear discs cut from cone shells (kiinún), women’s bead belts from Puluwat (kinin pattiw), women’s belts with red-shell and white-shell beads in the middle (kinin tiwáán), women’s bead belts with red shell beads and, beginning in the late nineteenth century, beads imported from Japan (kinin wóón)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 246]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 302]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 305]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 318]</a> “[Referring to headbands made and worn by Trukese men in the past, inferred c.C18-19 and earlier] The man’s head band (nakasäka) was one of the most valued of ornaments, and according to the literature it evidenced perhaps the finest workmanship of any item of ornamentation. The piece was made by men and worn by men at dances and also, according to Romonum informants, when going out as a war party. The nakasäka was rubbed thoroughly with yellow turmeric powder, wrapped in pandanus leaves, and stored in a wooden chest when not in use”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SC7KZS2V\">[LeBar 1964, p. 351]</a> Exchange partner for this era inferred from the following: “Japan replaced Germany as the ruling power in World War I and was in turn replaced by the United States under United Nations Trusteeship in 1945.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5IETI75E\">[Goodenough 1999]</a> Various forms of luxury manufactured goods including personal adornment i.e. feather goods, leis (garlands made of an assortment of organic and other materials or goods); lavalavas (woven skirts); loincloths; belts and ear ornaments made of shell; canoes; wooden bowls; shell discs for clothing; beads; headbands. “[Referring to Truk’s ‘past’, c.C18-19, and the participation in social events such as traditional apwarik (special dances), open community dances where young men and women came together to establish future romantic relationships] The best island attires were worn during the event [apwari], such as urupow (elaborate feathers)…mwaremwar or akelet (leis) and toor (traditional lavalava)…Many items used during apwarik had to be sought from elsewhere. Wa serek (sailing canoes) were often sent to far-off destinations to trade for the desired goods…[Footnote 97 relating to latter quote] The event [apwarik] was…used for displaying one’s wealth as imported items were used for bodily decoration”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R9BS52Q2\">[Puas 2021, p. 54]</a> “[Referring largely in the publication to ‘pre-Christian’ traditions in Truk i.e. prior to the introduction of Christianity in the 1870s, and in the first quote to the manufacture of traditional fabrics and their use in trade, endnote 29] Women tended to concentrate their skirt-weaving to coincide with the times of year when people from the neighbouring atolls came to Chuuk to visit and trade, skirts being given in exchange for such atoll products as coconut-fiber rope and plaited sleeping mats. Banana fiber being more plentiful in Chuuk than in the atolls, Chuuk was a source of skirts and loincloths of higher quality (Bollig 1927: 169-170). […] Those who had acquired knowledge of itang but who were not in the direct line of descent…were aché…(‘payment makers’…)...numerous among the aché were the purchasers…of itang knowledge and their descendants. For an itang to reveal the special meanings of itang talk to someone not eligible by descent to learn it would result in his own or his sister’s son’s death, unless appropriate payment was made. The payment for such knowledge was called the ‘hundred goods’ (ipwúkú pisek) and covered the entire range of items [i.e. objects of material culture and other luxury manufactured goods] of value. […] [Chapter endnote 20] These goods included canoes (waa), different kinds of wooden bowls (sepi, nuupw, and wuunong)…red shell disks used to sew on clothing (féwúpar), women’s woven skirts (chééyitúr)…ear ornaments consisting of large rings cut from coconut shell (séék), white ear discs cut from cone shells (kiinún), women’s bead belts from Puluwat (kinin pattiw), women’s belts with red-shell and white-shell beads in the middle (kinin tiwáán), women’s bead belts with red shell beads and, beginning in the late nineteenth century, beads imported from Japan (kinin wóón)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 246]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 305]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 318]</a> “[Referring to headbands made and worn by Trukese men in the past, inferred c.C18-19 and earlier] The man’s head band (nakasäka) was one of the most valued of ornaments, and according to the literature it evidenced perhaps the finest workmanship of any item of ornamentation. The piece was made by men and worn by men at dances and…when going out as a war party”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SC7KZS2V\">[LeBar 1964, p. 351]</a> Loincloths; belts. “[Referring largely in the publication to ‘pre-Christian’ traditions in Truk i.e. prior to the introduction of Christianity in the 1870s, and in the quote to the internal organisation of itang, the second level of recognised grades of knowledge, meaning one was fully qualified but with less knowledge than the highest level] Chuuk’s itang were not formally organized as a professional group…Itang did not meet with other itang outside their kinship circle to exchange secrets and share what they knew (Eiue 1947). Interdistrict dealings between chiefs and itang, however, required shared knowledge of a secret message system. A basket (chúúk) would be sent to the chief or itang in a neighbouring district. In it tobacco leaves were placed on top of an object of value, such as a man’s loincloth or woman’s belt”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 302]</a> Various forms of luxury manufactured goods including personal adornment i.e. feather goods, leis (garlands made of an assortment of organic and other materials or goods); lavalavas (woven skirts); loincloths; belts and ear ornaments made of shell; canoes; wooden bowls; shell discs for clothing; beads. “[Referring to Truk’s ‘past’, c.C18-19, and the participation in social events such as traditional apwarik (special dances), open community dances where young men and women came together to establish future romantic relationships]…people who participated in apwarik had to dress up to impress their opposites. The best island attires were worn during the event, such as urupow (elaborate feathers)…mwaremwar or akelet (leis) and toor (traditional lavalava)…[Footnote 97 relating to latter quote] The event [apwarik] was…used for displaying one’s wealth as imported items were used for bodily decoration. Wealth connects to people’s identity and social standing”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R9BS52Q2\">[Puas 2021, p. 54]</a> “[Referring largely in the publication to ‘pre-Christian’ traditions in Truk i.e. prior to the introduction of Christianity in the 1870s] Those who had acquired knowledge of itang but who were not in the direct line of descent…were aché…(‘payment makers’…)...numerous among the aché were the purchasers…of itang knowledge and their descendants. For an itang to reveal the special meanings of itang talk to someone not eligible by descent to learn it would result in his own or his sister’s son’s death, unless appropriate payment was made. The payment for such knowledge was called the ‘hundred goods’ (ipwúkú pisek) and covered the entire range of items [i.e. objects of material culture and other luxury manufactured goods] of value. […] [Chapter endnote 20] These goods included canoes (waa), different kinds of wooden bowls (sepi, nuupw, and wuunong)…red shell disks used to sew on clothing (féwúpar), women’s woven skirts (chééyitúr)…ear ornaments consisting of large rings cut from coconut shell (séék), white ear discs cut from cone shells (kiinún), women’s bead belts from Puluwat (kinin pattiw), women’s belts with red-shell and white-shell beads in the middle (kinin tiwáán), women’s bead belts with red shell beads and, beginning in the late nineteenth century, beads imported from Japan (kinin wóón)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 305]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 318]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 36,
"polity": {
"id": 58,
"name": "fm_truk_2",
"long_name": "Chuuk - Late Truk",
"start_year": 1886,
"end_year": 1948
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 57,
"name": "fm_truk_1",
"long_name": "Chuuk - Early Truk",
"start_year": 1775,
"end_year": 1886
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Germany; Japan",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Various forms of luxury manufactured goods including personal adornment i.e. feather goods, leis (garlands made of an assortment of organic and other materials or goods); lavalavas (woven skirts); loincloths; belts and ear ornaments made of shell; canoes; wooden bowls; shell discs for clothing; beads; mats. “[Referring to Truk’s ‘past’, c.C19 and earlier, and the on-going participation in social events such as traditional apwarik (special dances) in the early C20, an open community dance where young men and women came together to establish future romantic relationships]…people who participated in apwarik had to dress up to impress their opposites. The best island attires were worn during the event, such as urupow (elaborate feathers)…mwaremwar or akelet (leis) and toor (traditional lavalava)…Many items used during apwarik had to be sought from elsewhere. Wa serek (sailing canoes) were often sent to far-off destinations to trade for the desired goods…[Footnote 97 relating to latter quote] The event [apwarik] was…used for displaying one’s wealth as imported items were used for bodily decoration. Wealth connects to people’s identity and social standing”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R9BS52Q2\">[Puas 2021, p. 54]</a> “[Referring to information gathered by various sources including the author prior to and around 1947 to 1948, endnote 29] Women tended to concentrate their skirt-weaving to coincide with the times of year when people from the neighbouring atolls came to Chuuk to visit and trade, skirts being given in exchange for such atoll products as coconut-fiber rope and plaited sleeping mats. Banana fiber being more plentiful in Chuuk than in the atolls, Chuuk was a source of skirts and loincloths of higher quality (Bollig 1927: 169-170). […] [Referring to the internal organisation of itang, the second level of recognised grades of knowledge, meaning one was fully qualified but with less knowledge than the highest level] Chuuk’s itang were not formally organized as a professional group…Itang did not meet with other itang outside their kinship circle to exchange secrets and share what they knew (Eiue 1947). Interdistrict dealings between chiefs and itang, however, required shared knowledge of a secret message system. A basket (chúúk) would be sent to the chief or itang in a neighbouring district. In it tobacco leaves were placed on top of an object of value, such as a man’s loincloth or woman’s belt. The type of object conveyed the message… […] Those who had acquired knowledge of itang but who were not in the direct line of descent…were aché…(‘payment makers’…)...numerous among the aché were the purchasers…of itang knowledge and their descendants. For an itang to reveal the special meanings of itang talk to someone not eligible by descent to learn it would result in his own or his sister’s son’s death, unless appropriate payment was made. The payment for such knowledge was called the ‘hundred goods’ (ipwúkú pisek) and covered the entire range of items [i.e. objects of material culture and other luxury manufactured goods] of value. […] [Chapter endnote 20] These goods included canoes (waa), different kinds of wooden bowls (sepi, nuupw, and wuunong)…red shell disks used to sew on clothing (féwúpar), women’s woven skirts (chééyitúr)…ear ornaments consisting of large rings cut from coconut shell (séék), white ear discs cut from cone shells (kiinún), women’s bead belts from Puluwat (kinin pattiw), women’s belts with red-shell and white-shell beads in the middle (kinin tiwáán), women’s bead belts with red shell beads and, beginning in the late nineteenth century, beads imported from Japan (kinin wóón)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 246]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 302]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 305]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 318]</a> “[Inferred as referring here to the present day at the time of writing, c.early C20] The acquisition of property on Truk is usually done by means of barter…Smaller units of exchange are sebi (wooden bowls)…faupar (red shell disks), hip mats…These products of native industry are not present in like quantity or in like quality on all the islands. Thus, Sapesis on Fefan is famous for its fine bowls…Iluk for its fine hip mats”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XV8IQ8W4\">[Bollig 1927, p. 135]</a> Exchange partners inferred from the following: “Japan replaced Germany as the ruling power in World War I and was in turn replaced by the United States under United Nations Trusteeship in 1945.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5IETI75E\">[Goodenough 1999]</a> Various forms of luxury manufactured goods including personal adornment i.e. feather goods, leis (garlands made of an assortment of organic and other materials or goods); lavalavas (woven skirts); belts and ear ornaments made of shell; canoes; wooden bowls; shell discs for clothing; beads. “[Referring to Truk’s ‘past’, c.C19 and earlier, and the on-going participation in social events such as traditional apwarik (special dances) in the early C20, an open community dance where young men and women came together to establish future romantic relationships] The best island attires were worn during the event [apwarik], such as urupow (elaborate feathers)…mwaremwar or akelet (leis) and toor (traditional lavalava)…Many items used during apwarik had to be sought from elsewhere. Wa serek (sailing canoes) were often sent to far-off destinations to trade for the desired goods…[Footnote 97 relating to latter quote] The event [apwarik] was…used for displaying one’s wealth as imported items were used for bodily decoration”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R9BS52Q2\">[Puas 2021, p. 54]</a> “[Referring to information gathered by various sources including the author prior to and around 1947 to 1948, endnote 29] Women tended to concentrate their skirt-weaving to coincide with the times of year when people from the neighbouring atolls came to Chuuk to visit and trade, skirts being given in exchange for such atoll products as coconut-fiber rope and plaited sleeping mats. Banana fiber being more plentiful in Chuuk than in the atolls, Chuuk was a source of skirts and loincloths of higher quality (Bollig 1927: 169-170). […] Those who had acquired knowledge of itang [the second level of recognised grades of knowledge, meaning one was fully qualified but with less knowledge than the highest level] but who were not in the direct line of descent…were aché…(‘payment makers’…)...numerous among the aché were the purchasers…of itang knowledge and their descendants. For an itang to reveal the special meanings of itang talk to someone not eligible by descent to learn it would result in his own or his sister’s son’s death, unless appropriate payment was made. The payment for such knowledge was called the ‘hundred goods’ (ipwúkú pisek) and covered the entire range of items [i.e. objects of material culture and other luxury manufactured goods] of value. […] [Chapter endnote 20] These goods included canoes (waa), different kinds of wooden bowls (sepi, nuupw, and wuunong)…red shell disks used to sew on clothing (féwúpar), women’s woven skirts (chééyitúr)…ear ornaments consisting of large rings cut from coconut shell (séék), white ear discs cut from cone shells (kiinún), women’s bead belts from Puluwat (kinin pattiw), women’s belts with red-shell and white-shell beads in the middle (kinin tiwáán), women’s bead belts with red shell beads and, beginning in the late nineteenth century, beads imported from Japan (kinin wóón)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 246]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 305]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 318]</a> Various forms of luxury manufactured goods including personal adornment i.e. feather goods, leis (garlands made of an assortment of organic and other materials or goods); lavalavas (woven skirts); belts and ear ornaments made of shell; canoes; wooden bowls; shell discs for clothing; beads. “[Referring to Truk’s ‘past’, c.C19 and earlier, and the on-going participation in social events such as traditional apwarik (special dances) in the early C20, an open community dance where young men and women came together to establish future romantic relationships]…people who participated in apwarik had to dress up to impress their opposites. The best island attires were worn during the event, such as urupow (elaborate feathers)…mwaremwar or akelet (leis) and toor (traditional lavalava)…[Footnote 97 relating to latter quote] The event [apwarik] was…used for displaying one’s wealth as imported items were used for bodily decoration. Wealth connects to people’s identity and social standing”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/R9BS52Q2\">[Puas 2021, p. 54]</a> “[Referring to information gathered by various sources including the author prior to and around 1947 to 1948] Those who had acquired knowledge of itang [the second level of recognised grades of knowledge, meaning one was fully qualified but with less knowledge than the highest level] but who were not in the direct line of descent…were aché…(‘payment makers’…)...numerous among the aché were the purchasers…of itang knowledge and their descendants. For an itang to reveal the special meanings of itang talk to someone not eligible by descent to learn it would result in his own or his sister’s son’s death, unless appropriate payment was made. The payment for such knowledge was called the ‘hundred goods’ (ipwúkú pisek) and covered the entire range of items [i.e. objects of material culture and other luxury manufactured goods] of value. […] [Chapter endnote 20] These goods included canoes (waa), different kinds of wooden bowls (sepi, nuupw, and wuunong)…red shell disks used to sew on clothing (féwúpar), women’s woven skirts (chééyitúr)…ear ornaments consisting of large rings cut from coconut shell (séék), white ear discs cut from cone shells (kiinún), women’s bead belts from Puluwat (kinin pattiw), women’s belts with red-shell and white-shell beads in the middle (kinin tiwáán), women’s bead belts with red shell beads and, beginning in the late nineteenth century, beads imported from Japan (kinin wóón)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 305]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RKAPJESV\">[Goodenough 2002, p. 318]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 37,
"polity": {
"id": 460,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_1",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Early Bourbon",
"start_year": 1589,
"end_year": 1660
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 460,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_1",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Early Bourbon",
"start_year": 1589,
"end_year": 1660
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“In the days of Louis XIV, fashions had been set by the king, who shrewdly understood that by setting and then modifying the dress standards, his example would be taken up by the people at the court, followed by the Parisian middle classes, and this would promote French luxury industries. But even Louis could not control every aspect of fashion, and the impetus gradually shifted to leading court ladies and socialites.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, p. 358]</a> “In the early seventeenth century, Henry IV and Louis XIII were not as enamored of paintings, but other court figures understood their importance for enhancing reputations. Marie de’ Medici in exile commissioned a series of massive canvasses by Reubens to celebrate key moments of her life - her arrival in France, her marriage to Henry IV, her assumption of the regency - in each of which she is the focus of attention, surrounded by gods and goddesses of the ancient world in a dramatic, legitimizing, baroque allegory.[...] Cardinals Richelieu and Mazarin also understood the importance of artistic expression.[...] He [Richelieu] commissioned paintings by a whole stable of new talented French painters such as Champaigne and Vouet, and set up galleries of portraits in all his residencies.[...] Therefore he supported art that glorified himself rather than the elegance of the court. He commissioned at least twenty-five self-portraits by Philipe de Champaige.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, pp. 324-325]</a> Paintings by European artists, not just French. “In the early seventeenth century, Henry IV and Louis XIII were not as enamored of paintings, but other court figures understood their importance for enhancing reputations. Marie de’ Medici in exile commissioned a series of massive canvasses by Reubens to celebrate key moments of her life - her arrival in France, her marriage to Henry IV, her assumption of the regency - in each of which she is the focus of attention, surrounded by gods and goddesses of the ancient world in a dramatic, legitimizing, baroque allegory.[...] Cardinals Richelieu and Mazarin also understood the importance of artistic expression.[...] He [Richelieu] commissioned paintings by a whole stable of new talented French painters such as Champaigne and Vouet, and set up galleries of portraits in all his residencies.[...] Therefore he supported art that glorified himself rather than the elegance of the court. He commissioned at least twenty-five self-portraits by Philipe de Champaige.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, pp. 324-325]</a> “France was a little late in receiving the tulip, about 1608, but soon afterwards women were wearing them tucked into their low-cut dresses, and bulbs were changing hands for extravagant sums. One groom was prepared to agree to a single bulb, appropriately called ‘Mariage de ma fille’, for his wife’s dowry.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AUHUVCQZ\">[Goody 1993, pp. 188-189]</a> Middle classes “In the days of Louis XIV, fashions had been set by the king, who shrewdly understood that by setting and then modifying the dress standards, his example would be taken up by the people at the court, followed by the Parisian middle classes, and this would promote French luxury industries. But even Louis could not control every aspect of fashion, and the impetus gradually shifted to leading court ladies and socialites.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, p. 358]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 38,
"polity": {
"id": 461,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_2",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Late Bourbon",
"start_year": 1660,
"end_year": 1815
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“The luxury industry was driven by aristocratic demand. It extended to a whole range of items, not just clothing. The great spent fortunes on renovations to townhouses and rural chateaux, filling them with furniture, tapestries, paintings, clocks, porcelain, and jewellery that we today see in museums. Letters begin to describe the gourmet dishes served at formal dinners, as chefs competed to produce new sauces and exotic recipes. Carriages of all sizes and capacities were proliferating, along with the necessary horses. The duc de la Tremouille purchased fifteen carriages in many different styles, worth at least 3,000 livres apiece, between 1777 and 1787. The larger models required four to eight horses to pull them. The result was the need for colossal stables. The king’s brother, the comte d’Artois, had 242 horses.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, p. 358]</a> “From his first assumption of personal power in 1661, every move Louis XIV made was reinterpreted for posterity and broadcast in what could only be called a grand artistic plan for royalist self-promotion. In 1662 Jean-Baptiste Colbert, one of the king’s loyal ministers, was already planning what we might today call “image-making” or “spin-control” on behalf of the king, along with “feasts, masquerades, carousels and other similar diversions.” [...]The same scenario was invoked when Le Brun painted murals on the ceiling of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, including Louis in a toga sitting on his throne over a banner that read “the king assumes personal power”, followed by scenes dramatizing his military successes.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, p. 327]</a> “In the 1770s and 1780s Marie Antoinette herself became the nation’s leading fashion plate, under the influence of her dressmaker, Rose Bertin, who met with her weekly to keep her wardrobe up to date. Bertin opened a shop in Paris and started a business designing and peddling frivolous new styles to aristocratic ladies and prominent actresses.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZL9YB2F9\">[Beik 2009, p. 359]</a> It is unclear, based on the literature consulted, if there were luxury equivalents of the following manufactures that were only attainable by elites. “In Paris the interior of even modest dwellings began to change in the early decades of the [eighteenth] century. Apartments were larger, and because smaller and more numerous fireplaces were built into them families occupied different rooms instead of crowding around one enormous hearth in the common salle. Brightly colored or patterned wallpapers and fabrics began to replace heavy drab tapestries on the walls. Mirrors, clocks, paintings, and statuettes, once a mark of significant wealth, became widespread, as did a range of utilitarian objects such as umbrellas, fans, snuffboxes, watches, and books. More and more families ate from matching sets of decorated earthenware instead of tin or pewter plates.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K6CGKKVT\">[Maza 1997, p. 215]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 39,
"polity": {
"id": 457,
"name": "fr_capetian_k_1",
"long_name": "Proto-French Kingdom",
"start_year": 987,
"end_year": 1150
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“All the Ivory Chessmen and table-men,however, are of east-to-west and north-to-south movement of ideas and raw material from the Arctic to the shores of the eastern Mediterranean, for use in elite household leisure contexts between the later tenth and twelfth centuries.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, pp. 256-257]</a> “The material culture of hunting, other than the remains of the animals themselves, is varied. Riding gear - horse-bits, saddle furnishings, spurs and sometimes stirrups - are ubiquitous at centres of high aristocracy, in both West Francia and Britain, whether late tenth- to early eleventh century Andone (Bourgeois 2009) or early to mid twelfth century Castle Acre.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 257]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 265]</a> “In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, book-fittings or book-clasps, with animal and vegetal ornament, are increasingly found in castles, a sign that literacy was slowly becoming common among the castle-dwelling noble elite.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DDR55KSX\">[Felgenhauer-Schmiedt_et_al 2007, p. 257]</a> “Thematerial culture of hunting, other than the remains of the animals themselves, is varied. Riding gear - horse-bits, saddle furnishings, spurs and sometimes stirrups - ar ubiquitous at centres of high aristocracy, in both West Francia and Britain, whether late tenth- to early eleventh century Andone (Bourgeois 2009) or early to mid twelfth century Castle Acre.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 257]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 265]</a> “In addition to theconspicuous consumption of food, both domesticated and wild, and profligate discard and waste of normally valuable objects, leisure was the other marker of elite household status. An increasing number of bone, antler and sometimes ivory chessmen have been excavated recently from early castle centres in West Francia, dating from the tenth and eleventh centuries, in addition to counters and incised gaming boards for nine-men's morris, or mereles/marelles, and dice.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 256]</a> “The material culture of hunting, other than the remains of the animals themselves, is varied. Riding gear - horse-bits, saddle furnishings, spurs and sometimes stirrups - ar ubiquitous at centres of high aristocracy, in both West Francia and Britain, whether late tenth- to early eleventh century Andone (Bourgeois 2009) or early to mid twelfth century Castle Acre.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 257]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 265]</a> “Inaddition to the conspicuous consumption of food, both domesticated and wild, and profligate discard and waste of normally valuable objects, leisure was the other marker of elite household status. An increasing number of bone, antler and sometimes ivory chessmen have been excavated recently from early castle centres in West Francia, dating from the tenth and eleventh centuries, in addition to counters and incised gaming boards for nine-men's morris, or mereles/marelles, and dice.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5W4WVDW9\">[Loveluck 2013, p. 256]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 40,
"polity": {
"id": 458,
"name": "fr_capetian_k_2",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Late Capetian",
"start_year": 1150,
"end_year": 1328
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Provence",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Far to the south, up to a month’s travel away on roads subject to tolls and rendered hazardous by bandits, towns on the Mediterranean coast acted as hubs for luxury long-distance trade in goods such as precious metals, silk, cloth of gold and jewels as well as consumables like spices, oil, rice, wine and sugar. All these commodities were highly desirable to the élites of the north and merchants were prepared to take major risks to realise great rewards. Dominant amongst these cities were Marseilles and Montpellier, both outside France’s borders: Aigues-Mortes was conceived as a Capetian-controlled trading port to rival them. Artisan trades such as embroidery, metalworking, leatherworking and stone carving flourished in such centres, as did shipbuilding. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/66GFGV49\">[Hallam_West 2019, p. 282]</a> “The finest products on offer from medieval booksellers were not cheap, however, for the finest products demanded the deployment of immense numbers of hours of work by highly skilled and gifted illuminators. In every capital there were booksellers or stationers. They had some standard works in stock, ready written, but the most luxurious were commissioned by their clients themselves, after lengthy discussions, with very exact specifications. Many works therefore came in both standard form and in luxurious illuminated versions. The best known of these are the Books of Hours, religious office books for private lay devotion, which were produced in ever increasing quantities from their first compilation in the 1240s onwards.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N7ZCQTEW\">[Spufford 2006, p. 123]</a> Far to the south, up to a month’s travel away on roads subject to tolls and rendered hazardous by bandits, towns on the Mediterranean coast acted as hubs for luxury long-distance trade in goods such as precious metals, silk, cloth of gold and jewels as well as consumables like spices, oil, rice wine and sugar. All these commodities were highly desirable to the élites of the north and merchants were prepared to take major risks to realise great rewards. Dominant amongst these cities were Marseilles and Montpellier, both outside France’s borders: Aigues-Mortes was conceived as a Capetian-controlled trading port to rival them. Artisan trades such as embroidery, metalworking, leatherworking and stone carving flourished in such centres, as did shipbuilding. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/66GFGV49\">[Hallam_West 2019, p. 282]</a> “Tapestry-weaving was yet another skill imported into Europe from the Middle East. In 1262 it was already appropriate for one of the proctors of Henry III of England at the court of Louis IX of France to be seeking in Paris for a suitable tapestry for the hall of the English chancellor. What is not clear is whether the tapestries that he looked at had been imported from the Middle East ir had been made in Paris itself.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N7ZCQTEW\">[Spufford 2006, p. 276]</a> “Tapestry-weaving was yet another skill imported into Europe from the Middle East. in 1262 it was already appropriate for one of the proctors of Henry III of England at the court of Louis IX of France to be seeking in Paris for a suitable tapestry for the hall of the English chancellor. What is not clear is whether the tapestries that he looked at had been imported from the Middle East or had been made in Paris itself.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N7ZCQTEW\">[Spufford 2006, p. 276]</a> “Against a backdrop of slow inflation during the course of the thirteenth century, prices and wages remained, it seems, broadly stable in areas where traditional subsistence economy prevailed. In contrast, those places depending primarily on the new long-distance trading economy experienced at times a far greater prosperity, but also far more volatile and disruptive economic conditions as the prices of cloth, grain, wine and dairy products tended to fluctuate. The economic context of the outbreak of violence by the pastoureaux in 1252 (p. 273) was a scarcity of grain for bread.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/66GFGV49\">[Hallam_West 2019, p. 283]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 41,
"polity": {
"id": 309,
"name": "fr_carolingian_emp_1",
"long_name": "Carolingian Empire I",
"start_year": 752,
"end_year": 840
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Empty_Description",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 42,
"polity": {
"id": 304,
"name": "fr_merovingian_emp_1",
"long_name": "Early Merovingian",
"start_year": 481,
"end_year": 543
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Characteristically, aristocratic grave-goods, however, swords with gold-and-garnet cloisonné decorations for their scabbard, kidney-shaped buckle-plates, cloisonné purse fittings, horse-bits, and so on, such as are found with Childeric at Tournai [...].” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZGI3G4QD\">[James 1991, p. 220]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 43,
"polity": {
"id": 306,
"name": "fr_merovingian_emp_2",
"long_name": "Middle Merovingian",
"start_year": 543,
"end_year": 687
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 72,
"name": "tr_east_roman_emp",
"long_name": "East Roman Empire",
"start_year": 395,
"end_year": 631
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Byzantine / eastern Mediterranean and Oriental imports are very often seen as ‘luxury’ items indicating the high social status of those people who have been buried with them. Some of the above-mentioned object groups are obviously of high value, especially splendour swords, helmets, silver spoons, silk textiles, etc., and it is an interesting though expectable result that they belonged mainly to the grave furnishings of high-status burials. On the other hand, a statistical analysis of the finds from southern Germany shows that between the second third of the sixth and the second third of the seventh century many other exotic objects – cowries, amethysts, brooches with red- garnet cloisonné, and even ivory rings –have also been found in graves that cannot be ranked as belonging to individuals of a high social or economic status. The inflow of imports also reached the ‘middle class’ which must be taken into account when thinking about the possible distribution mechanisms.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRDPUGMF\">[Sarti_et_al 2019, p. 11]</a> “Gregory’s Histories also testify to imports that are invisible to archaeology, including spices, aromatics, skins and leather, papyrus, and slaves, for which Marseille was one of the principal markets (Historiae V, 5).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N7322T9B\">[Bonifay_et_al 2020, pp. 860-882]</a> “The species included other rare and expensive goods like panther skins, leopards, lions, ivory from Africa, furs trans-shipped from Parthia and Babylon, chattering parrots from India and Africa, lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, tortoiseshell from the tropics. There were too legendary gemstones of the Indies: ‘hyacinth stone’, beryl, bloodstone, carnelian, sardonyx, diamonds and emeralds. More salient than function or botany, cost was what made a spice a spice.[...] The sixth century laws of the Franks, Visigoths and Alamanni all mention spicarium, a warehouse where high-value goods were stored.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MBSQH8EA\">[Turner 2005, pp. 95-96]</a> The following quote seems to suggest that France traded with Byzantium at this time; possibly other polities in the Eastern Mediterranean and farther into Asia, but more information is needed in that regard. “Byzantine / eastern Mediterranean and Oriental imports are very often seen as ‘luxury’ items indicating the high social status of those people who have been buried with them. Some of the above-mentioned object groups are obviously of high value, especially splendour swords, helmets, silver spoons, silk textiles, etc., and it is an interesting though expectable result that they belonged mainly to the grave furnishings of high-status burials.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRDPUGMF\">[Sarti_et_al 2019, p. 11]</a> “Her [Queen Aregonde - died 580 - 581 AD] jewellery is testament to her status, with a long silver-gilt dress pin, a large belt buckle and garter fittings, among others found in the burial.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F6RZQVDU\">[Desrosiers_Rast-Eicher 2012, p. 1]</a> “Byzantine / eastern Mediterranean and Oriental imports are very often seen as ‘luxury’ items indicating the high social status of those people who have been buried with them. Some of the above-mentioned object groups are obviously of high value, especially splendour swords, helmets, silver spoons, silk textiles, etc., and it is an interesting though expectable result that they belonged mainly to the grave furnishings of high-status burials.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRDPUGMF\">[Sarti_et_al 2019, p. 28]</a> “On the other hand, a statistical analysis of the finds from southern Germany shows that between the second third of the sixth and the second third of the seventh century many other exotic objects – cowries, amethysts, brooches with red- garnet cloisonné, and even ivory rings –have also been found in graves that cannot be ranked as belonging to individuals of a high social or economic status. The inflow of imports also reached the ‘middle class’ which must be taken into account when thinking about the possible distribution mechanisms. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRDPUGMF\">[Sarti_et_al 2019, p. 28]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 44,
"polity": {
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“Contemporary commercial writers, concerned with the demand side of the economy and thus with expanding old markets for British manufacturers, and creating new ones were impressed with the variety of exportable metal wares made in the Midlands. Postlethwayt argued in 1757 that promoting economic growth and nurturing ‘the general perfection of the manufactures of a state consists in obtaining the preference of every class of consumers.’” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/B6GCMW6A\">[Koehn 2018, p. 39]</a> “Far more common tobacco-related crimes, or at least ones worth reporting and prosecuting, were thefts of the associated, and more expensive, wares of tobacco use, particularly metal carrying boxes. Often silver and finely crafted, these pocket-sized items were favoured targets of pickpockets and housebreakers.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7D2UIF7G\">[Bickham 2020, p. 46]</a> “Seven years of war underscored the importance of colonial outlets. During the conflict British manufactures—metal wares, textiles, glass, and more-poured overseas to North American colonies and Bengal, where thousands of troops demanded food, clothing, and equipment.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/B6GCMW6A\">[Koehn 2018, p. 94]</a> “Music, literature and the theatre were George’s interests throughout his life; he was also a notable collector of fine furniture, porcelain, bronzes and objects d’art in general as evidenced in the contents of Carlton House, the Pavilion at Brighton, Windsor Castle and later, Buckingham Palace.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TGSQZBAD\">[Smith 1999, p. 334]</a> “In consequence, consumption of associated items for display boomed – clothes, furniture and, most notably, the favoured beverage of tea and the tools for serving it. Ownership of utensils in the forms of silver cutlery and porcelain dishes exploded among middling households in the eighteenth century, forming what historian Maxine Berg has aptly dubbed ‘the grammar of the polite table’.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7D2UIF7G\">[Bickham 2020, p. 67]</a> “Separate insurance riders on goods of particular value indicate that most shopkeepers considered here led a decidedly middling lifestyle, with such luxury goods as china, glass and prints but nothing extraordinary.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7D2UIF7G\">[Bickham 2020, p. 95]</a> “Elizabeth Montagu decorated a room in Chinese wallpaper in her famous Portman Square house, completed in 1781, which she sometimes referred to as ‘the Empire of China’. Stoneleigh Abbey in Warwickshire, which later became the fictional setting for Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park, had a room fitted in the 1760s with an Indian cabinet, bamboo chairs, seventeen Indian prints and a host of other Asiatic-themed objects. While such spaces were the preserve of the elite, plenty of middling and labouring households had access to such goods, albeit on a lesser scale.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7D2UIF7G\">[Bickham 2020, p. 180]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 45,
"polity": {
"id": 113,
"name": "gh_akan",
"long_name": "Akan - Pre-Ashanti",
"start_year": 1501,
"end_year": 1701
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Arms, ammunition; toilette-ware; bracelets. “The decision to build the fort of Sao Jorge at Elmina was taken in the belief that other Portuguese-manufactured produce – ‘silk, woollen and linen cloths, and other domestic goods’ – would find a ready market there. Certainly objects of copper and brass did, whether shaving bowls, urinals, chamber pots, water jugs, bells, boxes, or bracelets (manilhas).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2MY9LKN8\">[Wilks_Internet_Archive 1993, p. 23]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 46,
"polity": {
"id": 608,
"name": "gm_kaabu_emp",
"long_name": "Kaabu",
"start_year": 1500,
"end_year": 1867
},
"year_from": 1700,
"year_to": 1867,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown; Europe",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "“We can now look at perhaps the two best-known written accounts we have of the Kaabu polity from the early modern era. They come from Jajolet de la Courbe, dating from the 1680s, and Père Jean-Baptiste Labat; Labat is widely thought to have plagiarised la Courbe for much of his account of Western Africa, but not all the details are the same in their accounts of Kaabu and thus both are worth citing. La Courbe described aspects of Kaabu with some accuracy, noting that the King of the Kaabunké and his immediate subjects were \"idolaters\" but that the Mandinka near Geba were Moslem. The main aspect noted by la Courbe was the King of Kaabu's extreme militarism. According to la Courbe, […] his palace was filled with luxury European goods which served mainly as curiosities, such as clocks and weapons.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/V2GTBN8A\">[Green 2009, p. 98]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 47,
"polity": {
"id": 153,
"name": "id_iban_1",
"long_name": "Iban - Pre-Brooke",
"start_year": 1650,
"end_year": 1841
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 153,
"name": "id_iban_1",
"long_name": "Iban - Pre-Brooke",
"start_year": 1650,
"end_year": 1841
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Various types of body ornaments, mats and baskets, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions; note that human heads taken in war, which were smoked and then preserved, might be inferred as ‘special’ or important goods or possessions given their high-value to Iban people over at least part of the period in question, but are omitted from this document on the basis they are primarily human remains and not culturally manufactured artefacts, even if treated historically as ‘ornaments’ and considered ‘precious heirlooms’ by Iban people. “[The following quotes inferred as likely applicable to this period according to the publication focus; referring specifically in the first quote to the bride-price agreed between an Iban and Bukitan man, including] One Tanggui serawong hat, of the kind worn by high-ranking Iban brides, especially on the first day they live with their husbands. […] All better-class Dayak women are expected to be good at weaving mats [inferred as potentially also consumed by high-ranking Iban women]…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UCWP6S4F\">[Sandin 1967, p. 20]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UCWP6S4F\">[Sandin 1967, p. 36]</a> “[The following quotes inferred as likely applicable to this period according to the early date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the description of a ‘Gala costume of a Dyak Lady’] Sugu pirak. Silver-mounted comb. Ensuga tisir. Upper part of the comb. Lilap. Diamond-shaped ornament on the comb. Tusok pending, engkrabu, tensang pending, or sumpin. Earring. Tenggak. Necklace of beads, silver coins, etc. Marik. Beads. M. ampan. Beads threaded and worn in rows down to the breasts. Tumpa. Bracelet or rings of brass on the wrists. T. rangki. Armlet made of a sea shell (rangki). Tinchin tunjok. Finger ring. Rawai. Brass rings threaded upon rotan and worn like a corset round the body from armpit to midway between the waist and the fork. Kenyawir. A diamond-shaped metal ornament tied on the rawai. Ringgit. Dollar coins worn round the waist above the rawai. Segai. A silver, or a silver-coin belt…Sabit. Finely wrought brass chains worn from the waist to the border of the kain [petticoat]. S. pirak. Similar chains but of silver…Slong. Brass rings worn on the legs. […] Bukup (bebukup), a kind of rotan used for making the best (bidai) mats. […] Kalingkang (bekalingkang), a mat a span square with the corners tied up with string, used in ceremonies. […] Rundai (berundai), s. a fancy basket [versus other more ‘ordinary’, utilitarian types of basket]…part. hanging down… […] Sergandi (besergandi), a small basket that fastened to the end of an upright pole placed in the centre of the covered verandah (ruai) of the house contains an offering of raw rice and the chewing ingredients. It is only used when manang [witch-doctors/‘doctors of magic’] perform the pelian ceremony [to restore the health of a sick person]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 17]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 28]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 71]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 143]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 156]</a> Various types of body ornaments, mats and baskets, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions. “[The following quote inferred as likely applicable to this period according to the publication focus; referring specifically in the quote to the bride-price agreed between an Iban and Bukitan man, including] One Tanggui serawong hat, of the kind worn by high-ranking Iban brides [inferred as of Iban-manufacture]… […] All better-class Dayak women are expected to be good at weaving mats…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UCWP6S4F\">[Sandin 1967, p. 20]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UCWP6S4F\">[Sandin 1967, p. 36]</a> “[The following quotes inferred as likely applicable to this period according to the early date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the description of a ‘Gala costume of a Dyak Lady’, inferred as all locally manufactured] Sugu pirak. Silver-mounted comb. Ensuga tisir. Upper part of the comb. Lilap. Diamond-shaped ornament on the comb. Tusok pending, engkrabu, tensang pending, or sumpin. Earring. Tenggak. Necklace of beads, silver coins, etc. Marik. Beads. M. ampan. Beads threaded and worn in rows down to the breasts. Tumpa. Bracelet or rings of brass on the wrists. T. rangki. Armlet made of a sea shell (rangki). Tinchin tunjok. Finger ring. Rawai. Brass rings threaded upon rotan and worn like a corset round the body from armpit to midway between the waist and the fork. Kenyawir. A diamond-shaped metal ornament tied on the rawai. Ringgit. Dollar coins worn round the waist above the rawai. Segai. A silver, or a silver-coin belt…Sabit. Finely wrought brass chains worn from the waist to the border of the kain [petticoat]. S. pirak. Similar chains but of silver…Slong. Brass rings worn on the legs. […] Bukup (bebukup), a kind of rotan used for making the best (bidai) mats. […] Kalingkang (bekalingkang), a mat a span square with the corners tied up with string [inferred as of local manufacture], used in ceremonies. […] Rundai (berundai), s. a fancy basket [versus other more ‘ordinary’, utilitarian types of basket, inferred as of local manufacture]…part. hanging down… […] Sergandi (besergandi), a small basket [inferred as of local manufacture] that fastened to the end of an upright pole placed in the centre of the covered verandah (ruai) of the house contains an offering of raw rice and the chewing ingredients. It is only used when manang [witch-doctors/‘doctors of magic’] perform the pelian ceremony [to restore the health of a sick person]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 17]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 28]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 71]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 143]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 156]</a> Specific types of body ornaments and mats, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions. “[The following quotes inferred as likely applicable to this period according to the publication focus; referring specifically in the first quote to the bride-price agreed between an Iban and Bukitan man, including] One Tanggui serawong hat, of the kind worn by high-ranking Iban brides, especially on the first day they live with their husbands. […] All better-class Dayak women are expected to be good at weaving mats [inferred as potentially also consumed by high-ranking Iban women]…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UCWP6S4F\">[Sandin 1967, p. 20]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UCWP6S4F\">[Sandin 1967, p. 36]</a> Various types of body ornaments, mats and baskets, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions. “[The following quotes inferred as likely applicable to this period according to the early date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the description of a ‘Gala costume of a Dyak Lady’] Sugu pirak. Silver-mounted comb. Ensuga tisir. Upper part of the comb. Lilap. Diamond-shaped ornament on the comb. Tusok pending, engkrabu, tensang pending, or sumpin. Earring. Tenggak. Necklace of beads, silver coins, etc. Marik. Beads. M. ampan. Beads threaded and worn in rows down to the breasts. Tumpa. Bracelet or rings of brass on the wrists. T. rangki. Armlet made of a sea shell (rangki). Tinchin tunjok. Finger ring. Rawai. Brass rings threaded upon rotan and worn like a corset round the body from armpit to midway between the waist and the fork. Kenyawir. A diamond-shaped metal ornament tied on the rawai. Ringgit. Dollar coins worn round the waist above the rawai. Segai. A silver, or a silver-coin belt…Sabit. Finely wrought brass chains worn from the waist to the border of the kain [petticoat]. S. pirak. Similar chains but of silver…Slong. Brass rings worn on the legs. […] Kalingkang (bekalingkang), a mat a span square with the corners tied up with string, used in ceremonies. […] Sergandi (besergandi), a small basket that fastened to the end of an upright pole placed in the centre of the covered verandah (ruai) of the house contains an offering of raw rice and the chewing ingredients. It is only used when manang [witch-doctors/‘doctors of magic’] perform the pelian ceremony [to restore the health of a sick person]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 17]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 71]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 156]</a> Note that Iban society at this time was relatively egalitarian, suggesting that luxury goods were available to many. ’Unlike the Kayan, Kenyah, pagan Melanau and several other Bornean peoples, the Iban are not divided into social classes. Nor is there any form of institutionalized leadership based upon hereditary succession, or some other socially divisive principle. Instead Iban society is characterized by a strongly egalitarian ethos. In this respect, each bilik -family jurally constitutes a discrete and autonomous social unit, which manages its own affairs and recognizes no higher authority than that of its own household head.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5U8X7Q5P\">[Davison_Sutlive_Sutlive 1991, p. 159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 48,
"polity": {
"id": 154,
"name": "id_iban_2",
"long_name": "Iban - Brooke Raj and Colonial",
"start_year": 1841,
"end_year": 1987
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 154,
"name": "id_iban_2",
"long_name": "Iban - Brooke Raj and Colonial",
"start_year": 1841,
"end_year": 1987
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Various types of body ornaments, mats and baskets, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions; note that human heads taken in war, which were smoked and then preserved, might be inferred as ‘special’ or important goods or possessions given their high-value to Iban people over at least part of the period in question, but are omitted from this document on the basis they are primarily human remains and not culturally manufactured artefacts, even if treated historically as ‘ornaments’ and considered ‘precious heirlooms’ by Iban people and referred to as such in Gomes (1911, 44, illustration following 78). “[The following quotes inferred as applicable to this period according to the date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the description of a ‘Gala costume of a Dyak Lady’] Sugu pirak. Silver-mounted comb. Ensuga tisir. Upper part of the comb. Lilap. Diamond-shaped ornament on the comb. Tusok pending, engkrabu, tensang pending, or sumpin. Earring. Tenggak. Necklace of beads, silver coins, etc. Marik. Beads. M. ampan. Beads threaded and worn in rows down to the breasts. Tumpa. Bracelet or rings of brass on the wrists. T. rangki. Armlet made of a sea shell (rangki). Tinchin tunjok. Finger ring. Rawai. Brass rings threaded upon rotan and worn like a corset round the body from armpit to midway between the waist and the fork. Kenyawir. A diamond-shaped metal ornament tied on the rawai. Ringgit. Dollar coins worn round the waist above the rawai. Segai. A silver, or a silver-coin belt…Sabit. Finely wrought brass chains worn from the waist to the border of the kain [petticoat]. S. pirak. Similar chains but of silver…Slong. Brass rings worn on the legs. […] Bukup (bebukup), a kind of rotan used for making the best (bidai) mats. […] Kalingkang (bekalingkang), a mat a span square with the corners tied up with string, used in ceremonies. […] Rundai (berundai), s. a fancy basket [versus other more ‘ordinary’, utilitarian types of basket]…part. hanging down… […] Sergandi (besergandi), a small basket that fastened to the end of an upright pole placed in the centre of the covered verandah (ruai) of the house contains an offering of raw rice and the chewing ingredients. It is only used when manang [witch-doctors/‘doctors of magic’] perform the pelian ceremony [to restore the health of a sick person]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 17]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 28]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 71]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 143]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 156]</a> “[The following quotes inferred as applicable to this period according to the date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the ruai or public hall of a ‘long Dyak village house’] Here the women often do their work…the plaiting of mats…The floor is carpeted with thick and heavy mats, made of cane interlaced with narrow strips of beaten bark. Over these are spread other mats of finer texture for visitors to sit upon. […] [Referring to head-hunting and preparations for a war expedition] They would furbish up their arms…and decorate their helmets and war-jackets. The Dyaks generally wear their best when going out to fight. I asked a Dyak once why this was done, because…most of the finery they put on interfered with the free action of their limbs. His answer was that if they were well dressed, in case of their death, […] the enemy who saw the bodies would know that they were not slaves, but free men of some standing. […] The costume a Dyak wears when going on the warpath consists of a basket-work cap decorated with feathers and sometimes with human hair, a sleeveless skin jacket… [...] [Referring to a description of a visit to an Iban house by Bishop [George Frederick?] Hose, from an article by the latter titled ‘The Contents of a Dyak Medicine-chest’, reproduced in-text]…we were hospitably installed on the ruai, or undivided hall…The good mats were brought down from the sadau, or loft, and spread for us… […] As I [Bishop George(?) Frederick(?) Hose] have said, the good mats of the household, as is usual when it is intended to show respect to a visitor, had been taken down for our accommodation from the place where they are stored. But we now saw that the most valued of them all had been held in reserve. This, which was made of fine and very flexible rotan, the latest triumph of the skill and industry of our courteous hostess, Ipah, Brok’s wife, was now handed down and spread in front of us for the reception of the great man [Brok, the headman] and the mysterious implements of his profession. […] [Referring to an illustration of an Iban man in ‘gala costume’] He has a fringed headkerchief, in which are fixed feathers of the rhinoceros hornbill, and other birds…Round his neck are necklaces of beads…He has shell bracelets…and cane rings on his arms, a large number of palm fibre rings on his wrists…This is the usual dress worn by a Dyak [man] at a feast”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 43]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, pp. 76-78]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 184]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 187]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 326]</a> Various types of body ornaments, mats and baskets, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions. “[The following quotes inferred as applicable to this period according to the date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the description of a ‘Gala costume of a Dyak Lady’, inferred as all locally manufactured] Sugu pirak. Silver-mounted comb. Ensuga tisir. Upper part of the comb. Lilap. Diamond-shaped ornament on the comb. Tusok pending, engkrabu, tensang pending, or sumpin. Earring. Tenggak. Necklace of beads, silver coins, etc. Marik. Beads. M. ampan. Beads threaded and worn in rows down to the breasts. Tumpa. Bracelet or rings of brass on the wrists. T. rangki. Armlet made of a sea shell (rangki). Tinchin tunjok. Finger ring. Rawai. Brass rings threaded upon rotan and worn like a corset round the body from armpit to midway between the waist and the fork. Kenyawir. A diamond-shaped metal ornament tied on the rawai. Ringgit. Dollar coins worn round the waist above the rawai. Segai. A silver, or a silver-coin belt…Sabit. Finely wrought brass chains worn from the waist to the border of the kain [petticoat]. S. pirak. Similar chains but of silver…Slong. Brass rings worn on the legs. […] Bukup (bebukup), a kind of rotan used for making the best (bidai) mats. […] Kalingkang (bekalingkang), a mat a span square with the corners tied up with string [inferred as of local manufacture], used in ceremonies. […] Rundai (berundai), s. a fancy basket [versus other more ‘ordinary’, utilitarian types of basket, inferred as of local manufacture]…part. hanging down… […] Sergandi (besergandi), a small basket [inferred as of local manufacture] that fastened to the end of an upright pole placed in the centre of the covered verandah (ruai) of the house contains an offering of raw rice and the chewing ingredients. It is only used when manang [witch-doctors/‘doctors of magic’] perform the pelian ceremony [to restore the health of a sick person]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 17]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 28]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 71]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 143]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 156]</a> “[The following quotes inferred as applicable to this period according to the date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the ruai or public hall of a ‘long Dyak village house’] Here the women often do their work…the plaiting of mats…The floor is carpeted with thick and heavy mats, made of cane interlaced with narrow strips of beaten bark. Over these are spread other mats of finer texture for visitors to sit upon. […] [Referring to head-hunting and preparations for a war expedition] They would furbish up their arms…and decorate their helmets and war-jackets. The Dyaks generally wear their best when going out to fight. […] The costume a Dyak wears when going on the warpath consists of a [n Iban manufactured-] basket-work cap decorated with feathers and sometimes with human hair, a sleeveless skin jacket… [...] [Referring to a description of a visit to an Iban house by Bishop [George Frederick?] Hose, from an article by the latter titled ‘The Contents of a Dyak Medicine-chest’, reproduced in-text]…we now saw that the most valued of them all [the ‘good mats of the household’] had been held in reserve. This, which was made of fine and very flexible rotan, the latest triumph of the skill and industry of our courteous hostess, Ipah, Brok’s wife, was now handed down and spread in front of us for the reception of the great man [Brok, the headman]... […] [Referring to an illustration of an Iban man in ‘gala costume’ wearing various types of Iban-manufactured ornaments] He has a fringed headkerchief, in which are fixed feathers of the rhinoceros hornbill, and other birds…Round his neck are necklaces of beads…He has shell bracelets…and cane rings on his arms, a large number of palm fibre rings on his wrists…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 43]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 76]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 78]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 187]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 326]</a> Various types of body ornaments, mats and baskets, inferred as ‘luxury’ manufactured goods owing to their being of a high-quality, manufactured by women of high-standing and/or utilised on special occasions. “[The following quotes inferred as applicable to this period according to the date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the description of a ‘Gala costume of a Dyak Lady’] Sugu pirak. Silver-mounted comb. Ensuga tisir. Upper part of the comb. Lilap. Diamond-shaped ornament on the comb. Tusok pending, engkrabu, tensang pending, or sumpin. Earring. Tenggak. Necklace of beads, silver coins, etc. Marik. Beads. M. ampan. Beads threaded and worn in rows down to the breasts. Tumpa. Bracelet or rings of brass on the wrists. T. rangki. Armlet made of a sea shell (rangki). Tinchin tunjok. Finger ring. Rawai. Brass rings threaded upon rotan and worn like a corset round the body from armpit to midway between the waist and the fork. Kenyawir. A diamond-shaped metal ornament tied on the rawai. Ringgit. Dollar coins worn round the waist above the rawai. Segai. A silver, or a silver-coin belt…Sabit. Finely wrought brass chains worn from the waist to the border of the kain [petticoat]. S. pirak. Similar chains but of silver…Slong. Brass rings worn on the legs. […] Kalingkang (bekalingkang), a mat a span square with the corners tied up with string, used in ceremonies. […] Sergandi (besergandi), a small basket that fastened to the end of an upright pole placed in the centre of the covered verandah (ruai) of the house contains an offering of raw rice and the chewing ingredients. It is only used when manang [witch-doctors/‘doctors of magic’] perform the pelian ceremony [to restore the health of a sick person]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 17]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 71]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KHG4BZ2V\">[Howell_Bailey 1900, p. 156]</a> “[The following quotes inferred as applicable to this period according to the date of publication; referring specifically in the first quote to the ruai or public hall of a ‘long Dyak village house’] The floor is carpeted with thick and heavy mats…Over these are spread other mats of finer texture for visitors to sit upon. […] [Referring to head-hunting and preparations for a war expedition] They would furbish up their arms…and decorate their helmets and war-jackets. The Dyaks generally wear their best when going out to fight. I asked a Dyak once why this was done...His answer was that if they were well dressed, in case of their death, […] the enemy who saw the bodies would know that they were not slaves, but free men of some standing. […] The costume a Dyak wears when going on the warpath consists of a basket-work cap decorated with feathers and sometimes with human hair, a sleeveless skin jacket… [...] [Referring to a description of a visit to an Iban house by Bishop [George Frederick?] Hose, from an article by the latter titled ‘The Contents of a Dyak Medicine-chest’, reproduced in-text]…we now saw that the most valued of them all [the ‘good mats of the household’] had been held in reserve. This, which was made of fine and very flexible rotan, the latest triumph of the skill and industry of our courteous hostess, Ipah, Brok’s wife, was now handed down and spread in front of us for the reception of the great man [Brok, the headman]... […] [Referring to an illustration of an Iban man in ‘gala costume’] He has a fringed headkerchief, in which are fixed feathers of the rhinoceros hornbill, and other birds…Round his neck are necklaces of beads…He has shell bracelets…and cane rings on his arms, a large number of palm fibre rings on his wrists…This is the usual dress worn by a Dyak [man] at a feast”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 43]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, pp. 76-78]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 187]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2XPHUITP\">[Gomes 1911, p. 326]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 49,
"polity": {
"id": 111,
"name": "in_achik_1",
"long_name": "Early A'chik",
"start_year": 1775,
"end_year": 1867
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Ornaments obtained from frontier markets. Palanquins. “Apart from necessities, conventional and ceremonial goods, certain luxury items such as ornaments, clothing and accessories like headdresses were also displayed at the frontier markets[…] such as the metal earrings made of bell-metal which were of different designs. Popularly known as shisha, they were the most desired ear ornament worn by women, and as many as fifty or more of such earrings about two inches in diameter, were worn in each ear throughout the hills although the usual number was four in each ear. […] Later during the colonial period, smaller rings made of brass (which were also obtained from the markets) were preferred. Another important metal ornament that was obtained from the Bengal frontier market and used as heir loom was the metal necklace known as the konal or ka∙kam. It was made of brass or silver. It was a necklace of about 5 inches long and wrapped round the neck and tied in a knot behind it. They were worn by both men and women during festive occasions. […] A distinctive ornament such as the jaksil, procured from the frontier markets was valued and esteemed among the people. The jaksil consisted of thick metal, elbow rings, made of iron or brass or even silver. It was worn only by those who had accumulated enough wealth and had earned a status for himself in the village. […] [W]hile the wealthy Garos of the northern and the eastern hills wore the jaksil, the wealthy Garo chiefs of the southern frontier such as Agund made use of palanquins which was a cul tural trait of the wealthy and influential people of the plains.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/95A2TRRK\">[Kar_Marak_Chaudhuri 2020, pp. 717-719]</a> Some luxury goods were exclusive. “A distinctive ornament such as the jaksil, procured from the frontier markets was valued and esteemed among the people. The jaksil consisted of thick metal, elbow rings, made of iron or brass or even silver. It was worn only by those who had accumulated enough wealth and had earned a status for himself in the village. […] [W]hile the wealthy Garos of the northern and the eastern hills wore the jaksil, the wealthy Garo chiefs of the southern frontier such as Agund made use of palanquins which was a cul tural trait of the wealthy and influential people of the plains.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/95A2TRRK\">[Kar_Marak_Chaudhuri 2020, pp. 717-719]</a> Judging from the literature consulted, not all luxury goods were exclusive to people of high status. This is inferred from the fact that the sources consulted only explicitly state that some luxury items were exclusive. “Apart from necessities, conventional and ceremonial goods, certain luxury items such as ornaments, clothing and accessories like headdresses were also displayed at the frontier markets[…] such as the metal earrings made of bell-metal which were of different designs. Popularly known as shisha, they were the most desired ear ornament worn by women, and as many as fifty or more of such earrings about two inches in diameter, were worn in each ear throughout the hills although the usual number was four in each ear. […] Later during the colonial period, smaller rings made of brass (which were also obtained from the markets) were preferred. Another important metal ornament that was obtained from the Bengal frontier market and used as heir loom was the metal necklace known as the konal or ka∙kam. It was made of brass or silver. It was a necklace of about 5 inches long and wrapped round the neck and tied in a knot behind it. They were worn by both men and women during festive occasions. […] A distinctive ornament such as the jaksil, procured from the frontier markets was valued and esteemed among the people. The jaksil consisted of thick metal, elbow rings, made of iron or brass or even silver. It was worn only by those who had accumulated enough wealth and had earned a status for himself in the village. […] [W]hile the wealthy Garos of the northern and the eastern hills wore the jaksil, the wealthy Garo chiefs of the southern frontier such as Agund made use of palanquins which was a cul tural trait of the wealthy and influential people of the plains.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/95A2TRRK\">[Kar_Marak_Chaudhuri 2020, pp. 717-719]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 50,
"polity": {
"id": 112,
"name": "in_achik_2",
"long_name": "Late A'chik",
"start_year": 1867,
"end_year": 1956
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_manufactured_goods",
"comment": "Ornaments obtained from frontier markets. Palanquins. “Apart from necessities, conventional and ceremonial goods, certain luxury items such as ornaments, clothing and accessories like headdresses were also displayed at the frontier markets[…] such as the metal earrings made of bell-metal which were of different designs. Popularly known as shisha, they were the most desired ear ornament worn by women, and as many as fifty or more of such earrings about two inches in diameter, were worn in each ear throughout the hills although the usual number was four in each ear. […] Later during the colonial period, smaller rings made of brass (which were also obtained from the markets) were preferred. Another important metal ornament that was obtained from the Bengal frontier market and used as heir loom was the metal necklace known as the konal or ka∙kam. It was made of brass or silver. It was a necklace of about 5 inches long and wrapped round the neck and tied in a knot behind it. They were worn by both men and women during festive occasions. […] A distinctive ornament such as the jaksil, procured from the frontier markets was valued and esteemed among the people. The jaksil consisted of thick metal, elbow rings, made of iron or brass or even silver. It was worn only by those who had accumulated enough wealth and had earned a status for himself in the village. […] [W]hile the wealthy Garos of the northern and the eastern hills wore the jaksil, the wealthy Garo chiefs of the southern frontier such as Agund made use of palanquins which was a cul tural trait of the wealthy and influential people of the plains.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/95A2TRRK\">[Kar_Marak_Chaudhuri 2020, pp. 717-719]</a> Some luxury goods were exclusive. “A distinctive ornament such as the jaksil, procured from the frontier markets was valued and esteemed among the people. The jaksil consisted of thick metal, elbow rings, made of iron or brass or even silver. It was worn only by those who had accumulated enough wealth and had earned a status for himself in the village. […] [W]hile the wealthy Garos of the northern and the eastern hills wore the jaksil, the wealthy Garo chiefs of the southern frontier such as Agund made use of palanquins which was a cul tural trait of the wealthy and influential people of the plains.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/95A2TRRK\">[Kar_Marak_Chaudhuri 2020, pp. 717-719]</a> Judging from the literature consulted, not all luxury goods were exclusive to people of high status. This is inferred from the fact that the sources consulted only explicitly state that some luxury items were exclusive. “Apart from necessities, conventional and ceremonial goods, certain luxury items such as ornaments, clothing and accessories like headdresses were also displayed at the frontier markets[…] such as the metal earrings made of bell-metal which were of different designs. Popularly known as shisha, they were the most desired ear ornament worn by women, and as many as fifty or more of such earrings about two inches in diameter, were worn in each ear throughout the hills although the usual number was four in each ear. […] Later during the colonial period, smaller rings made of brass (which were also obtained from the markets) were preferred. Another important metal ornament that was obtained from the Bengal frontier market and used as heir loom was the metal necklace known as the konal or ka∙kam. It was made of brass or silver. It was a necklace of about 5 inches long and wrapped round the neck and tied in a knot behind it. They were worn by both men and women during festive occasions. […] A distinctive ornament such as the jaksil, procured from the frontier markets was valued and esteemed among the people. The jaksil consisted of thick metal, elbow rings, made of iron or brass or even silver. It was worn only by those who had accumulated enough wealth and had earned a status for himself in the village. […] [W]hile the wealthy Garos of the northern and the eastern hills wore the jaksil, the wealthy Garo chiefs of the southern frontier such as Agund made use of palanquins which was a cul tural trait of the wealthy and influential people of the plains.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/95A2TRRK\">[Kar_Marak_Chaudhuri 2020, pp. 717-719]</a>",
"description": null
}
]
}