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{
"id": 101,
"polity": {
"id": 691,
"name": "rw_mubari_k",
"long_name": "Mubari",
"start_year": 1700,
"end_year": 1896
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "The following quote seems to suggest there were no luxury fabrics. “Tribute was paid to these courts in the form of labour or in kind (cattle, baskets of provisions, special products such as salt, honey or weapons). The ruling aristocracy could thus extend its influence by redistribution, for there was little luxury (clothing was of skins or bark; local vegetation was used for the construction of residences).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ETKPKNZ2\">[Ogot_et_al 1992, p. 825]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 102,
"polity": {
"id": 689,
"name": "rw_ndorwa_k",
"long_name": "Ndorwa",
"start_year": 1700,
"end_year": 1800
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "The following quote seems to suggest there were no luxury fabrics. “Tribute was paid to these courts in the form of labour or in kind (cattle, baskets of provisions, special products such as salt, honey or weapons). The ruling aristocracy could thus extend its influence by redistribution, for there was little luxury (clothing was of skins or bark; local vegetation was used for the construction of residences).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ETKPKNZ2\">[Ogot_et_al 1992, p. 825]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 103,
"polity": {
"id": 687,
"name": "Early Niynginya",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Nyinginya",
"start_year": 1650,
"end_year": 1897
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "The following quote seems to suggest there were no luxury fabrics. “Tribute was paid to these courts in the form of labour or in kind (cattle, baskets of provisions, special products such as salt, honey or weapons). The ruling aristocracy could thus extend its influence by redistribution, for there was little luxury (clothing was of skins or bark; local vegetation was used for the construction of residences).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ETKPKNZ2\">[Ogot_et_al 1992, p. 825]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 104,
"polity": {
"id": 674,
"name": "se_cayor_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Cayor",
"start_year": 1549,
"end_year": 1864
},
"year_from": 1701,
"year_to": 1864,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘’’ “The Senegambian kingdoms that gained independence from the Empire of Jolof in the mid-sixteenth century were fundamentally African polities. […] As the slave trade came to dominate trade with the European Atlantic powers over the course of the seventeenth century, war became an even more lucrative activity. […] Central to this warfare were the ceddo, a class of slave soldiers under the control of the king. As primary producers of enslaved people for export, they had privileged access to the high-value goods offered by the Europeans on the coast: firearms, utensils, cloth, tobacco, and alcoholic spirits.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MM67I638\">[Bigon_Ross 2020, p. 46]</a> “The king was also to receive six aunes (about eight yards) of a French-made cloth called quintin for each slave and five aunes of the slightly more expensive India cloth. […] [W]omen's acquisition and display of costly goods was part of a general pattern that overlapped with the production and trade of local and foreign textiles in the lower Senegal river valley.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ISEEHI39\">[Benjamin 2016, pp. 45-48]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 105,
"polity": {
"id": 680,
"name": "se_futa_toro_imamate",
"long_name": "Imamate of Futa Toro",
"start_year": 1776,
"end_year": 1860
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Clothing for elite figures such the Almamy, even in a context in which clerics promoted humility through modest forms of dress, would likely have been distinguished by particular forms of tailoring and embroidery not worn by commoners, or by people less accomplished in Islamic scholarship.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ISEEHI39\">[Benjamin 2016, pp. 144-150]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 106,
"polity": {
"id": 679,
"name": "se_jolof_emp",
"long_name": "Jolof Empire",
"start_year": 1360,
"end_year": 1549
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 679,
"name": "se_jolof_emp",
"long_name": "Jolof Empire",
"start_year": 1360,
"end_year": 1549
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ “In Takrur and Jolof the forging of precious metals was a tradition dating back the the kaya tnaghan. The craftsmen of these regions were among the most famous in West Africa. Weaving also flourished; there was considerable trade among the provinces of the empire in rolls of cotton, which were exported to the peoples in the south.“ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ERZKPETN\">[Niane_Unesco 1984, pp. 698-700]</a> ’’’ “In Takrur and Jolof the forging of precious metals was a tradition dating back the the kaya tnaghan. The craftsmen of these regions were among the most famous in West Africa. Weaving also flourished; there was considerable trade among the provinces of the empire in rolls of cotton, which were exported to the peoples in the south.“ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ERZKPETN\">[Niane_Unesco 1984, pp. 698-700]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 107,
"polity": {
"id": 682,
"name": "se_jolof_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Jolof",
"start_year": 1549,
"end_year": 1865
},
"year_from": 1800,
"year_to": 1865,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Europe",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Of the following quotes, the one from Charles (1977) suggests that European luxury fabrics were definitely present in this polity in the 19th century, while the one from Fourshey (2019) suggests that elite Wolof women were involved in the fine textile trade in a vaguely defined “precolonial period”. “Jolof's nobility participated in a trade in luxury items, especially horses. […] By the nineteenth century European trade goods such as rifles, fine cloth, and liquor were also luxury items.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NRGZDV3Z\">[Charles 1977, p. 8]</a> NB The following refers to the “precolonial era”, suggesting it is relevant to this polity. “With strong ties to the powerful and centralized Wolof (Jolof) states of Waalo, Kayor, Baol, Sine, and Saloum, Wolof women had notable impacts on trade relations with Europeans. […] They also held positions in powerful ruling families that gave them entry to a large network from which to draw resources from military forces and highly skilled artisan castes. […] Wolof women broadly were members of these networks and political councils, and female members of the royal family—sisters, wives, aunts, grandmothers, and Queen mothers (linguere)—held power over areas of production as well as people’s lives. They oversaw territory inhabited by people who paid them taxes; monopolized certain domains of luxury trade in the region that included ivory, wax, cloth, baobab fruit, salt, and certain types of fishing; and collected taxes from long-distance traders including foreigners and local agents.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AT6ZQAF3\">[Fourshey 2019]</a> “The Senegambian kingdoms that gained independence from the Empire of Jolof in the mid-sixteenth century were fundamentally African polities. […] As the slave trade came to dominate trade with the European Atlantic powers over the course of the seventeenth century, war became an even more lucrative activity. […] Central to this warfare were the ceddo, a class of slave soldiers under the control of the king. As primary producers of enslaved people for export, they had privileged access to the high-value goods offered by the Europeans on the coast: firearms, utensils, cloth, tobacco, and alcoholic spirits.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MM67I638\">[Bigon_Ross 2020, p. 46]</a> NB Unclear which European countries, exactly, exported fine textiles to the Jolof, based on the literature consulted. “Jolof's nobility participated in a trade in luxury items, especially horses. […] By the nineteenth century European trade goods such as rifles, fine cloth, and liquor were also luxury items.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NRGZDV3Z\">[Charles 1977, p. 8]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 108,
"polity": {
"id": 675,
"name": "se_saloum_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Saloum",
"start_year": 1490,
"end_year": 1863
},
"year_from": 1701,
"year_to": 1864,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘’’ “The Senegambian kingdoms that gained independence from the Empire of Jolof in the mid-sixteenth century were fundamentally African polities. […] As the slave trade came to dominate trade with the European Atlantic powers over the course of the seventeenth century, war became an even more lucrative activity. […] Central to this warfare were the ceddo, a class of slave soldiers under the control of the king. As primary producers of enslaved people for export, they had privileged access to the high-value goods offered by the Europeans on the coast: firearms, utensils, cloth, tobacco, and alcoholic spirits.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MM67I638\">[Bigon_Ross 2020, p. 46]</a> “The king was also to receive six aunes (about eight yards) of a French-made cloth called quintin for each slave and five aunes of the slightly more expensive India cloth. […] [W]omen's acquisition and display of costly goods was part of a general pattern that overlapped with the production and trade of local and foreign textiles in the lower Senegal river valley.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ISEEHI39\">[Benjamin 2016, pp. 45-48]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 109,
"polity": {
"id": 677,
"name": "se_sine_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Sine",
"start_year": 1350,
"end_year": 1887
},
"year_from": 1700,
"year_to": 1887,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Inferred continuity post-17th century. “Contemporary observers also allude to the possibility that local cloth may have embodied forms of social differentiation during the 17th century (de Marees (1602), in de Moraes 1993, 54; Fr Gaspar de Sevilla (1647), in de Moraes 1995, 363; Lemaire 1887, 54–55). Certain garments and textiles seem to have distinguished nobles and elites from commoners, in conformity with many other societies in Africa and elsewhere, where cloth and clothing, by virtue of their pliability, tactility and gradability, and because of their intimate linkages to bodies and selves, constitute veritable ‘social skins’, and were deployed and redeployed as political artefacts in daily negotiations of social geometries (cf. Comaroff 1996; DiPaolo Loren 2001; Hendrickson 1996). “ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8S8332EE\">[Richard 2010, p. 20]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 110,
"polity": {
"id": 621,
"name": "si_sape",
"long_name": "Sape",
"start_year": 1400,
"end_year": 1550
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 621,
"name": "si_sape",
"long_name": "Sape",
"start_year": 1400,
"end_year": 1550
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Beautiful mats were woven, mainly from vegetable fibres. Cotton was available in many areas and this led to the development of textile industry in Sierra Leone. In some areas like Mende country, cotton seed was mixed with rice and broadcast by hand upon the upland rice-fields. Further to the north-east, cotton was extensively grown in Sankaran, Solima, Kono and upper Koranko countries and was an important trade item of that region. The technical skill involved in cloth manufacture was provided by people who had learned the arts of spinning and weaving, and who knew how to extract dyes from vegetable juice such as camwood and indigo. The cloth produced was popularly called 'country cloth' and was a multi-purpose commodity: […] (b) It was used as a currency to buy goods, discharge debts, or pay workers. For example, a carpenter in Mende country was often paid four or five country cloths for building a house. A slave was valued at 20 country cloths. (c) Some wealthy people decorated their parlours or rooms with country cloths. The cloths were also used to decorate chairs used by newly-graduated Bondo girls.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MGRDTDAE\">[Alie 1990, p. 28]</a> “Beautiful mats were woven, mainly from vegetable fibres. Cotton was available in many areas and this led to the development of textile industry in Sierra Leone. In some areas like Mende country, cotton seed was mixed with rice and broadcast by hand upon the upland rice-fields. Further to the north-east, cotton was extensively grown in Sankaran, Solima, Kono and upper Koranko countries and was an important trade item of that region. The technical skill involved in cloth manufacture was provided by people who had learned the arts of spinning and weaving, and who knew how to extract dyes from vegetable juice such as camwood and indigo.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MGRDTDAE\">[Alie 1990, p. 28]</a> “The cloth produced was popularly called 'country cloth' and was a multi-purpose commodity: […] (b) It was used as a currency to buy goods, discharge debts, or pay workers. For example, a carpenter in Mende country was often paid four or five country cloths for building a house. A slave was valued at 20 country cloths. (c) Some wealthy people decorated their parlours or rooms with country cloths. The cloths were also used to decorate chairs used by newly-graduated Bondo girls.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MGRDTDAE\">[Alie 1990, p. 28]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 111,
"polity": {
"id": 633,
"name": "sl_anuradhapura_1",
"long_name": "Anurādhapura I",
"start_year": -300,
"end_year": 70
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "China",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ “From the earliest periods, the inhabitants of Ceylon imported essential goods as well as luxury items. Various types of goods were imported from China during the early period including gold, silver, and copper coins, coloured satin material, coloured silk gauzes and white porcelain ware” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a> NB Unclear which Chinese polities would have exported their wine to Sri Lanka in the period in question. “From the earliest periods, the inhabitants of Ceylon imported essential goods as well as luxury items. Various types of goods were imported from China during the early period including gold, silver, and copper coins, coloured satin material, coloured silk gauzes and white porcelain ware […] Luxury textiles such as silk held a special position among the important items. Textiles had been imported from various countries like India, China and Burma (Siriweera, 2003: 120,121). All of the luxury commodities were intended mainly for the use of royalty and nobles.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a> “Luxury textiles such as silk held a special position among the important items. Textiles had been imported from various countries like India, China and Burma (Siriweera, 2003: 120,121). All of the luxury commodities were intended mainly for the use of royalty and nobles.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 112,
"polity": {
"id": 635,
"name": "sl_anuradhapura_2",
"long_name": "Anurādhapura II",
"start_year": 70,
"end_year": 428
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ “From the earliest periods, the inhabitants of Ceylon imported essential goods as well as luxury items. Various types of goods were imported from China during the early period including gold, silver, and copper coins, coloured satin material, coloured silk gauzes and white porcelain ware <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a> “Luxury textiles such as silk held a special position among the important items. Textiles had been imported from various countries like India, China and Burma (Siriweera, 2003: 120,121). All of the luxury commodities were intended mainly for the use of royalty and nobles.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 113,
"polity": {
"id": 631,
"name": "sl_anuradhapura_3",
"long_name": "Anurādhapura III",
"start_year": 428,
"end_year": 614
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ “From the earliest periods, the inhabitants of Ceylon imported essential goods as well as luxury items. Various types of goods were imported from China during the early period including gold, silver, and copper coins, coloured satin material, coloured silk gauzes and white porcelain ware <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a> “Luxury textiles such as silk held a special position among the important items. Textiles had been imported from various countries like India, China and Burma (Siriweera, 2003: 120,121). All of the luxury commodities were intended mainly for the use of royalty and nobles.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 114,
"polity": {
"id": 629,
"name": "sl_anuradhapura_4",
"long_name": "Anurādhapura IV",
"start_year": 614,
"end_year": 1017
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ “From the earliest periods, the inhabitants of Ceylon imported essential goods as well as luxury items. Various types of goods were imported from China during the early period including gold, silver, and copper coins, coloured satin material, coloured silk gauzes and white porcelain ware <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a> “Luxury textiles such as silk held a special position among the important items. Textiles had been imported from various countries like India, China and Burma (Siriweera, 2003: 120,121). All of the luxury commodities were intended mainly for the use of royalty and nobles.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DIXQVS4Q\">[Sudharmawathei 2017, p. 194]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 115,
"polity": {
"id": 639,
"name": "so_ajuran_sultanate",
"long_name": "Ajuran Sultanate",
"start_year": 1250,
"end_year": 1700
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "India",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "The following is a summary of Ibn Battuta’s account of the Sheikh’s activities following Friday Prayer. Ibn Battuta visited Mogadishu in 1331. The quote suggests that the sultan’s clothes may have been especially high-quality, suggesting access to luxury fabrics. “The Sheikh walks beneath the silk canopy with golden birds atop the poles which supported it; in the audience hall, which sounds to have been a more or less large chamber, he sits on a carpet. From this, and the account of his clothes, as well as the description of those given to Ibn Battuta, we get the impression of considerable wealth, if not luxury.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UVKXP7A9\">[Chittick 1982, pp. 50-51]</a> The literature consulted does not specify which Indian polity exported the luxury good in question to the sultanate. “Pankhurst mentions ships from the Indies loaded with incense, pepper and cloth (Pankhurst 1974, p. 186)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MTM7PUVQ\">[Jama 1996, p. 86]</a> Note, too, that a local weaving tradition was present, though the literature consulted does not confirm whether its products were considered luxurious within the sultanate itself. “Battuta also mentions the local textile industry, known as 'Benadiri', reporting that Mogadishu already had an artisan caste of weavers. This local cloth, which still exists, was sold in the interior in exchange for food, and it was also carried by traders as far as the ports of Egypt (Mohanunadain 1983; Hersi 1977).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MTM7PUVQ\">[Jama 1996, pp. 87-88]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 116,
"polity": {
"id": 642,
"name": "so_geledi_sultanate",
"long_name": "Sultanate of Geledi",
"start_year": 1750,
"end_year": 1911
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Also imported were the kerchiefs with which married women covered their heads; these were either a coarse black or dark blue gauze, or, for those who could afford them, silk squares with a red and black pattern from India (Ferrandi p.363).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3VINCVDJ\">[Luling 1971, p. 74]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 117,
"polity": {
"id": 640,
"name": "so_habr_yunis",
"long_name": "Habr Yunis",
"start_year": 1300,
"end_year": 1886
},
"year_from": 1800,
"year_to": 1886,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
},
{
"id": 786,
"name": "gb_british_emp_2",
"long_name": "British Empire II",
"start_year": 1850,
"end_year": 1968
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "A~P",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The same thirty or so cloth types were sought by élites, and, increasingly, the general population, across the vast area of Sub-Saharan eastern Africa engaged in the export trade in ivory, slaves, gum copal and spices which, at its peak in the 1870s, radiated from Zanzibar to Somalia in the north, to Mozambique in the south, as far west as Uganda and east to Madagascar and the Comoros Islands. Called ‘cloths with names’ by the Swahili, these luxury textiles made up a small part of cloth imports, from 6 per cent to 25 per cent of value depending on the time and place; yet they were indispensable to the social relations upon which trade depended. […] Approaching the category of luxury textiles requires an understanding of its foil: common or coarse cotton cloths. As the export ivory trade in particular expanded far into the interior of eastern Africa in the nineteenth century, rising wealth and changing fashions led increasing numbers of people to give up their local barkcloth or hide dress for imported woven cloth. Studies have shown that the bulk of it — c. 51 per cent in amount and value — consisted in plain-weave, unbleached cotton yardage. Worn as rectangular body wrappers, the cloth served as dress for rural dwellers and the urban poor (Fig. 1), with certain specific varieties used in some areas as a commodity currency for obtaining labour, food and local commodities.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a> “Employing archival, object, image and field research, this study shows that the majority of ‘cloths with names’, including the déolé, were striped cotton and silk textiles handwoven in Oman and western India.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a>",
"description": ""
},
{
"id": 118,
"polity": {
"id": 646,
"name": "so_ifat_sultanate",
"long_name": "Ifat Sultanate",
"start_year": 1280,
"end_year": 1375
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 232,
"name": "eg_mamluk_sultanate_1",
"long_name": "Egypt - Mamluk Sultanate I",
"start_year": 1260,
"end_year": 1348
},
{
"id": 172,
"name": "ir_il_khanate",
"long_name": "Ilkhanate",
"start_year": 1256,
"end_year": 1339
},
{
"id": 368,
"name": "ye_rasulid_dyn",
"long_name": "Rasulid Dynasty",
"start_year": 1229,
"end_year": 1453
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“A detailed account of Ifat in the aftermath of all this fighting was written shortly after ‘Amdä Seyon’s death by an Egyptian courtier, Ibn Fadl Allah al-‘Umäri. […] As for dress al-‘Umäri reports that the sultan customarily wore a silk headband around his head, while amirs and soldiers had ones of cotton.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F5TE8HH5\">[Pankhurst 1997, p. 47]</a> The following quote refers to the Horn of Africa in the 14th century. The Sultanate of Ifat is name-checked a few paragraphs beforehand as one of the foremost Muslim polities in the region. “The Christian king, Amda-Siyon, not only wanted to monopolize the commerce, the principal source of strength for the Muslim leaders, but also wanted to deprive the Muslim leaders of essential commodities such as imported iron weapons. However, the Muslim rulers, whose whole wealth was derived from the lucrative trade, and who were notoriously addicted to refined and \"effeminate luxuries\", could by no means dispense with the importation of costly and elegant foreign goods, and were deter mined to resist the king’s threat to the core of their luxurious life. The luxury articles which were imported and enjoyed by the Muslim rulers were envied by the rapidly expanding Christian Amhara ruling class. These foreign goods became necessary to feed the pleasures and maintain the grandeur of a kingdom, glutted to satiety with the success of conquest. The imports consisted mainly of silk and fine dresses, iron weapons, spices and a few luxury items, which the king distributed to raise the morale of his best warriors.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F5RPUR5M\">[Hassen 1983, p. 10]</a> “Imports are known from archaeological research and literary sources: Al-‘Umari (d. 1349), for instance, reported that the Sultanate of Ifat acquired silk and linen fabrics from Egypt, Yemen, and Iraq.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N2K3MNAX\">[González-Ruibal 2015]</a> “Shirts and sown clothes were rare, for most people covered themselves only with a loin-cloth. Soldiers, on the other hand, wore trousers. Some scholars and the well-to-do also had shirts, but most people wore nothing but two simple pieces of cloth, one round the shoulders, the other round the waist.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F5TE8HH5\">[Pankhurst 1997, p. 47]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 119,
"polity": {
"id": 654,
"name": "so_isaaq_sultanate",
"long_name": "Isaaq Sultanate",
"start_year": 1300,
"end_year": 1886
},
"year_from": 1800,
"year_to": 1886,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
},
{
"id": 786,
"name": "gb_british_emp_2",
"long_name": "British Empire II",
"start_year": 1850,
"end_year": 1968
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "A~P",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The same thirty or so cloth types were sought by élites, and, increasingly, the general population, across the vast area of Sub-Saharan eastern Africa engaged in the export trade in ivory, slaves, gum copal and spices which, at its peak in the 1870s, radiated from Zanzibar to Somalia in the north, to Mozambique in the south, as far west as Uganda and east to Madagascar and the Comoros Islands. Called ‘cloths with names’ by the Swahili, these luxury textiles made up a small part of cloth imports, from 6 per cent to 25 per cent of value depending on the time and place; yet they were indispensable to the social relations upon which trade depended. […] Approaching the category of luxury textiles requires an understanding of its foil: common or coarse cotton cloths. As the export ivory trade in particular expanded far into the interior of eastern Africa in the nineteenth century, rising wealth and changing fashions led increasing numbers of people to give up their local barkcloth or hide dress for imported woven cloth. Studies have shown that the bulk of it — c. 51 per cent in amount and value — consisted in plain-weave, unbleached cotton yardage. Worn as rectangular body wrappers, the cloth served as dress for rural dwellers and the urban poor (Fig. 1), with certain specific varieties used in some areas as a commodity currency for obtaining labour, food and local commodities.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a> “Employing archival, object, image and field research, this study shows that the majority of ‘cloths with names’, including the déolé, were striped cotton and silk textiles handwoven in Oman and western India.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a>",
"description": ""
},
{
"id": 120,
"polity": {
"id": 648,
"name": "so_majeerteen_sultanate",
"long_name": "Majeerteen Sultanate",
"start_year": 1750,
"end_year": 1926
},
"year_from": 1800,
"year_to": 1926,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
},
{
"id": 786,
"name": "gb_british_emp_2",
"long_name": "British Empire II",
"start_year": 1850,
"end_year": 1968
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "A~P",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The same thirty or so cloth types were sought by élites, and, increasingly, the general population, across the vast area of Sub-Saharan eastern Africa engaged in the export trade in ivory, slaves, gum copal and spices which, at its peak in the 1870s, radiated from Zanzibar to Somalia in the north, to Mozambique in the south, as far west as Uganda and east to Madagascar and the Comoros Islands. Called ‘cloths with names’ by the Swahili, these luxury textiles made up a small part of cloth imports, from 6 per cent to 25 per cent of value depending on the time and place; yet they were indispensable to the social relations upon which trade depended. […] Approaching the category of luxury textiles requires an understanding of its foil: common or coarse cotton cloths. As the export ivory trade in particular expanded far into the interior of eastern Africa in the nineteenth century, rising wealth and changing fashions led increasing numbers of people to give up their local barkcloth or hide dress for imported woven cloth. Studies have shown that the bulk of it — c. 51 per cent in amount and value — consisted in plain-weave, unbleached cotton yardage. Worn as rectangular body wrappers, the cloth served as dress for rural dwellers and the urban poor (Fig. 1), with certain specific varieties used in some areas as a commodity currency for obtaining labour, food and local commodities.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a> “Employing archival, object, image and field research, this study shows that the majority of ‘cloths with names’, including the déolé, were striped cotton and silk textiles handwoven in Oman and western India.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a>",
"description": ""
},
{
"id": 121,
"polity": {
"id": 638,
"name": "so_tunni_sultanate",
"long_name": "Tunni Sultanate",
"start_year": 800,
"end_year": 1200
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ The Tunni Sultanate appears to be an especially obscure polity, with barely information easily available on it anywhere in the relevant literature.",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 122,
"polity": {
"id": 44,
"name": "th_ayutthaya",
"long_name": "Ayutthaya",
"start_year": 1593,
"end_year": 1767
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 409,
"name": "bd_bengal_sultanate",
"long_name": "Bengal Sultanate",
"start_year": 1338,
"end_year": 1538
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The goods carried from China to Siam in the early eighteenth century included metals, cane sugar, tools, copper basins and pails, crockery, silks, sweetmeats, dried fruits, dyes, gums, and thread – mostly consumer goods, suggesting that the city was not only growing but prospering.’’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IGUABSUR\">[Baker_Phongpaichit 2017]</a> ’ Using information from the Portuguese sea-captains and envoys sent to explore the region after 1511, Duarte Barbosa reported that the Ayutthaya ruler controlled ports on both sides of the peninsula, especially Tenasserim, Mergui, Kedah, and Selangor, to which ships from Arabia and Bengal brought copper, quicksilver, vermilion, cloth, silk, saffron, coral, and opium.’’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IGUABSUR\">[Baker_Phongpaichit 2017]</a> “The palace housed several other storehouses for valuable goods including European articles imported from Dutch Batavia, porcelain from China, silks from Japan, and other textiles from India.’’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IGUABSUR\">[Baker_Phongpaichit 2017]</a> Ma Huan’s account of the ruler and his residence is also strikingly modest: The house in which the king resides is rather elegant, neat and clean …As to the king’s dress: he uses a white cloth to wind round his head; on the upper [part of his body] he wears no garment; [and] round the lower [part he wears] a silk-embroidered kerchief, adding a waist-band of brocaded silk gauze. ‘’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IGUABSUR\">[Baker_Phongpaichit 2017]</a> ‘’ Using information from the Portuguese sea-captains and envoys sent to explore the region after 1511, Duarte Barbosa reported that the Ayutthaya ruler controlled ports on both sides of the peninsula, especially Tenasserim, Mergui, Kedah, and Selangor, to which ships from Arabia and Bengal brought copper, quicksilver, vermilion, cloth, silk, saffron, coral, and opium.’’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IGUABSUR\">[Baker_Phongpaichit 2017]</a> Empty_Description",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 123,
"polity": {
"id": 175,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_2",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire II",
"start_year": 1517,
"end_year": 1683
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 175,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_2",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire II",
"start_year": 1517,
"end_year": 1683
},
{
"id": 545,
"name": "it_venetian_rep_4",
"long_name": "Republic of Venice IV",
"start_year": 1564,
"end_year": 1797
},
{
"id": 374,
"name": "ir_safavid_emp",
"long_name": "Safavid Empire",
"start_year": 1501,
"end_year": 1722
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Russia; Florence; India",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Gold brocades and velvets, and silk fabrics woven in Amasaya, a city on the silk route from Iran, were shipped through Sinop to Caffa. These goods were famous everywhere, creating a demand even within the Ottoman Palace […]. In Ottoman court ceremonial the presentation of costly fur was a mark of the highest favour and honour [...]. When the rulers of Muskovy [in Russia] made fur trade a monopoly, the Ottoman sultan appointed a special Palace merchant, with credentials for the tsar, to purchase furs. In 1577, for example, the Sultan dispatched to Moscow a certain Mstafa Celebi, with four thousand gold ducats to buy furs. The tsar similarly sent his own representatives to Turkey to buy heavy gold brocades from Bursa. In 1512 a Russian merchant bought eight hundred gold ducats worth of silk and taffeta” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MXZ7DKD8\">[Halil 1994, pp. 130-132]</a> “In addition to the inter-relationships between urban and courtly milieus, among luxury textiles Italian imports played a significant role. Velvets, gold brocaded silks and satins were produced in Bursa but also imported particularly from Venice and Florence. Documents also mention Indian and Damascene textiles. At times created in response to specifications from Istanbul, Italian luxury fabrics were in vogue particularly for the imperial wardrobe and palace furnishings. Silks with complex ogival patterns that re-interpreted, and at times Ottomanised, the compositions of highly prestigious Italian velvets soon appealed to wealthy buyers alongside velvets and brocades in traditional “three dot” ( benek ) and “wavy stripe” ( pelenk nakış ) patterns” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NKDMFK64\">[Kafescioğlu 2012, p. 481]</a> \"Gold brocades and velvets, and silk fabrics woven in Amasaya, a city on the silk route from Iran, were shipped through Sinop to Caffa. These goods were famous everywhere, creating a demand even within the Ottoman Palace […]. In Ottoman court ceremonial the presentation of costly fur was a mark of the highest favour and honour [...]. When the rulers of Muskovy [in Russia] made fur trade a monopoly, the Ottoman sultan appointed a special Palace merchant, with credentials for the tsar, to purchase furs. In 1577, for example, the Sultan dispatched to Moscow a certain Mstafa Celebi, with four thousand gold ducats to buy furs. The tsar similarly sent his own representatives to Turkey to buy heavy gold brocades from Bursa. In 1512 a Russian merchant bought eight hundred gold ducats worth of silk and taffeta” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MXZ7DKD8\">[Halil 1994, pp. 130-132]</a> “At this time [the late 1500s], the premier city of Anatolia was Bursa, which held a population of about 65,000, and a sizeable number of its inhabitants made a living from the textile industry. Here merchants and weavers obtained Iranian raw silk that they transformed into the precious fabrics demanded at the Ottoman court”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9AH3EFTX\">[Faroqhi 2013, p. 481]</a> “Like İznik and Kütahya ceramics or Bursa silks and velvets, the carpet production of Uşak and Bergama was highly varied in quality, size and dominant decorative aesthetic. These same centres -and different workshops within them – catered both to the local and/or inter-regional market and the sultan’s court. Patterns of courtly commission and supervision over artisanal production during these decades, on the other hand, continue to escape us” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9AH3EFTX\">[Faroqhi 2013, p. 485]</a> “The presentation of precious objects became integral to norms and practices of gift-giving embedded within a complex web of courtly patronage, and in fact in the very fabric of courtly social and political interaction. A closely related practice, namely the bestowal of robes of honour ( hilat ) on dignitaries, ambassadors, courtiers and artists, created a considerable demand for luxury textiles. Of varying quality and meaning in different contexts, conferring hilat was at all times a means of confirming rank and status” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9AH3EFTX\">[Faroqhi 2013, p. 486]</a> “The presentation of precious objects became integral to norms and practices of gift-giving embedded within a complex web of courtly patronage, and in fact in the very fabric of courtly social and political interaction. A closely related practice, namely the bestowal of robes of honour ( hilat ) on dignitaries, ambassadors, courtiers and artists, created a considerable demand for luxury textiles. Of varying quality and meaning in different contexts, conferring hilat was at all times a means of confirming rank and status (Faroqhi 2012: 486). <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9AH3EFTX\">[Faroqhi 2013, pp. 356-404]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 124,
"polity": {
"id": 176,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_3",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire III",
"start_year": 1683,
"end_year": 1839
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 98,
"name": "in_mughal_emp",
"long_name": "Mughal Empire",
"start_year": 1526,
"end_year": 1858
},
{
"id": 176,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_3",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire III",
"start_year": 1683,
"end_year": 1839
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "East India Company",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“As a rule, the various military corps and other categories of Ottoman officials were entitled to special cuts and fabrics whose use was denied the common population. Luxury textiles like brocades, fine velvet, and silveror gold-threaded silks (kemha, fatma, seraser) as well as furs like sable, ermine, fox, and lynx were reserved for the highest officials, \"grand vezirs, great mollas, and ranking government officers,\" as the decrees usually put it. Since the highest officials, not to mention the imperial family itself, were Muslim, the regulation in theory restricted the rarest and costliest merchandise to Muslims, at least insofar as outdoor garb was concerned. On the whole, commoners, both Muslim and non-Muslim, seem to have honored the status divide by staying clear of the official elites' clothing insignias” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5TVBBDP4\">[Zilfi 2000, p. 298]</a> “From India, the Ottoman Empire bought pharmaceuticals, perfumes, and precious stones but its main trade was in spices, indigo, and cloth […[. Indigo, a dye essential to the Ottoman textile industry, came from the Agra region in the 17th century and in the 18th century from the factories established by the English in Bengal. Cloth also constituted a major part of the merchandise imported from India, especially muslins-a light, thin cotton cloth-and printing calicos-cotton prints with floral and other patterns. The most luxurious were painted by hand; the others were painted by using carved boards applied successively. Finally, the magnificent cashmere woollen shawls were among the luxury items imported products[…]. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SJTXCVQ7\">[Panzac 1992, p. 190]</a> “Ottoman imports[from the Mediterranean] were composed mainly of manufactured products: especially woolen fabrics but also gold brocade and Tunisian-style caps, metal and mechanical goods, paper, and other products. The third group consisted of products tha came from the European colonies in America: dyes (especially indigo and cochineal), sugar, and coffee” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SJTXCVQ7\">[Panzac 1992, p. 191]</a> “Venice, particularly, despite frequent interruptions due to open conflicts with the Ottomans, maintained a prominent position in the Western trade of the empire, with a solid implantation in major urban centres and a predominance of its high-quality cloth on the local market for luxury textiles.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GJAP2FNN\">[Faroqhi 2006, p. 13]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 125,
"polity": {
"id": 177,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_4",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire IV",
"start_year": 1839,
"end_year": 1922
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 177,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_4",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire IV",
"start_year": 1839,
"end_year": 1922
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Europe",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "““[Over the course of the nineteenth century] Social status was being contested in the clothing competitions of the public spaces. While the fez and frock became the standard attire of the official classes, the non-Muslims led the way in wearing elegant, expensive, up-to-the minute fashions from Paris” (Quataert 2000: 155) <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7UM53M9J\">[Quataert 2005]</a> “In some professions, re-orientation in production was feasible, and local manufacturers directed their production toward the new fashions. Some tailors, for instance, followed the lead of the small number of European dressmakers working in Istanbul and made large fortunes by selling their own designs. Most of them, however, were unable to compete in a market dominated by the “cheap and elegant” ready-to-wear European clothes. In other areas of local production, European competition allowed much less room. The once powerful and wealthy Christian guilds of fur processor sand woolen-cloth makers (abaci) rapidly dwindled in Istanbul when the demand for European style overcoats replaced local ones. The early impact of European competition took a heavy toll on Ottoman manufacturers, although it did not bring about the total eclipse of local manufacturing. [...]. The demand for Western products for clothing or home furnishings, along with the demand for services, such as interior decoration, European-language lessons, and piano and dancing classes, were related to the reshaping of social boundaries in a period of high social mobility. Material and cultural products of Western origin were used—at least, to a degree—to mark the boundaries dividing middle-class families from other urban groups.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IE68XZC8\">[Exertzoglou 0, pp. 80-81]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 126,
"polity": {
"id": 696,
"name": "tz_buhayo_k",
"long_name": "Buhaya",
"start_year": 1700,
"end_year": 1890
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Bark cloth. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 127,
"polity": {
"id": 716,
"name": "tz_early_tana_1",
"long_name": "Early Tana 1",
"start_year": 500,
"end_year": 749
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 716,
"name": "tz_early_tana_1",
"long_name": "Early Tana 1",
"start_year": 500,
"end_year": 749
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Imports along the east African coast included fine metalwork and cloth; beads of glass and gold; glass vials for ointments or perfumes; storage jars containing oils or syrups; and decorated bowls probably sought as prestigious display pottery.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/EEK9BPGI\">[Pollard_Kinyera 2017, p. 933]</a> “Archaeological evidence reveals that long-distance trade in luxury goods was a feature of coastal life before it was densely settled, and before Islam became a factor in trade relations (e.g., Casson 1989; Chami and Msemwa 1997; Juma 2004). So too was local manufacturing, including the working of metals (e.g., gold, copper and its alloys), stone (e.g., rock crystal, carnelian), and fibers (e.g., cotton) part of coastal life, such that for a number of classes of elite objects, local craftsmanship which developed from a knowledge of the import must be considered (see Table 1).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CQWNU8VF\">[LaViolette 2008, pp. 33-34]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 128,
"polity": {
"id": 717,
"name": "tz_early_tana_2",
"long_name": "Early Tana 2",
"start_year": 750,
"end_year": 999
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 717,
"name": "tz_early_tana_2",
"long_name": "Early Tana 2",
"start_year": 750,
"end_year": 999
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Howard Brown claims there was a flourishing cloth industry in the northern Swahili area from the ninth century, especially at Siyu, and also embroidered cloths and fine silks from Pate Island in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. He thinks that foreign competition from India undermined this.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/VBIG8HRB\">[Pearson 1998, p. 123]</a> “Imports along the east African coast included fine metalwork and cloth; beads of glass and gold; glass vials for ointments or perfumes; storage jars containing oils or syrups; and decorated bowls probably sought as prestigious display pottery.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/EEK9BPGI\">[Pollard_Kinyera 2017, p. 933]</a> “Archaeological evidence reveals that long-distance trade in luxury goods was a feature of coastal life before it was densely settled, and before Islam became a factor in trade relations (e.g., Casson 1989; Chami and Msemwa 1997; Juma 2004). So too was local manufacturing, including the working of metals (e.g., gold, copper and its alloys), stone (e.g., rock crystal, carnelian), and fibers (e.g., cotton) part of coastal life, such that for a number of classes of elite objects, local craftsmanship which developed from a knowledge of the import must be considered (see Table 1).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CQWNU8VF\">[LaViolette 2008, pp. 33-34]</a> “The emergence of Swahili cities was as much global as it was a regional and local process. Building primarily upon regional exchange networks during the Age of Trade and the mid-first millennium ce, the coastal elite of the eighth–tenth centuries emerged as effective managers of a complex social economy within the Age of Commerce in the Indian Ocean trade. They engaged in production and exchange of both value-added and raw commodities that had global acclaim, especially high quality iron and ivory, and built a cloth production-exchange complex using both local cotton and imported South Asian cloth.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/98GIT6BK\">[Oka 2018, p. 426]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 129,
"polity": {
"id": 715,
"name": "tz_east_africa_ia_1",
"long_name": "Early East Africa Iron Age",
"start_year": 200,
"end_year": 499
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘‘‘ No information could be found in the literature regarding the trade in or consumption of luxury goods in this era.",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 130,
"polity": {
"id": 686,
"name": "tz_karagwe_k",
"long_name": "Karagwe",
"start_year": 1500,
"end_year": 1916
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Bark cloth. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 131,
"polity": {
"id": 710,
"name": "tz_tana",
"long_name": "Classic Tana",
"start_year": 1000,
"end_year": 1498
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silk; cotton. “Moreover, during the eleventh-century Chinese maritime expansion, more than 200 billion coins streamed out of China to become hard currency in East and Southeast Asia. To stop the overseas flow of costly metals, the Southern Song Government promoted overseas trading with silk textiles, ceramics, lacquer and other commodities.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UTT8K4EQ\">[Zhao_et_al 2018, p. 438]</a> “The Swahili coast was now fully transformed into an active semi-periphery, especially as of the thirteenth century. While importing goods from the cores, the Swahili also developed their own manufacturing centres, notably involving textiles: fabrics were exported to the hinterland, the Comoros and Madagascar.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ATUP3H68\">[Beaujard_Wynne-Jones_LaViolette 2018, p. 371]</a> “During the early thirteenth century, Chinese writer Zhao Rugua noted that, each year, the ports of Gujarat and Arabia sent ships to Zanzibar, carrying cotton fabrics, copper and porcelain.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ATUP3H68\">[Beaujard_Wynne-Jones_LaViolette 2018, pp. 372-373]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 132,
"polity": {
"id": 683,
"name": "ug_buganda_k_2",
"long_name": "Buganda II",
"start_year": 1717,
"end_year": 1894
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 686,
"name": "tz_karagwe_k",
"long_name": "Karagwe",
"start_year": 1500,
"end_year": 1916
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“What is notable about the surge in long-distance commerce under Kyabaggu and Semakokiro is the apparent increase in luxury items which now came to characterise the trade. These goods were possibly designed to appeal to the governing rather than the governed of the interior; but whether by design or not, the novelty goods and finery from the coast excited the avarice of African elites and marked a shift from trade between small-scale indigenous merchants to trade aimed at the heart of political establishments. In Buganda, successive rulers sought to gain control of such goods with an intensity which does not appear to have been characteristic of the earlier period of indirect contact. It would be more than a hundred years before cotton cloth was anything like a common commodity in the kingdom. In the late eighteenth century, such long-distance commerce entered a rather more exclusive phase: comparatively great wealth and, perhaps more importantly, political position were required in order to participate. This was not always the case: it is likely that this kind of commerce continued to affect and involve smaller-scale Ganda traders. But it was in general more elitist than previously. Cotton cloth provides a good example of this process. It remained relatively uncommon on the one hand for a very practical reason, namely the fact that it was several decades before the coastal merchants were carrying much to Buganda. On the other hand, it is clear that successive rulers perceived ownership of the cloth as a useful way of accentuating their wealth, power and privilege, in much the same way that certain skins - notably that of the leopard - were emblems of royalty. Cloth was a prestige good, and the kabaka made strenuous efforts to control not only its importation, but its subsequent distribution.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KGDGERZ2\">[Reid 0, p. 129]</a> “Clearly, the Ganda were still relying solely on trade with other Africans, in the first instance the merchants of Karagwe; indeed, the 'middleman period' of East Africa's commercial history never really ended, although the penetration of the Arabs into the interior in the early nineteenth century was in part an attempt to avoid having to rely on African suppliers.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KGDGERZ2\">[Reid 0, p. 128]</a> “On the other hand, it is clear that successive rulers perceived ownership of the cloth as a useful way of accentuating their wealth, power and privilege, in much the same way that certain skins - notably that of the leopard - were emblems of royalty. Cloth was a prestige good, and the kabaka made strenuous efforts to control not only its importation, but its subsequent distribution.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KGDGERZ2\">[Reid 0, p. 129]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 133,
"polity": {
"id": 535,
"name": "ug_bunyoro_k_2",
"long_name": "Bito Dynasty",
"start_year": 1700,
"end_year": 1894
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Bark cloth. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 134,
"polity": {
"id": 695,
"name": "ug_nkore_k_2",
"long_name": "Nkore",
"start_year": 1750,
"end_year": 1901
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Bark cloth. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 135,
"polity": {
"id": 684,
"name": "ug_toro_k",
"long_name": "Toro",
"start_year": 1830,
"end_year": 1896
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 690,
"name": "bu_burundi_k",
"long_name": "Burundi",
"start_year": 1680,
"end_year": 1903
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Bark cloth. “That ordinary people wore animal skins has been well documented by travelers’ reports and local oral testimony. Elite individuals, by contrast, wore garments of pounded, softened tree bark. Highland Burundi, graced with rich forests, was a major producer of these garments, which commanded a high cost in local trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKP4IB6W\">[Wagner 1993, pp. 158-159]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 136,
"polity": {
"id": 102,
"name": "us_haudenosaunee_2",
"long_name": "Haudenosaunee Confederacy - Late",
"start_year": 1714,
"end_year": 1848
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 102,
"name": "us_haudenosaunee_2",
"long_name": "Haudenosaunee Confederacy - Late",
"start_year": 1714,
"end_year": 1848
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silk; satin; other high-quality fabrics acquired via Europe or elsewhere; high-quality indigenous fabrics. “Before the American Revolution, many of the Mohawks had lived in greater comfort than…struggling white settlers. Thus the whites were only too pleased to loot Indian homes. A cursory glance at some of the articles taken in these raids reflects the wealth of these Indian communities…Among the things whites took were “…several silk Gowns” (Johansen and Grinde, 54). […] [Referring to Tiyanoga (c.1680-1755), a Mohawk leader and member of the Wolf Clan known as ‘Hendrick’ by the English] Well known as a man of distinction in his manners and dress, Hendrick visited England again in 1740. At that time, King George II presented him with an […] ornate green coat of satin, fringed with gold, which Hendrick was fond of wearing in combination with his traditional Mohawk ceremonial clothing…Hector St. Jean de Crevecoeur…described Hendrick in late middle age, preparing for dinner at the [Sir William] Johnson estate, within a few years of the Albany Congress: “[He] wished to appear at his very best…Wearing…a crimson vest and a blue cloak adorned with sparkling gold, Hendrick, as was his custom, shunned European breeches for a loincloth [of indigenous origin]…(Crevecoeur [1926], 170)””. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9CANBIQJ\">[Johansen_Mann 2000, p. 32]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9CANBIQJ\">[Johansen_Mann 2000, pp. 157-158]</a> “Silk had come into use by the latter part of the eighteenth century…silk…[was] used in decorating broadcloth garments, which had been the accepted costume of the more prosperous Iroquois since the beginning of the nineteenth century”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKBQW4BG\">[Lyford 1957, p. 20]</a> Silk; satin; other high-quality fabrics acquired via Europe or elsewhere; high-quality indigenous fabrics. “[Referring to Tiyanoga (c.1680-1755), a Mohawk leader and member of the Wolf Clan known as ‘Hendrick’ by the English] Well known as a man of distinction in his manners and dress, Hendrick visited England again in 1740. At that time, King George II presented him with an […] ornate green coat of satin, fringed with gold, which Hendrick was fond of wearing in combination with his traditional Mohawk ceremonial clothing…Hector St. Jean de Crevecoeur…described Hendrick in late middle age, preparing for dinner at the [Sir William] Johnson estate, within a few years of the Albany Congress: “[He] wished to appear at his very best…Wearing…a crimson vest and a blue cloak adorned with sparkling gold, Hendrick, as was his custom, shunned European breeches for a loincloth [of indigenous origin]…(Crevecoeur [1926], 170)””. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9CANBIQJ\">[Johansen_Mann 2000, pp. 157-158]</a> “…silk…[was] used in decorating broadcloth garments, which had been the accepted costume of the more prosperous Iroquois since the beginning of the nineteenth century”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KKBQW4BG\">[Lyford 1957, p. 20]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 137,
"polity": {
"id": 20,
"name": "us_kamehameha_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Hawaii - Kamehameha Period",
"start_year": 1778,
"end_year": 1819
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 20,
"name": "us_kamehameha_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Hawaii - Kamehameha Period",
"start_year": 1778,
"end_year": 1819
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Feathered apparel, imported fabrics. “[Referring to elite art and craft specialization during the contact period] Despite [Hawaiian craftsmen having a limited range of materials with which to work]…they produced spectacular objects of great sophistication, most notably in featherwork (Brigham 1899)…cloaks or capes covered in feathers are known from just three Eastern Polynesian societies…[including] Hawai‘i. Based on careful analysis of the techniques used in [the] production of these capes, Buck concluded that…“the Hawaiians should be given credit for having invented their own feather capes and cloaks” (1957: 216). Moreover, no other Polynesian society elaborated or perfected the art of featherwork to the extent found in late Hawaiian society. [Captain James] Cook’s company…[were] deeply impressed by the feathered cloaks as well as helmets worn by Hawaiian elite men…Both Samwell and Lt. James King describe the variation in length and styles of capes and cloaks, noting that these correspond to gradations in chiefly rank (Beaglehole 1967: 1179, 1392)…brilliant yellow and red feathers…were obtained from several species of endemic forest birds… […] Obtaining these feathers was the work of bird-hunting specialists who frequented the mountainous interiors of the islands, trapping the birds with sticky lime placed strategically on tree branches, or by netting them. The capes and cloaks, called ‘ahu‘ula in Hawaiian, were manufactured exclusively by male craftsmen, “so as to further mark the distinction against women”, who were prohibited from wearing these articles (Buck 1957: 217)…Chiefs of various ranks wore rectangular or circular capes, but only the highest-ranking elites - in particular the divine king - was permitted to wear a full-length cloak extending from the neck… […] [This cloak comprised of an]…estimated 450,000 feathers of the rare yellow mamo bird (with a few red ‘i‘iwi feathers along the neck border), representing approximately 80,000 birds. The taking of so many birds, accumulation of the necessary feathers, production of the fine netting, and tedious work of attaching several hundred thousand feathers by hand with fine threads, represents a labor investment and surplus accumulation of extraordinary proportions. Thus Buck quite correctly concludes that “while the capes remained the insignia of chiefs, the cloaks became the royal robes of kings” (1957: 231). The resplendent feathered finery of Hawaiian elites did not end with capes and cloaks, but was topped off by helmets (mahiole), another uniquely Hawaiian innovation…As with the capes, there was variation in style and materials, which to the initiated again provided a visual signal of social position: “The crested helmets covered with colored feathers were the natural complement of the feather cloaks and so completed the regalia of high chiefs and kings. Other helmets, decorated with human hair or mushroomlike ornaments, were the headdresses of warriors and lesser chiefs” (Buck 1957: 231)…To appreciate fully the symbolism of the feathered capes, cloaks, and helmets, one must note that the same red and yellow feathers adorned the surfaces of woven anthropomorphic images, notably of the war god Ku…The images were made from the split fibers of ‘ie‘ie vine (Freycinetia arborea), applying the same weaving technique used in the feathered helmets. Individual images vary, but most have a crest (as in the helmets), inlaid eyes of pearl shell, and an open mouth fringed with dog’s teeth…These feathered images accompanied the king on his travels, and into battle…Kaeppler (1985: 118), based on careful analysis of late-eighteenth and early-nineteenth-century feathered cloaks in museum collections, suggests that “…status based on prestige and power was in a state of flux” during this period, manifest particularly in changes in the color and design of cloaks…Kaeppler suggests that the yellow feathers were becoming “more scarce and precious” and could only be “commanded in great numbers by powerful personages” such as Kamehameha. […] Craft specialization extended to other media such as…weaving… […] Control over precious feathers - and the highly symbolic cloaks, capes, helmets, and kahili made with them - was an important power strategy to the Hawaiian rulers. […] [Referring to the circuit of the ‘long god’ (akua loa), a wooden shaft tipped with a carved human head that represented the god Lono, which was transported through the territorial units comprising Hawaii at European contact in the late C18, as described by Kamakau 1964: 20-21]…Much wealth was acquired by the god during this circuit of the island…wealth was presented [to the ‘long god’]…[including] tapa cloth, dress tapas (‘a‘ahu), ‘oloa tapa, pa‘u (skirts), malos [loincloths], shoulder capes (‘ahu), ninikea tapa…finely designed mats (‘ahu pawehe)…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, pp. 42-44]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, pp. 46-47]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, p. 63]</a> “[Referring to the introduction of new goods from Europe, the United States and China via the fur trade in the C19] Some imported haole [non-Hawaiian] goods were American cottons, woolens…Chinese cotton cloth…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FNE6X8KN\">[Potter_Kasdon_Rayson 2003, p. 29]</a> “[Referring to the everyday environment and associated activities of “Old Hawaii” but also relevant at the time of contact with Europeans from the late C18] The furnishings of the domestic establishment were few, consisting of…mats for floor covering and beds… […] …kapa (tapa) for clothing and for bed coverings…Woman’s work included…the plaiting of mats, which were made principally of lauhala, the leaf of the pandanus tree; and the preparation of clothing. In the latter work the fundamental operation was the making of kapa (or bark cloth, as it is sometimes called). The raw material of kapa was the inner bark of the paper mulberry, which had to be peeled off, soaked in water, scraped to remove the pulp, and then beaten out into thin, narrow strips; several strips would be overlapped and beaten together along the edges to make wider pieces, and one layer might be put on top of another to make a thicker sheet. The beating was done with wooden mallets or beaters upon a long anvil carefully hewn into shape from a log…There was little need for clothing from a climatic point of view, but such as it was, the ordinary clothing of both men and women was made from kapa; and kapa was used also for bed covers. In battle and on ceremonial occasions the chiefs adorned themselves with magnificent […] feather cloaks, capes, and helmets, in the making of which Hawaiian art and manual skill attained their highest expression. […] [Referring to trade goods brought to Hawaii by foreigners from the late C18 to early C19]…cloth and clothing…were introduced by the early traders and explorers”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/BJP6A7XN\">[Kuykendall 1938, pp. 5-7]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/BJP6A7XN\">[Kuykendall 1938, p. 28]</a> “[Referring to storehouses of high-status individuals such as kings and chiefs, managed by special stewards] John Papa ‘I‘I describes the “two or three” storehouses Kamehameha maintained near his residence in Kailua, Kona (Hawai‘i) from 1812: In the storehouses were piled bundles of surplus pa‘u [women’s barkcloth skirts], malos [men’s loincloths] and tapa sheets. These had been given to the chiefs as makahiki taxes that were presented to the gods when they made a circuit of the island every twelfth month. Because the profit received from these taxes on the land was so large, combined with the king’s personal shares from his other lands, goods were piled in great heaps. If one looked into the storehouses, one saw small, large, extra large, and medium-sized bundles…(Ii 1959: 121; cf. Malo 1951: 145-46, 195)…[Referring to traditional types of ‘taxes’ and ‘rents’]…“taxes” and “rents”…during the conquest period [1778-1812] are most often described in terms of…tapa cloth, and other products of local manufacture or provenience…So Kamakau speaks of annual royal taxes (’auhau) in the Kamehameha era, assessed in proportion to the size of the land unit, and paid in such things as “tapas, skirts, loin cloths…mats, olona fiber…” (1961: 177). The “yearly rent” sent from the ahupua‘a of Pahipahi‘alua in O‘ahu to the owning lord (haku‘aina), the high priest living in Hawai‘i, was “about…five suits of tarper [tapa cloth], five pows [pa‘u, skirts] and ten maro [malo, loincloths]” (Whitman 1979: 79). Again, Archibald Campbell late in the conquest period reports from O‘ahu that the “lower class” pays to the chiefs a “rent” in kind, generally…cloth or mats, “at four times in the year” (1967: 110). […] [Referring to “rents” or land tributes from the several estates owned by Kamehameha’s Haole chief John Young, received in the early 1800s] The “rents” are all in kind. The most common items are women’s skirts, men’s loincloths, and tapa of different varieties, including red and turmeric-dyed. Feathers…are also regularly recorded… […] …a notice by Ross Cox in 1812 of the finery affected in European and Chinese clothing by the O‘ahu elite indicates that the correlated aristocratic obsession with conspicuous accumulation had…begun (Cox 1832: 42-43). By comparison with what was to come, Kamehameha had lived frugally. Foreign cloth and furnishings were a part of his trade interests, yet in relation to military and naval equipment, only a small part. […] [Referring to Kamehameha’s personal trading activities in the early 1800s] A surviving invoice of the China goods the king received in 1812 (from his initial dealing with the Winship brothers) is fair enough testimony to his own royal tastes:…velvets, satins, silks…fifty silk hats…(Marin, invoice, 1812). [Note 6 following the latter quote] The relatively modest costume of assorted foreign pieces assumed by Kamehameha when he visited the Tonquin in 1811 (Ross 1849: 35) or greeted Golovnin in 1818 (Golovnin 1979: 181-82) was characteristic of his official attire; otherwise, he wore a malo (loin-cloth). Golovnin also provided an inventory of [trade] furnishings in the king’s “dining hall” (perhaps his mua or domestic shrine), where he held audience with important foreign visitors: [which included] “…two mahogany tables - on one a tablecloth…[Golovnin 1979: 182-83]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, pp. 50-51]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 54]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 60]</a> “[Referring to the lei niho palaoa whale-tooth ornament and its relationship to Hawaiian fabrics] The form [of the lei niho palaoa] occurs in several variations on…helmets, and as a two-dimensional pattern on the feather capes and cloaks. A number of meanings might easily be applied to it as a pure symbol…the lei niho palaoa was a badge of rank, its use strictly limited to the ali’i [Hawaiian nobility]. Malo names the lei palaoa as the object of second greatest value in ancient Hawaii, second only to the feather capes and cloaks (1951: 77)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZGP35J48\">[Cox_Davenport 1988, p. 41]</a> Featherwork including cloaks, capes and helmets; mats; specialty trade fabrics including European, American and Chinese cloth and specifically American and Chinese cotton, American wool, and Chinese velvet, satin, and silk. “[Referring to elite art and craft specialization during the contact period] Despite [Hawaiian craftsmen having a limited range of materials with which to work]…they produced spectacular objects of great sophistication, most notably in featherwork (Brigham 1899)…cloaks or capes covered in feathers are known from just three Eastern Polynesian societies…[including] Hawai‘i. Based on careful analysis of the techniques used in [the] production of these capes, Buck concluded that…“the Hawaiians should be given credit for having invented their own feather capes and cloaks” (1957: 216). Moreover, no other Polynesian society elaborated or perfected the art of featherwork to the extent found in late Hawaiian society…brilliant yellow and red feathers…were obtained from several species of endemic forest birds… […] Obtaining these feathers was the work of bird-hunting specialists who frequented the mountainous interiors of the islands, trapping the birds with sticky lime placed strategically on tree branches, or by netting them. The capes and cloaks, called ‘ahu‘ula in Hawaiian, were manufactured exclusively by male craftsmen… […] [A full-length cloak made for Kamehameha(?) was comprised of an]…estimated 450,000 feathers of the rare yellow mamo bird (with a few red ‘i‘iwi feathers along the neck border), representing approximately 80,000 birds. The taking of so many birds, accumulation of the necessary feathers, production of the fine netting, and tedious work of attaching several hundred thousand feathers by hand with fine threads, represents a labor investment and surplus accumulation of extraordinary proportions…The resplendent feathered finery of Hawaiian elites did not end with capes and cloaks, but was topped off by helmets (mahiole), another uniquely Hawaiian innovation…As with the capes, there was variation in style and materials…[Referring to woven anthropomorphic images, notably of the war god Ku] The images were made from the split fibers of ‘ie‘ie vine (Freycinetia arborea), applying the same weaving technique used in the feathered helmets…Kaeppler (1985: 118)…suggests that “…status based on prestige and power was in a state of flux” during this [contact] period, manifest particularly in changes in the color and design of cloaks…Kaeppler suggests that the yellow feathers were becoming “more scarce and precious”… […] Craft specialization [in Hawaii also] extended to other media such as…weaving…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, pp. 42-44]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, p. 46]</a> “[Referring to the everyday environment and associated activities of “Old Hawaii” but also relevant at the time of contact with Europeans from the late C18] Woman’s work included…the plaiting of mats, which were made principally of lauhala, the leaf of the pandanus tree; and the preparation of clothing. In the latter work the fundamental operation was the making of kapa (or bark cloth, as it is sometimes called). The raw material of kapa was the inner bark of the paper mulberry, which had to be peeled off, soaked in water, scraped to remove the pulp, and then beaten out into thin, narrow strips; several strips would be overlapped and beaten together along the edges to make wider pieces, and one layer might be put on top of another to make a thicker sheet. The beating was done with wooden mallets or beaters upon a long anvil carefully hewn into shape from a log…the ordinary clothing of both men and women was made from kapa; and kapa was used also for bed covers. In battle and on ceremonial occasions the chiefs adorned themselves with magnificent […] feather cloaks, capes, and helmets, in the making of which Hawaiian art and manual skill attained their highest expression. […] [Referring to trade goods brought to Hawaii by foreigners from the late C18 to early C19]…cloth and clothing…were introduced by the early traders and explorers”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/BJP6A7XN\">[Kuykendall 1938, pp. 6-7]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/BJP6A7XN\">[Kuykendall 1938, p. 28]</a> “[Referring to traditional types of ‘taxes’ and ‘rents’]…“taxes” and “rents”…during the conquest period [1778-1812] are most often described in terms of…tapa cloth, and other products of local manufacture…So Kamakau speaks of annual royal taxes (’auhau) in the Kamehameha era…paid in such things as “tapas, skirts, loin cloths…mats, olona fiber…” (1961: 177). […] …a notice by Ross Cox in 1812 of the finery affected in European and Chinese clothing by the O‘ahu elite indicates that the correlated aristocratic obsession with conspicuous accumulation had…begun (Cox 1832: 42-43)…Foreign cloth and furnishings were a part of his [Kamehameha] trade interests… […] [Referring to Kamehameha’s personal trading activities in the early 1800s] A surviving invoice of the China goods the king received in 1812…is fair enough testimony to his own royal tastes:…velvets, satins, silks…fifty silk hats…(Marin, invoice, 1812). [Note 6 following the latter quote] The relatively modest costume of assorted foreign pieces assumed by Kamehameha when he visited the Tonquin in 1811…was characteristic of his official attire; otherwise, he wore a malo (loin-cloth). Golovnin also provided an inventory of [trade] furnishings in the king’s “dining hall” (perhaps his mua or domestic shrine), where he held audience with important foreign visitors: “…[which included on one mahogany table] a tablecloth…[Golovnin 1979: 182-83]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 50]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 54]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 60]</a> “[Referring to the lei niho palaoa whale-tooth ornament and its relationship to Hawaiian fabrics] Malo names the lei palaoa as the object of second greatest value [manufactured] in ancient Hawaii, second only to the feather capes and cloaks (1951: 77)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZGP35J48\">[Cox_Davenport 1988, p. 41]</a> Featherwork including cloaks, capes and helmets; mats; specialty trade fabrics including European, American and Chinese cloth and specifically American and Chinese cotton, American wool, and Chinese velvet, satin, and silk. “[Referring to elite art and craft specialization during the contact period]…only the highest-ranking elites - in particular the divine king - was permitted to wear a full-length cloak extending from the neck… […] [This cloak comprised of an]…estimated 450,000 feathers of the rare yellow mamo bird (with a few red ‘i‘iwi feathers along the neck border), representing approximately 80,000 birds. The taking of so many birds, accumulation of the necessary feathers, production of the fine netting, and tedious work of attaching several hundred thousand feathers by hand with fine threads, represents a labor investment and surplus accumulation of extraordinary proportions. Thus Buck quite correctly concludes that “…the cloaks became the royal robes of kings” (1957: 231). The resplendent feathered finery of Hawaiian elites did not end with capes and cloaks, but was topped off by helmets (mahiole), another uniquely Hawaiian innovation…As with the capes, there was variation in style and materials, which to the initiated again provided a visual signal of social position: “The crested helmets covered with colored feathers were the natural complement of the feather cloaks and so completed the regalia of…kings…feathered images [woven anthropomorphic images, notably of the war god Ku] accompanied the king on his travels, and into battle…Kaeppler (1985: 118)…suggests that “…status based on prestige and power was in a state of flux” during this [contact] period, manifest particularly in changes in the color and design of cloaks…Kaeppler suggests that the yellow feathers were becoming “more scarce and precious” and could only be “commanded in great numbers by powerful personages” such as Kamehameha. […] Control over precious feathers - and the highly symbolic cloaks, capes, helmets, and kahili made with them - was an important power strategy to the Hawaiian rulers”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, pp. 43-44]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, p. 47]</a> “[Referring to storehouses of high-status individuals such as kings and chiefs, managed by special stewards] John Papa ‘I‘I describes the “two or three” storehouses Kamehameha maintained near his residence in Kailua, Kona (Hawai‘i) from 1812: In the storehouses were piled bundles of surplus pa‘u [women’s barkcloth skirts], malos [men’s loincloths] and tapa sheets…[in part owing to the] king’s personal shares from…other lands, goods were piled in great heaps. If one looked into the storehouses, one saw small, large, extra large, and medium-sized bundles…(Ii 1959: 121; cf. Malo 1951: 145-46, 195)…Kamakau speaks of annual royal taxes (’auhau) in the Kamehameha era…paid in such things as “tapas, skirts, loin cloths…mats, olona fiber…” (1961: 177). […] Foreign cloth and furnishings were a part of his [Kamehameha’s] trade interests… […] [Referring to Kamehameha’s personal trading activities in the early 1800s] A surviving invoice of the China goods the king received in 1812…is fair enough testimony to his own royal tastes:…velvets, satins, silks…fifty silk hats…(Marin, invoice, 1812). [Note 6 following the latter quote] The relatively modest costume of assorted foreign pieces assumed by Kamehameha when he visited the Tonquin in 1811…was characteristic of his official attire; otherwise, he wore a malo (loin-cloth). Golovnin also provided an inventory of [trade] furnishings in the king’s “dining hall” (perhaps his mua or domestic shrine), where he held audience with important foreign visitors: “…[which included on one mahogany table] a tablecloth…[Golovnin 1979: 182-83]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 50]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 54]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 60]</a> Featherwork including cloaks, capes and helmets; mats; specialty trade fabrics including European, American and Chinese cloth and specifically American and Chinese cotton, American wool, and Chinese velvet, satin, and silk. “[Referring to elite art and craft specialization during the contact period] [Captain James] Cook’s company…[were] deeply impressed by the feathered cloaks as well as helmets worn by Hawaiian elite men…Both Samwell and Lt. James King describe the variation in length and styles of capes and cloaks, noting that these correspond to gradations in chiefly rank (Beaglehole 1967: 1179, 1392). […] Chiefs of various ranks wore rectangular or circular capes… […] “…capes remained the insignia of chiefs…” ([Buck] 1957: 231). The resplendent feathered finery of Hawaiian elites did not end with capes and cloaks, but was topped off by helmets (mahiole)…As with the capes, there was variation in style and materials, which to the initiated again provided a visual signal of social position: “The crested helmets covered with colored feathers were the natural complement of the feather cloaks and so completed the regalia of high chiefs…Other helmets, decorated with human hair or mushroomlike ornaments, were the headdresses of warriors and lesser chiefs” (Buck 1957: 231)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/N3XX48U9\">[Kirch 2010, pp. 42-44]</a> “[Referring to the environment of “Old Hawaii” but also relevant at the time of contact with Europeans from the late C18] In battle and on ceremonial occasions the chiefs adorned themselves with magnificent […] feather cloaks, capes, and helmets, in the making of which Hawaiian art and manual skill attained their highest expression”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/BJP6A7XN\">[Kuykendall 1938, pp. 6-7]</a> “[Referring to storehouses of high-status individuals such as kings and chiefs, managed by special stewards] John Papa ‘I‘I describes the “two or three” storehouses Kamehameha maintained near his residence in Kailua, Kona (Hawai‘i) from 1812: In the storehouses were piled bundles of surplus pa‘u [women’s barkcloth skirts], malos [men’s loincloths] and tapa sheets. These had been given to the chiefs as makahiki taxes that were presented to the gods when they made a circuit of the island every twelfth month. Because the profit received from these taxes on the land was so large…goods were piled in great heaps. If one looked into the storehouses, one saw small, large, extra large, and medium-sized bundles…(Ii 1959: 121; cf. Malo 1951: 145-46, 195)…The “yearly rent” sent from the ahupua‘a of Pahipahi‘alua in O‘ahu to the owning lord (haku‘aina), the high priest living in Hawai‘i, was “about…five suits of tarper [tapa cloth], five pows [pa‘u, skirts] and ten maro [malo, loincloths]” (Whitman 1979: 79). Again, Archibald Campbell late in the conquest period reports from O‘ahu that the “lower class” pays to the chiefs a “rent” in kind, generally…cloth or mats, “at four times in the year” (1967: 110). […] [Referring to “rents” or land tributes from the several estates owned by Kamehameha’s Haole chief John Young, received in the early 1800s] The “rents” are all in kind. The most common items are women’s skirts, men’s loincloths, and tapa of different varieties, including red and turmeric-dyed. Feathers…are also regularly recorded… […] …a notice by Ross Cox in 1812 of the finery affected in European and Chinese clothing by the O‘ahu elite indicates that the correlated aristocratic obsession with conspicuous accumulation had…begun (Cox 1832: 42-43)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, pp. 50-51]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/K8FJBBDC\">[Kirch_Sahlins 1992, p. 54]</a> “[Referring to the lei niho palaoa whale-tooth ornament and its relationship to Hawaiian fabrics]…the lei niho palaoa was a badge of rank, its use strictly limited to the ali’i [Hawaiian nobility]. Malo names the lei palaoa as the object of second greatest value in ancient Hawaii, second only to the feather capes and cloaks [also worn by the ali’i, which sometimes featured versions of the lei niho palaoa form in their design] (1951: 77)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ZGP35J48\">[Cox_Davenport 1988, p. 41]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 138,
"polity": {
"id": 469,
"name": "uz_janid_dyn",
"long_name": "Khanate of Bukhara",
"start_year": 1599,
"end_year": 1747
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 469,
"name": "uz_janid_dyn",
"long_name": "Khanate of Bukhara",
"start_year": 1599,
"end_year": 1747
},
{
"id": 98,
"name": "in_mughal_emp",
"long_name": "Mughal Empire",
"start_year": 1526,
"end_year": 1858
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“There was a fairly active trade with India in various types of cloth, dyes, precious stones, spices and other merchandise. […] Among the European goods in some demand were clocks and high-quality woollen saqirlāt (brocade). Chests of ‘Frankish orange velvet’ were kept in the stores of the Janid Nadr Muhammad. ‘Frankish velvet’ is often mentioned as one of the most valuable gifts. From the end of the sixteenth century commercial and diplomatic ties between Bukhara and Russia grew stronger. The principal commodities exported to Astrakhan, Kazan and Moscow were various types of cotton cloth. In 1580 alone, some 5,000 lengths of cotton cloth were exported to Moscow, and in 1585, 2,400 lengths.\" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IHRKAPBT\">[Mukminova_et_al 2003, pp. 54-55]</a> “On the basis of the Persian material it is difficult to identify all the commodities which the Indian traders brought into Central Asia. Textiles of varied range appear, however, to have been important item of export. […] Anthony Jenkinson further identified the kinds of cloth imported from India in Samarquand and Bukhara. He writes: \"The Indians doe bring fine whites, which the Tartars doe all roll their heads, and all other kinds of whites which serve for apparel made of cotton wool and Crasca. Later in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, textiles continued to be the chief export from India <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SSU3RPXB\">[Alam 0, pp. 205-206]</a> “Sixteenth-century documents mention various types of cloth and woven fabric, indigo, sugar, spices and special medicinal herbs being imported from India” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AJ87889I\">[Mukminova 2003, p. 45]</a> “On the basis of the Persian material it is difficult to identify all the commodities which the Indian traders brought into Central Asia. Textiles of varied range appear, however, to have been important item of export. […] . Anthony Jenkinson further identified the kinds of cloth imported from India in Samarquand and Bukhara. He writes: \"The Indians doe bring fine whites, which the Tartars doe all roll their heads, and all other kinds of whites which serve for apparel made of cotton wool and Crasca. Later in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, textiles continued to be the chief export from India” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SSU3RPXB\">[Alam 0, pp. 205-206]</a> “Bukhara specialized in the manufacture of jewellery, weaponry, alācha (striped cotton and silk fabric) and wines of which it was said that ‘there were none stronger in all Transoxania’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AJ87889I\">[Mukminova 2003, p. 43]</a> “Between the sixteenth and the eighteenth centuries, artistic fabrics in this region [Transoxiana], like those of Iran and India, underwent substantial development. In that period, the centres most famous for the production of textiles were Bukhara, Samarkand, Khujand and Ferghana, where various types of cotton, silk and part-silk fabrics were manufactured. […] The most famous of all cotton fabrics were karbās, āchaandz and ānīchī, which were much in demand and exported in bulk to Russia. [..] In Samarkand and Bukhara, a magnificent smoothly woven crimson velvet was made called bakhmal or makhmal, which was exported to Russia and other countries <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/848FIJPM\">[Ashrafi 2003, pp. 655-656]</a> “Among the European goods in some demand were clocks and high-quality woollen saqirlāt (brocade). Chests of ‘Frankish orange velvet’ were kept in the stores of the Janid Nadr Muhammad. ‘Frankish velvet’ is often mentioned as one of the most valuable gifts” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IHRKAPBT\">[Mukminova_et_al 2003, p. 54]</a> “There was also considerable trade with the Turkmens, who mainly purchased cotton fabrics from the Bukhara markets. Turkmens bringing woollen clothing, saddle-bags and horse-cloth found a ready market in Bukhara, and there was great demand among the inhabitants of the Zarafshan and Ferghana valleys for Turkmen carpets, especially those made by the Teke Turkmens, which often adorned the floors of wealthy households. [..] Transoxania was undoubtedly a producer and exporter of cotton fabrics and other cotton products. To a lesser degree, silk was also exported. […] Unlike the early medieval period, the bulk of the production was for export, including that of woven goods and high-value goods; it was possibly aimed internally not only at a small court elite, but also at the middle classes”” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AJ87889I\">[Mukminova 2003, pp. 45-46]</a> “In one large transfer of textiles in 1620-21, the Mughal emperor Shah Selim (Jahangir) sent a letter to the third Juybari sheikh, Taj al-Din Hassan, in which he announced a gift to the sheikh of 50,000 Khānī worth of cotton cloth and other goods sent to Bukhara with the ambassador Mir Baraka. The Indian elite’s practice of sending textiles to the Central Asian elite is not infrequent in the primary sources” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FTQWEMH6\">[Levi 1999, p. 532]</a> “Transoxiana was undoubtedly a producer and exporter of cotton fabrics and other cotton products. To a lesser degree, silk was also exported. […] Unlike the early medieval period, the bulk of the production was for export, including that of woven goods and high-value goods; it was possibly aimed internally not only at a small court elite, but also at the middle classes. The lively trade sparked an increase in the production of woven goods. Weaving continued to be done by hand-loom, and the production of good-quality materials was possible thanks only to the skills of traditional craftsmen” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AJ87889I\">[Mukminova 2003, p. 46]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 139,
"polity": {
"id": 370,
"name": "uz_timurid_emp",
"long_name": "Timurid Empire",
"start_year": 1370,
"end_year": 1526
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 370,
"name": "uz_timurid_emp",
"long_name": "Timurid Empire",
"start_year": 1370,
"end_year": 1526
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The handicrafts of the period were characterized by the division of labour and a small commodity production which can roughly be divided as follows: articles intended to satisfy the needs of the numerous local urban inhabitants; articles for sale in the adjacent villages and nomad encampments; goods for the narrow aristocratic circle (such as costly fabrics, jewellery, some kinds of weapons and metal goods, rich clothes, splendid manuscripts, etc.); and products exported to foreign countries as well (fabrics, writing paper, weapons, ready-made clothes) […]. As in earlier times, sandanachi fabric (senden) [produced in Transoxania] was exported as far as Novgorod. From this point, traders of the Teutonic Knights’ Order brought it to the towns of Europe, where it was considered one of the most serviceable fabrics for common citizens <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CE66HCEQ\">[Ashrafyan_Asimov_Bosworth_C._E. 1998, pp. 362-363]</a> “Apart from spices, silk was a commodity in great demand at Sultaniyya, whither was \"imported all the silk that is produced in Gilan... where much of that commodity is produced and manufactured. This Gilan silk is exported from Sultaniyah to Damascus and other parts of Syria, also to Turkey and to Kaffa [in the Crimea] with the neighbouring lands. Further to Sultaniyah is brought all the silk made at Shamakhi [in Shirvan] which is a place where much of this article is woven, and Persian merchants travel thither to buy it, also Genoese and Venetians.\" The importance of silk to the Persian economy was clear at that time. It was not alone spices and silk that were marketed in Sultaniyya but \"many kinds of cloth woven of silk or cotton and taffetas with crape- stuffs of various kinds\" which \"came from the country round and about Shiraz which lies towards the border of Lesser India” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/87MQJ3QG\">[Ferrier,_R 1986, p. 414]</a> (The quotations come from a traveller, Clavijo, who reported on the comparative prosperity of many parts through which he travelled on his embassy to Timur in the early 15th century). “The handicrafts of the period were characterized by the division of labour and a small commodity production which can roughly be divided as follows: articles intended to satisfy the needs of the numerous local urban inhabitants; articles for sale in the adjacent villages and nomad encampments; goods for the narrow aristocratic circle (such as costly fabrics, jewellery, some kinds of weapons and metal goods, rich clothes, splendid manuscripts, etc.); and products exported to foreign countries as well (fabrics, writing paper, weapons, ready-made clothes) […]. As in earlier times, sandanachi fabric (senden) [produced in Transoxania] was exported as far as Novgorod. From this point, traders of the Teutonic Knights’ Order brought it to the towns of Europe, where it was considered one of the most serviceable fabrics for common citizens (Ashrafyan 1988: 362-363) <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CE66HCEQ\">[Ashrafyan_Asimov_Bosworth_C._E. 1998]</a> . “Apart from spices, silk was a commodity in great demand at Sultaniyya, whither was \"imported all the silk that is produced in Gilan... where much of that commodity is produced and manufactured. This Gilan silk is exported from Sultaniyah to Damascus and other parts of Syria, also to Turkey and to Kaffa [in the Crimea] with the neighbouring lands. Further to Sultaniyah is brought all the silk made at Shamakhi [in Shirvan] which is a place where much of this article is woven, and Persian merchants travel thither to buy it, also Genoese and Venetians.\" The importance of silk to the Persian economy was clear at that time. It was not alone spices and silk that were marketed in Sultaniyya but \"many kinds of cloth woven of silk or cotton and taffetas with crape- stuffs of various kinds\" which \"came from the country round and about Shiraz which lies towards the border of Lesser India” (Ferrier 1986: 414). <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/87MQJ3QG\">[Ferrier,_R 1986]</a> (The quotations come from a traveller, Clavijo, who reported on the comparative prosperity of many parts through which he travelled on his embassy to Timur in the early 15th century). The handicrafts of the period were characterized by the division of labour and a small commodity production which can roughly be divided as follows: articles intended to satisfy the needs of the numerous local urban inhabitants; articles for sale in the adjacent villages and nomad encampments; goods for the narrow aristocratic circle (such as costly fabrics, jewellery, some kinds of weapons and metal goods, rich clothes, splendid manuscripts, etc.); and products exported to foreign countries as well (fabrics, writing paper, weapons, ready-made clothes) (Ashrafyan 1988: 362) <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CE66HCEQ\">[Ashrafyan_Asimov_Bosworth_C._E. 1998]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 140,
"polity": {
"id": 541,
"name": "ye_qasimid_dyn",
"long_name": "Yemen - Qasimid Dynasty",
"start_year": 1637,
"end_year": 1805
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 778,
"name": "in_east_india_co",
"long_name": "British East India Company",
"start_year": 1757,
"end_year": 1858
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The modest appearance and lifestyle of that early Qasim imam impressed de La Roque. ‘Going with his legs and feet bare and wearing slippers after the Turkish fashion […] one of his cavalry officers held a vast green damask umbrella, with an eight-inch long red and gold fringe, and a ‘globe of silver gilt’ on top” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9PB6HRWG\">[Clark 2010, p. 26]</a> “in 1720, the gift to Mocha’s governor Amīr Rizq included bolts of unfinished cloth in scarlet and blue, as well as various finished pieces from India, that went by the names dimities, baftas, hummums, and shalbofts, in addition to varieties of embossed cloth without specified places of origin.51 It also included pieces of taffeta from both China and Bengal. It is notable that the majority of these textiles were Indian and that they represented the various South Asian weaving centers of the time. Baftas were a type of calico made in Gujarat, hummums (derived from the word hammām or bath) were plain cottons from Bengal, shalbofts were muslin from the Deccan, and the embossed cloths were either from India or from England. A single bestowal always included a combination of textiles at various price points. For instance, among the textiles given to Amīr Rizq in 1720, the most expensive pieces of Chinese taffeta were valued at twelve Spanish reals per piece and the least expensive, the Bengali taffeta, was valued at a fifth of its price at 2.4 Spanish reals per piece. Additionally, new and different types of textiles were introduced each year. As an example, in the following year 1721, the governor of Mocha was given a gift that included cloth by the yard, three shawls (probably made of wool), four different types of soosies (striped or checkered cotton or cotton/silk cloths), mulmuls or embroidered muslin from Bengal, and two different types of allajars, striped cottons that were used as handkerchiefs in England. None of these types of Indian-produced textiles were included in the previous year’s package. It appears that the recipients expected a certain amount of variety in their yearly textile gifts, in terms of type, color, quality, and place of manufacture. […] In 1722, VOC merchants sent a gift to Mocha governor Aḥmad Khazindār […] Textiles included muslin produced in northeast India, named cassas and mulmuls, but also one piece of velvet that was probably from Iran and three rolls of Chinese silk. A shawl that had been purchased in Mocha’s market, and was likely made of wool and from India originally, and sixteen elle (roughly seventy cm) of brocade, perhaps from Europe, were also included.57 Unlike their English counterparts, which were comprised mostly of cotton or silk piece goods from India, the Dutch-tendered textiles constituted only a part of their gift.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/25RM25QE\">[Um 2014, p. 244]</a> “The modest appearance and lifestyle of that early Qasim imam impressed de La Roque. ‘Going with his legs and feet bare and wearing slippers after the Turkish fashion […] one of his cavalry officers held a vast green damask umbrella, with an eight-inch long red and gold fringe […] ‘he was more like a king than a caliph’ wrote one Yemeni chronicler about the imam who succeeded the one de la Roque met. Although sufficiently modest not to wear silk […] ‘his habit was to seclude himself […] in a palace filled with […] all kinds of clothes’” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/9PB6HRWG\">[Clark 2010, p. 26]</a> “in 1720, the gift to Mocha’s governor Amīr Rizq included bolts of unfinished cloth in scarlet and blue, as well as various finished pieces from India, that went by the names dimities, baftas, hummums, and shalbofts, in addition to varieties of embossed cloth without specified places of origin.51 It also included pieces of taffeta from both China and Bengal. It is notable that the majority of these textiles were Indian and that they represented the various South Asian weaving centers of the time. Baftas were a type of calico made in Gujarat, hummums (derived from the word hammām or bath) were plain cottons from Bengal, shalbofts were muslin from the Deccan, and the embossed cloths were either from India or from England. A single bestowal always included a combination of textiles at various price points. For instance, among the textiles given to Amīr Rizq in 1720, the most expensive pieces of Chinese taffeta were valued at twelve Spanish reals per piece and the least expensive, the Bengali taffeta, was valued at a fifth of its price at 2.4 Spanish reals per piece. Additionally, new and different types of textiles were introduced each year. As an example, in the following year 1721, the governor of Mocha was given a gift that included cloth by the yard, three shawls (probably made of wool), four different types of soosies (striped or checkered cotton or cotton/silk cloths), mulmuls or embroidered muslin from Bengal, and two different types of allajars, striped cottons that were used as handkerchiefs in England. None of these types of Indian-produced textiles were included in the previous year’s package. It appears that the recipients expected a certain amount of variety in their yearly textile gifts, in terms of type, color, quality, and place of manufacture. […] In 1722, VOC merchants sent a gift to Mocha governor Aḥmad Khazindār […] Textiles included muslin produced in northeast India, named cassas and mulmuls, but also one piece of velvet that was probably from Iran and three rolls of Chinese silk. A shawl that had been purchased in Mocha’s market, and was likely made of wool and from India originally, and sixteen elle (roughly seventy cm) of brocade, perhaps from Europe, were also included.57 Unlike their English counterparts, which were comprised mostly of cotton or silk piece goods from India, the Dutch-tendered textiles constituted only a part of their gift. […] The gifts, which were delivered on August 3, 1721 in line with the schedule for customary gifting, may be differentiated from the annual ones mentioned above not only for their wider scope of distribution, but also because of the inclusion of some costly and unique items that did not appear on the regular yearly rosters. The imam received a piece of “attlass” (heavy satin sometimes woven with threads of gold and silver) from Surat that was valued at sixty Spanish reals, the single most expensive item found on any of the gift registers.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/25RM25QE\">[Um 2014, p. 244]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/25RM25QE\">[Um 2014, p. 249]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 141,
"polity": {
"id": 372,
"name": "ye_tahirid_dyn",
"long_name": "Yemen - Tahirid Dynasty",
"start_year": 1454,
"end_year": 1517
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 409,
"name": "bd_bengal_sultanate",
"long_name": "Bengal Sultanate",
"start_year": 1338,
"end_year": 1538
},
{
"id": 239,
"name": "eg_mamluk_sultanate_3",
"long_name": "Egypt - Mamluk Sultanate III",
"start_year": 1412,
"end_year": 1517
},
{
"id": 544,
"name": "it_venetian_rep_3",
"long_name": "Republic of Venice III",
"start_year": 1204,
"end_year": 1563
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Sultanate of Gujarat",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“In the 15th and 16th centuries, the evolving political situation […] greatly affected the role of Aden as one of the major entrepots on the trade routes between Europe and Asia […] The principal articles of this trade were textiles and spices […] Hundreds of references attest not only to the demand in Yemen for highly valued Venetian and other European textiles but also for cotton piece goods from India and Chinese silks. Concurrently there existed an indigenous Yemeni textile trade” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MNDWDXQ9\">[Baldry 1982, pp. 20-41]</a> “At the beginning of the 16th century, Ludovico de Varthema reported that every year silk and cotton goods were laden on 40 or 50 vessels which sailed from Cambay to ‘different countries’ supplying […] Arabia Felix […] Many of these products carried from Indian ports to Aden were not however of Indian manufacture, but came from places further east. In this trade Malacca was of primary importance. […] Aden’s role as both a port of transhipment and a centre for the importation of silk, cotton goods and dyeing materials for domestic use has been surveyed. […] Literature between the 11th and 16th centuries provides abundant references to the cultivation of cotton […] and to the manufacture of a variety of fine cloths. […]In the 15th and 16th centuries, the evolving political situation […] greatly affected the role of Aden as one of the major entrepots on the trade routes between Europe and Asia […] The principal articles of this trade were textiles and spices […] Hundreds of references attest not only to the demand in Yemen for highly valued Venetian and other European textiles but also for cotton piece goods from India and Chinese silks. Concurrently there existed an indigenous Yemeni textile trade […] Among goods imported at Aden from Jiddah (and presumably of Egyptian and European manufacture) were ‘cloths of wool’ and silk. […] Large quantities of ‘cotton stuffs’ were also imported at Aden from Bengal and Mangala. Cotton cloths, silk stuff,cotton, coarse camlets and ‘scarlet cloth and of other colors’ reached Aden from Diu. […] Vessels returning from Suez brought back […] coloured velvets, coloured camlets and scarlet and other coloured cloths. Chinese silks were purchased at Malacca and sent on to Aden. […] A few years earlier Ludovica di Varthema noted that 50 vessels were loaded every year at Bengal with silk stuffs known as bairami, namone, lizari, ciantari, doazar, and sinaffi and taken to all parts of Arabi Felix, while Gujerat provided Yemen with clothes made of silk and cotton.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MNDWDXQ9\">[Baldry 1982, pp. 20-41]</a> “The said sultan also takes with his army five thousand camels laden with tents, all of cotton and also ropes of cotton” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UIGEVVB5\">[Porter 1992, p. 119]</a> “There are several notices, usually in the works of the historians, which suggest the great attraction which cotton and silk clothing had for both rulers and the wealthy elite of Yemen, but usually it is not possible to establish whether it was of Yemeni or foreign manufacture, although the popularity in Yemen of Indian, Chinese, and Madagascan clothing has already been noted. Great fortunes in precious textiles were amassed by governors of sea-ports and rulers alike.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MNDWDXQ9\">[Baldry 1982, p. 21]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 142,
"polity": {
"id": 250,
"name": "cn_qin_emp",
"long_name": "Qin Empire",
"start_year": -338,
"end_year": -207
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "UND",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "uncoded",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“According to what we've found so far, the extra tombs near Qin Shi Huang's burial mound are spread out on the sides - east, west, north, and the northwest corner. …However, judging from the burial objects in these tombs, they are much richer than ordinary people’s tombs. About 200 objects made of different materials like gold, silver, bronze, iron, pottery, jade, shells, and more were found. There were also things made of shiny lacquer and traces of silk. (根据目前勘探情况来看，秦始皇陵的陪葬墓分布在封土堆的东侧、西侧、北侧及西北角……但从这些墓的随葬品来看，则比平民墓葬丰富得多，随葬品有金、银、铜、铁、陶、玉、蚌、贝等不同质地的遗物200件左右，还有漆器及丝绸残迹。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RNKQZT2V\">[Xu 2002]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 143,
"polity": {
"id": 774,
"name": "mw_early_maravi",
"long_name": "Early Maravi",
"start_year": 1400,
"end_year": 1499
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "UND",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "uncoded",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 774,
"name": "mw_early_maravi",
"long_name": "Early Maravi",
"start_year": 1400,
"end_year": 1499
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "other African polities",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "““Thus, the extraordinary abundance of imported objects at Mankhamba makes the site unique. It shows that it was the Chewa who intensified long-distance trade in the area once they became firmly established at the site. […] It is also likely that the people of Mankhamba imported perishable items such as cloth to supplement their own locally made material.” […] “Cloth made by the Maravi was also highly sought after by other Africans. It was one of the commodities with which traders from Katanga exchanged their copper. The Chewa adopted the name and today call a hammock machila.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WGKGFX2X\">[Juwayeyi 2020, p. 187]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WGKGFX2X\">[Juwayeyi 2020, pp. 192-193]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 144,
"polity": {
"id": 648,
"name": "so_majeerteen_sultanate",
"long_name": "Majeerteen Sultanate",
"start_year": 1750,
"end_year": 1926
},
"year_from": 1750,
"year_to": 1799,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The same thirty or so cloth types were sought by élites, and, increasingly, the general population, across the vast area of Sub-Saharan eastern Africa engaged in the export trade in ivory, slaves, gum copal and spices which, at its peak in the 1870s, radiated from Zanzibar to Somalia in the north, to Mozambique in the south, as far west as Uganda and east to Madagascar and the Comoros Islands. Called ‘cloths with names’ by the Swahili, these luxury textiles made up a small part of cloth imports, from 6 per cent to 25 per cent of value depending on the time and place; yet they were indispensable to the social relations upon which trade depended. […] Approaching the category of luxury textiles requires an understanding of its foil: common or coarse cotton cloths. As the export ivory trade in particular expanded far into the interior of eastern Africa in the nineteenth century, rising wealth and changing fashions led increasing numbers of people to give up their local barkcloth or hide dress for imported woven cloth. Studies have shown that the bulk of it — c. 51 per cent in amount and value — consisted in plain-weave, unbleached cotton yardage. Worn as rectangular body wrappers, the cloth served as dress for rural dwellers and the urban poor (Fig. 1), with certain specific varieties used in some areas as a commodity currency for obtaining labour, food and local commodities.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a> “Employing archival, object, image and field research, this study shows that the majority of ‘cloths with names’, including the déolé, were striped cotton and silk textiles handwoven in Oman and western India.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a>",
"description": ""
},
{
"id": 145,
"polity": {
"id": 654,
"name": "so_isaaq_sultanate",
"long_name": "Isaaq Sultanate",
"start_year": 1300,
"end_year": 1886
},
"year_from": 1300,
"year_to": 1799,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The same thirty or so cloth types were sought by élites, and, increasingly, the general population, across the vast area of Sub-Saharan eastern Africa engaged in the export trade in ivory, slaves, gum copal and spices which, at its peak in the 1870s, radiated from Zanzibar to Somalia in the north, to Mozambique in the south, as far west as Uganda and east to Madagascar and the Comoros Islands. Called ‘cloths with names’ by the Swahili, these luxury textiles made up a small part of cloth imports, from 6 per cent to 25 per cent of value depending on the time and place; yet they were indispensable to the social relations upon which trade depended. […] Approaching the category of luxury textiles requires an understanding of its foil: common or coarse cotton cloths. As the export ivory trade in particular expanded far into the interior of eastern Africa in the nineteenth century, rising wealth and changing fashions led increasing numbers of people to give up their local barkcloth or hide dress for imported woven cloth. Studies have shown that the bulk of it — c. 51 per cent in amount and value — consisted in plain-weave, unbleached cotton yardage. Worn as rectangular body wrappers, the cloth served as dress for rural dwellers and the urban poor (Fig. 1), with certain specific varieties used in some areas as a commodity currency for obtaining labour, food and local commodities.” “Employing archival, object, image and field research, this study shows that the majority of ‘cloths with names’, including the déolé, were striped cotton and silk textiles handwoven in Oman and western India.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a>",
"description": ""
},
{
"id": 146,
"polity": {
"id": 640,
"name": "so_habr_yunis",
"long_name": "Habr Yunis",
"start_year": 1300,
"end_year": 1886
},
"year_from": 1300,
"year_to": 1799,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The same thirty or so cloth types were sought by élites, and, increasingly, the general population, across the vast area of Sub-Saharan eastern Africa engaged in the export trade in ivory, slaves, gum copal and spices which, at its peak in the 1870s, radiated from Zanzibar to Somalia in the north, to Mozambique in the south, as far west as Uganda and east to Madagascar and the Comoros Islands. Called ‘cloths with names’ by the Swahili, these luxury textiles made up a small part of cloth imports, from 6 per cent to 25 per cent of value depending on the time and place; yet they were indispensable to the social relations upon which trade depended. […] Approaching the category of luxury textiles requires an understanding of its foil: common or coarse cotton cloths. As the export ivory trade in particular expanded far into the interior of eastern Africa in the nineteenth century, rising wealth and changing fashions led increasing numbers of people to give up their local barkcloth or hide dress for imported woven cloth. Studies have shown that the bulk of it — c. 51 per cent in amount and value — consisted in plain-weave, unbleached cotton yardage. Worn as rectangular body wrappers, the cloth served as dress for rural dwellers and the urban poor (Fig. 1), with certain specific varieties used in some areas as a commodity currency for obtaining labour, food and local commodities.” “Employing archival, object, image and field research, this study shows that the majority of ‘cloths with names’, including the déolé, were striped cotton and silk textiles handwoven in Oman and western India.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CJ9W2TKJ\">[Fee 2017, p. 50]</a>",
"description": ""
},
{
"id": 147,
"polity": {
"id": 652,
"name": "et_harar_emirate",
"long_name": "Emirate of Harar",
"start_year": 1650,
"end_year": 1875
},
"year_from": 1650,
"year_to": 1799,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "A~P",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Locally woven clothes, which according to Burton (ibid, 194) surpassed the produce of England’s manufactures in beauty and durability[…] were also brought to Harar and then exported to different parts of the world (Harris, 1844: 222, Burton, 1966: 193 Pankhurst, 1968:53-55). […] Others hunted elephant in the valleys south of Harar and brought the ivory to the amir, who monopolized this trade; in exchange, they received cloth imported from India or perhaps the finer variety which was woven in the town from locally grown cotton.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/B493QJ9U\">[Abubaker 2013]</a> ‘‘‘ The following quote suggests that only a relatively small number of items were a royal monopoly, which suggests that many luxurious items were broadly accessible to anyone who could afford them, regardless of social extraction. “Even though the trading of ivory, ostrich feathers, and other items were monopolized by some Amirs and their families; the basic value related to property right was respected i.e. economic freedom: the rights to acquire, use, transfer and dispose of private property. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/B493QJ9U\">[Abubaker 2013]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 148,
"polity": {
"id": 659,
"name": "ni_allada_k",
"long_name": "Allada",
"start_year": 1100,
"end_year": 1724
},
"year_from": 1100,
"year_to": 1650,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 461,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_2",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Late Bourbon",
"start_year": 1660,
"end_year": 1815
},
{
"id": 709,
"name": "pt_portuguese_emp_2",
"long_name": "Portuguese Empire - Early Modern",
"start_year": 1640,
"end_year": 1806
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a very rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed. Also, a note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity. “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> Though 1788 is after this polity period, I didn’t find anything which might suggest major fabric consumption shifts between 1724 and 1788. An expert should be consulted on this. A note on vocabulary: Ardra is another name for Allada. “fancy hats with gold braid, Spanish lace, white plumes, and such were a favorite gift for African V.I.P.s, but common European hats of all kinds were an important trade good. […] Carpets and rugs came from Turkey, India, Holland, England, and Italy; they were both presents and trade commodities. In 21 years between 1673 and 1704 the RAC sent 32,093 carpets to Africa. Among the gift-carpets was an elegant assortment that the French brought to Ardra in 1788 for the ruler and his court: two of crimson velvet with a wide border of gold lace embroidery, two of Saxony green velvet in the middle, the same border; eight of satin, striped Saxony green on one side, crimson on the other, with the same gold lace border. […] These were the status symbols, the privileges of rank and wealth. They propped up the egos of African kings, chiefs, grandees, and rich merchants, helping to set them apart from the common folk. The roster of trappings would be long: from white satin robes, brocaded silk mantles, gold- trimmed French musketeers' hats, embroidered admirals' uniform flags, multicolored umbrellas […] damask napkins, to velvet-upholstered armchairs with gilt legs, satin-upholstered couches, beds draped taffeta, Turkish carpets” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, pp. 11-12]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, p. 29]</a> A note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity. “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> Though 1788 is after this polity period, I didn’t find anything which might suggest major fabric consumption shifts between 1724 and 1788. A note on vocabulary: Ardra is another name for Allada. An expert should be consulted on this.“fancy hats with gold braid, Spanish lace, white plumes, and such were a favorite gift for African V.I.P.s, but common European hats of all kinds were an important trade good. […] Carpets and rugs came from Turkey, India, Holland, England, and Italy; they were both presents and trade commodities. In 21 years between 1673 and 1704 the RAC sent 32,093 carpets to Africa. Among the gift-carpets was an elegant assortment that the French brought to Ardra in 1788 for the ruler and his court: two of crimson velvet with a wide border of gold lace embroidery, two of Saxony green velvet in the middle, the same border; eight of satin, striped Saxony green on one side, crimson on the other, with the same gold lace border.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, pp. 11-12]</a> NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a very rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed. Also, a note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity. “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil. […] As prescribed by Gbe (and more generally West African) etiquette […] Women dressed in silk cloths wave fans and fly-whisks […] In the early modern era, the integration of “exotic” items derived from intercontinental trade was practiced not only in West African courts, but also in European ones. […] The use of European apparel or Asian cloth by Gbe rulers […] have their counterparts in Louis XIV dressing himself as an Asian ruler to receive the embassy from Ayutthaya” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 145]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 152]</a> Though 1788 is after this polity period, I didn’t find anything which might suggest major fabric consumption shifts between 1724 and 1788. An expert should be consulted on this.“fancy hats with gold braid, Spanish lace, white plumes, and such were a favorite gift for African V.I.P.s, but common European hats of all kinds were an important trade good. […] Carpets and rugs came from Turkey, India, Holland, England, and Italy; they were both presents and trade commodities. In 21 years between 1673 and 1704 the RAC sent 32,093 carpets to Africa. Among the gift-carpets was an elegant assortment that the French brought to Ardra in 1788 for the ruler and his court: two of crimson velvet with a wide border of gold lace embroidery, two of Saxony green velvet in the middle, the same border; eight of satin, striped Saxony green on one side, crimson on the other, with the same gold lace border. […] These were the status symbols, the privileges of rank and wealth. They propped up the egos of African kings, chiefs, grandees, and rich merchants, helping to set them apart from the common folk. The roster of trappings would be long: from white satin robes, brocaded silk mantles, gold- trimmed French musketeers' hats, embroidered admirals' uniform flags, multicolored umbrellas […] damask napkins, to velvet-upholstered armchairs with gilt legs, satin-upholstered couches, beds draped taffeta, Turkish carpets” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, pp. 11-12]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, p. 29]</a> NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a very rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed. Also, a note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity.“As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 149,
"polity": {
"id": 668,
"name": "ni_nri_k",
"long_name": "Ọ̀ràézè Ǹrì",
"start_year": 1043,
"end_year": 1911
},
"year_from": 1043,
"year_to": 1650,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed, based on the fact that “[i]n the late seventeenth century, there was a rise in the relative importance of slaves from sources from north of the Equator, as opposed to from Angola. […] The Bight of Benin, where Anecho became a Portuguese base in 1645, and Whydah an English one in 1672, was of particular importance for slave exports from West Africa.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NMC66GR7\">[Black 2015, p. 49]</a> “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil. […] As prescribed by Gbe (and more generally West African) etiquette […] Women dressed in silk cloths wave fans and fly-whisks […] In the early modern era, the integration of “exotic” items derived from intercontinental trade was practiced not only in West African courts, but also in European ones. […] The use of European apparel or Asian cloth by Gbe rulers […] have their counterparts in Louis XIV dressing himself as an Asian ruler to receive the embassy from Ayutthaya” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 145]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 152]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 150,
"polity": {
"id": 674,
"name": "se_cayor_k",
"long_name": "Kingdom of Cayor",
"start_year": 1549,
"end_year": 1864
},
"year_from": 1549,
"year_to": 1599,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘’’ “The Senegambian kingdoms that gained independence from the Empire of Jolof in the mid-sixteenth century were fundamentally African polities. […] As the slave trade came to dominate trade with the European Atlantic powers over the course of the seventeenth century, war became an even more lucrative activity. […] Central to this warfare were the ceddo, a class of slave soldiers under the control of the king. As primary producers of enslaved people for export, they had privileged access to the high-value goods offered by the Europeans on the coast: firearms, utensils, cloth, tobacco, and alcoholic spirits.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MM67I638\">[Bigon_Ross 2020, p. 46]</a> “The king was also to receive six aunes (about eight yards) of a French-made cloth called quintin for each slave and five aunes of the slightly more expensive India cloth. […] [W]omen's acquisition and display of costly goods was part of a general pattern that overlapped with the production and trade of local and foreign textiles in the lower Senegal river valley.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ISEEHI39\">[Benjamin 2016, pp. 45-48]</a>",
"description": null
}
]
}