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"count": 156,
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{
"id": 51,
"polity": {
"id": 792,
"name": "in_kanva_dyn",
"long_name": "Magadha - Kanva Dynasty",
"start_year": -75,
"end_year": -30
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "suspected unknown",
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“scholars know very little about the Kanva dynasty or its rulers. Most information is based on a few ancient coins, on accounts of the history of the geographical area, and on the Puranas, an ancient account of the Hindu religion that is more useful for genealogical information than for political history. According to the Puranas, the Kanva dynasty had four kings…who ruled for a total of only forty-five years…the short-lived Kanva dynasty left little mark on the history of India…” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7N3PNVCB\">[Middleton 2015, p. 486]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 52,
"polity": {
"id": 705,
"name": "in_madurai_nayaks",
"long_name": "Nayaks of Madurai",
"start_year": 1529,
"end_year": 1736
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Empty_Description",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 53,
"polity": {
"id": 396,
"name": "in_pala_emp",
"long_name": "Pala Empire",
"start_year": 750,
"end_year": 1174
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 396,
"name": "in_pala_emp",
"long_name": "Pala Empire",
"start_year": 750,
"end_year": 1174
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "RA’s note: The following quote discusses the use of cotton wool and its transformation as pata (canvas) that ought to be specifically ritually cleansed and prepared (rites of protection and consecration) before one paints on top, hence, I believe it is a type of speciality fabric reserved for the painters only. The whole article ‘Weaving the World’ essentially describes the lengthy process and rites involved in the production of PATA (the luxury canvas). ‘Before the painting can be produced, however, one must have the fabric on which it is to be painted: the term pata in fact denotes the fabric; compare our use in English of \"canvas.\" The manufacture of the fabric is itself specified as a part of the manufacture of the painted pata, and so it is with this that the text begins its actual practical prescriptions. The adept must start (MMK, p. 39) by gathering cotton wool at a site that is \"pure\" or \"clean\" (suci).13 The cotton is to be initially cleansed by persons who are adherents of the special vows and commitments of esoteric Buddhism (samayapravistaih sattvaih),14 after which it is ritually purified through the recitation over it, by the master of the mandala, of a purificatory mantra that is to be repeated 108 times’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7R6F9NF5\">[Kapstein 1995, p. 247]</a> RA’s note: The following quote discusses the use of cotton wool and its transformation as pata (canvas) that ought to be specifically ritually cleansed and prepared (rites of protection and consecration). The whole article ‘Weaving the World’ essentially describes the lengthy process and rites involved in the production of PATA (the luxury canvas), which is done by local painters, within the boundaries of the Empire. ‘Before the painting can be produced, however, one must have the fabric on which it is to be painted: the term pata in fact denotes the fabric; compare our use in English of \"canvas.\" The manufacture of the fabric is itself specified as a part of the manufacture of the painted pata, and so it is with this that the text begins its actual practical prescriptions. The adept must start (MMK, p. 39) by gathering cotton wool at a site that is \"pure\" or \"clean\" (suci).13 The cotton is to be initially cleansed by persons who are adherents of the special vows and commitments of esoteric Buddhism (samayapravistaih sattvaih),14 after which it is ritually purified through the recitation over it, by the master of the mandala, of a purificatory mantra that is to be repeated 108 times’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/7R6F9NF5\">[Kapstein 1995, p. 247]</a> ‘Among the industries that flourished in Bengal during the period -0f our study, textile industry took the prominent part. Bengal achieved great fame for her textile industry in remote past. [...] It is apparent from the early sources that Bengal attained great eminence in textile industry as early as the time of Kautilya. Subsequent evidences show that she retained eminence in this field down almost to the beginning of the 19th century. \"The periplus of the Erythraean sea\" written by a Greek sailor in the first century A.D. refers to the maslin of the finest sort ' exported from Bengal. The reputation of Bengal in the field of textile industry is also testified to by the Arab writers. According to the Arab merchant Sulaiman in the 9 th century A.D., there was 'a stuff made in this country (Ruhmi probably located in Bengal) which is not to be found elsewhere; so fine and delicate is this material that dress made of it may be passed through a signet - ring'. Marco polo who visited India in the 19th century A.O., states that in his time Bengal plied lucrative trade in cotton goods.12’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F7Z6IED7\">[Ghosh 2014, pp. 19-20]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 54,
"polity": {
"id": 700,
"name": "in_pandya_emp_1",
"long_name": "Early Pandyas",
"start_year": -300,
"end_year": 300
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 70,
"name": "it_roman_principate",
"long_name": "Roman Empire - Principate",
"start_year": -31,
"end_year": 284
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The imports to South India [from the Mediterranean], several of which are known from the Periplus, consisted of coin, topaz, coral, thin clothing and figured linens, antimony, copper, tin and lead, wine, realgar and orpiment and also wheat, the last mentioned probably for the Graeco-Romans in the Tamil ports.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/W6P5HEX3\">[Champakalakshmi 1996, pp. 187-188]</a> “The Roman contact was an important factor in the external trade of the Tamil country from about the times of Augustus (27 Bc to AD 14), although a considerable antiquity has been assigned to the commerce between the Tamil country and the west. It perhaps started as a mere ‘trickle’ or sporadic trade or unscheduled exchange, and gradually became a fruitful commerce in which spices, pearls, gems, cotton fabrics and other ‘oriental’ exotics were traded for Roman gold and wine and other assorted articles for well over two centuries.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/W6P5HEX3\">[Champakalakshmi 1996, p. 179]</a> “luxury goods such as horses, gold, gems etc. […] were meant for elite consumption and not for local exchange.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/W6P5HEX3\">[Champakalakshmi 1996, p. 190]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 55,
"polity": {
"id": 627,
"name": "in_pandya_emp_3",
"long_name": "Pandya Empire",
"start_year": 1216,
"end_year": 1323
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "’’’ The following quote may be taken to imply the existence of a large textile industry that might have included especially skilled weavers, and therefore especially valuable fabrics. “The weaving communities were very dominant in the economic activities from the early and medieval times.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P8VMZE76\">[Thangapandian 2014, p. 243]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 56,
"polity": {
"id": 793,
"name": "bd_sena_dyn",
"long_name": "Sena Dynasty",
"start_year": 1095,
"end_year": 1245
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Bengal was primarily a rural country and a beautiful descripion of its countryside is given in the Radmacharita. But even in ancient times there were a number of towns and important commercial centres which were abodes of wealth and luxury {supra, p. 340). The description of Ramavati and Vijayapura, the capital cities of the Palas and Senas, by two contemporary poets, in spite of obvious poetic exaggerations, gives us a vivid picture of the wealthy cities of ancient Bengal. Such towns contained wide roads and symmetrical rows of palatial buildings, towering high and surmounted by golden pitchers on the top. The temples, monasteries, public parks and large tanks, bordered by rockery and tall palm-trees, added to the beauty and amenities of town-life. These towns, as in all ages and countries, were the homes of all shades of peoples ; the plain, simple, virtuous and religious, as well as the vicious and the luxurious. Luxuries were chiefly manifested in fine clothes, jewellery, palatial buildings, costly furniture, and sumptuous feasts. Abundant supply of food, far beyond the needs and even capacity of invited guests, was characteristic of these feasts in ancient, as in modern Bengal.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DDTA7MGI\">[Majumdar 1971, p. 464]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 57,
"polity": {
"id": 704,
"name": "in_thanjavur_nayaks",
"long_name": "Nayaks of Thanjavur",
"start_year": 1532,
"end_year": 1676
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 632,
"name": "nl_dutch_emp_1",
"long_name": "Dutch Empire",
"start_year": 1648,
"end_year": 1795
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "E.g. Bengal and Persian silks and other textiles. “High-profile Dutch embassies carried valuable presents (elephants, Persian horses, Bengal and Persian silks and textiles, sandalwood, rose water, various types of fine spices, etc.) and curiosities (exotic birds and animals, European manufactures, including various types of pistols and matchlocks, glasses and glass mirrors, compasses, and so forth) to members of the Nayaka court. The 1668 mission under Captain Hendrik van Rheede, for instance, carried presents with a total value of 13,110 guilders” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CE94UU3H\">[RAVICHANDRAN 2011, p. 96]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 58,
"polity": {
"id": 794,
"name": "in_vanga_k",
"long_name": "Vanga Dynasty",
"start_year": 550,
"end_year": 600
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 794,
"name": "in_vanga_k",
"long_name": "Vanga Dynasty",
"start_year": 550,
"end_year": 600
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Cotton; linen. “The earliest reference to Vanga as a territorial unit is found in the fourth-century BCE Sanskrit treatise Arthaxastra of Kautilya, in which it is mentioned as an area where the finest-quality white and soft cotton fabrics were produced”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SP26QXP2\">[Rahman 2014]</a> “The cotton fabrics (karpasika) of Madhura (southern Madhura…), Aparanta (konkana…), Kasi, Vanga, Vatsa (Kausambi…), and Mahisa (the country called Mahismati…), are said to be the best”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5IFFQKTT\">[Monahan 1925, p. 52]</a> “In Kautilya’s time Vanga (East Bengal) was famous for its fabrics of dukula, linen, and cotton…Thus we learn that muslins of the finest sort (of Vanga and Pundra?) were called Gangetic”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KBDCTRNU\">[Vanina 2003, p. 475]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 59,
"polity": {
"id": 509,
"name": "ir_qajar_dyn",
"long_name": "Qajar Dynasty",
"start_year": 1794,
"end_year": 1925
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 509,
"name": "ir_qajar_dyn",
"long_name": "Qajar Dynasty",
"start_year": 1794,
"end_year": 1925
},
{
"id": 542,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_4_copy",
"long_name": "Yemen - Ottoman period",
"start_year": 1873,
"end_year": 1920
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "Afghanistan; Russia",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The regions lying west of Iran were important traditional markets for Iranian goods and during the late eighteenth century and early nineteenth century Iran's trade with Turkish Anatolia and Mesopotamia was still very considerable. Iran exported to the Ottoman Empire Indian indigo, Kashmir shawls, silk, gold cloth, printed and flowered Isfahani cloth, coarse printed cloth, cotton, lambskins, tobacco, saffron, gum ammoniac, cochineal and rhubarb. Most of these goods found their way to Istanbul and many must have been re-exported to various European countries. These goods were paid for in velvet, tabbies (coarse watered silk), French and Venetian woollens and other European cloth, lace and gold thread, cloth from Aleppo and Damascus, glassware (including painted glass), mirrors, iron, steel, hardware, opium, wood for dyeing, vermilion, white lead, coral, amber and jewels […]. Like the trade with the Ottoman Empire, the Russian trade was favourable to Iran, in so far as Iran imported from Russia a considerable quantity of specie in gold and silver, as well as iron, steel, cutlery of all descriptions, lead, brass, pistols, guns and gunpowder, clocks and watches, locks, glass- ware, mirrors, paper and stationery of various kinds, senubar (deal-wood), whales' teeth, cochineal, oil, some Kashmir shawls (presumably via the Oxus region), gold lace and thread, velvet, broad cloth, printed and plain cloth of coarse quality, chintzes and dimities of European manufacture, Russian leather for boots and water-containers, as well as small quantities of wines and spirits. This import was amply paid for by the export from Iran to Russia of raw and manufactured silk, cotton, cotton thread, Isfahani gold cloth, Kirman shawls, coarse cloth and coarse chintz manufactured in Iran, some cloth and chintz manufactured in India, coarse lambskins, fox skins, pearls, fish, rice, fuel-wood, naphtha, saffron, sulphur and gall-nuts […]. The annual value of Afghan exports into Iran was approximately 40 lakhs of rupees. As the annual value of Iranian exports into Afghanistan was only 30 lakhs of rupees, Iran was compelled to export specie into Afghanistan to the value of 10 lakhs. Besides specie, she exported raw silk from Gilan, silk products of Yazd and Ktshdn, embroidered satins, velvets and brocades, lace, gold thread and Isfahdni gold cloth, silk handkerchiefs, products made of Kirmin wool, some European cloth, a coarse cotton cloth (of which the best came from Isfahan), diamonds, rubies, emeralds and pearls, hardware, saffron, and-most curious of all-Masulipatam chintz which was brought from the Coromandel to Bushire and from thence into Afghanistan. In return, Iran imported from Afghanistan Kashmir shawls, carpets of Herat, coarse Multan chintz, Indian brocades, muslins and other cotton goods, drugs, rhubarb, indigo and the fine horses of the countryside around Herat” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CS9K7MKS\">[Hambly, 1964, pp. 78-79]</a> “Qajar men's costume of the upper classes was quite elaborate. The undergarments consisted of a piraban, a collarless, round-necked long shirt in a thin cotton or silk material, white or colored, with a slit on the right-hand side bordered in black and fastened with buttons. This shirt was worn over loose trousers tapering to the ankle. Delicate short socks were worn on the feet covered by loose shoes which could easily be taken off, as was the custom upon entering a room. A jacket or a long robe called arkhulaq covered the piraban and came down to the knees. The arkhulaq of the rich could be very elaborate, often made of cashmere and always embroidered with intricate patterns on the front and on the cuffs. The best arkhulaq came from Benares (Varanasi) in India. A qaba was worn over the arkhulaq and the entire costume. It was a full length robe in solid colors of brocade with a full skirt open in the front and closed with a belt, shawl or sash. The belt could have a jeweled buckle. The shawl could be cashmere and the sash silk or satin […]. This was the most important item of clothing: aside from designating gender, the type of kola worn specified social, political and religious affiliations. Members of the 'ulama and the merchant classes did not wear a qaba but wore another type of long robe known as 'aba over a less elaborate arkhulaq. Their heads were also covered by an ‘amama , a long piece of cloth wound into a turban. Different colored ‘amamas were used by different professions and for various occasions. The affluent also could wear the (aba informally and as leisure wear at home. After the mid-nineteenth century and the introduction of Western customs, aspects of this attire changed. Men started wearing a version of the European frock coat (sardari ), usually in dark colors with a military cut over wide straight trousers. The sardari was different from the frock coat in that it had pleats at the waist and wider sleeves. The notables who adopted this costume wore an astrakhan cap in the shape of a pillbox on their heads. However, the religious and lower classes continued to wear the traditional attire” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P27ZMRHT\">[Mahdavi 2012, p. 367]</a> “Qajar men's costume of the upper classes was quite elaborate. The undergarments consisted of a piraban, a collarless, round-necked long shirt in a thin cotton or silk material, white or colored, with a slit on the right-hand side bordered in black and fastened with buttons. This shirt was worn over loose trousers tapering to the ankle. Delicate short socks were worn on the feet covered by loose shoes which could easily be taken off, as was the custom upon entering a room. A jacket or a long robe called arkhulaq covered the piraban and came down to the knees. The arkhulaq of the rich could be very elaborate, often made of cashmere and always embroidered with intricate patterns on the front and on the cuffs. The best arkhulaq came from Benares (Varanasi) in India. A qaba was worn over the arkhulaq and the entire costume. It was a full length robe in solid colors of brocade with a full skirt open in the front and closed with a belt, shawl or sash. The belt could have a jeweled buckle. The shawl could be cashmere and the sash silk or satin […]. This was the most important item of clothing: aside from designating gender, the type of kola worn specified social, political and religious affiliations. Members of the 'ulama and the merchant classes did not wear a qaba but wore another type of long robe known as 'aba over a less elaborate arkhulaq. Their heads were also covered by an ‘amama , a long piece of cloth wound into a turban. Different colored ‘amamas were used by different professions and for various occasions. The affluent also could wear the (aba informally and as leisure wear at home. After the mid-nineteenth century and the introduction of Western customs, aspects of this attire changed. Men started wearing a version of the European frock coat (sardari ), usually in dark colors with a military cut over wide straight trousers. The sardari was different from the frock coat in that it had pleats at the waist and wider sleeves. The notables who adopted this costume wore an astrakhan cap in the shape of a pillbox on their heads. However, the religious and lower classes continued to wear the traditional attire” (Mahdavi 2012: 367) <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P27ZMRHT\">[Mahdavi 2012]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 60,
"polity": {
"id": 374,
"name": "ir_safavid_emp",
"long_name": "Safavid Empire",
"start_year": 1501,
"end_year": 1722
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 374,
"name": "ir_safavid_emp",
"long_name": "Safavid Empire",
"start_year": 1501,
"end_year": 1722
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Throughout the 10th/16th century, in spite of frequent Persian-Turkish hostilities, the external trade of Persia persisted. In terms of Persian exports the main commodity was silk, which was exported in quantity to Turkey where it was either consumed in the Turkish silk industry based at Bursa or purchased by Venetian merchants for European markets” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/87MQJ3QG\">[Ferrier,_R 1986, p. 439]</a> “First among the commodities from England vendible in Persia were cloths, either broad cloths in various bright colours, of which in lengths of 32 yards […], between 600 and 1,000 might be sold yearly for 34—36 shahis a yard, or kersies, a rougher cloth” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/87MQJ3QG\">[Ferrier,_R 1986, p. 448]</a> “To the ordinary people who wore rough cloth, it was hoped to sell kerseys. The wealthier people wore broad cloth. \"They talke such of London clothes\" or those from Venice and preferred bright colours; \"violets in graine and fine reds be most worne\" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/87MQJ3QG\">[Ferrier,_R 1986, p. 433]</a> (An English visitor describing use of imported cloth in Persia)",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 61,
"polity": {
"id": 191,
"name": "it_papal_state_2",
"long_name": "Papal States - Renaissance Period",
"start_year": 1378,
"end_year": 1527
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“In 1509, the Bolognese dealer’s inventory included 47 different pairs of stockings for his customers to choose from, including those in the livery colours of different families and political factions […] In addition to stockings, his shop had 33 doublets […] an elegant black taffeta top […] some items such as a pair of detachable sleeves in silver cloth [..] seem a remarkable bargain.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SXKA7S3D\">[Welch 2005, pp. 158-159]</a> “In 1509, the Bolognese dealer’s inventory included 47 different pairs of stockings for his customers to choose from, including those in the livery colours of different families and political factions […] In addition to stockings, his shop had 33 doublets […] an elegant black taffeta top […] some items such as a pair of detachable sleeves in silver cloth [..] seem a remarkable bargain. […]it was not simply the lower classes who bargained. Purchasers of […] silk or woollen cloth were just as if not more likely to negotiate […] While personal involvement in service might, at a stretch, be appropriate for elite banking […] and spice trades […] most shop business was supposed to be undertaken by artisans […] In 1437, for instance, a buyer picked up a red velvet gown and gold fringes and a waistband embroidered with gold lettering for the substantial sum of 62.10 lire.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SXKA7S3D\">[Welch 2005, pp. 69-215]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 62,
"polity": {
"id": 192,
"name": "it_papal_state_3",
"long_name": "Papal States - Early Modern Period I",
"start_year": 1527,
"end_year": 1648
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 175,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_2",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire II",
"start_year": 1517,
"end_year": 1683
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“bright white linen shirts and accessories are generally associated with the elite […] the Franceschini inventory describes a little box containing a cap trimmed with gold, a pair of cuffs with lily-shaped gold lace (giglietti d’oro), two pairs of simple cuffs (manichini semplici), a woman’s collar and three ruffled collars of bisso, a fine linen. Additionally, the document lists numerous women’s collars, some with gold embroidery and others with ruffles. […] Decorated shirts, ruffled collars and lace-trimmed cuffs are often assumed to have been limited to the wealthy as indicators of their status; however, men and women from the lower social orders also owned and wore ornate collars, cuffs and ruffs.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GTTPVWNF\">[Robinson 2021, pp. 7-12]</a> “European countries were importing raw materials and goods produced within the Ottoman Empire itself, as well as Asian goods which had to pass through Istanbul, Bursa, Aleppo, and other Ottoman hubs. Some of the most prominent imports […] woollen yarn […] and Indian cotton textiles […] During the 17th century […] Ottoman exports began to turn away from finished merchandise such as […] silk textiles, and other luxury items, and instead began to intensify the focus on bulkier products that required easy access to sea routes, such as […] cottons, and woollen items, along with raw silk” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QP8EDUT5\">[Garwood 2017, p. 38]</a> “Decorated shirts, ruffled collars and lace-trimmed cuffs are often assumed to have been limited to the wealthy as indicators of their status; however, men and women from the lower social orders also owned and wore ornate collars, cuffs and ruffs.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GTTPVWNF\">[Robinson 2021, p. 10]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 63,
"polity": {
"id": 193,
"name": "it_papal_state_4",
"long_name": "Papal States - Early Modern Period II",
"start_year": 1648,
"end_year": 1809
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 193,
"name": "it_papal_state_4",
"long_name": "Papal States - Early Modern Period II",
"start_year": 1648,
"end_year": 1809
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The unarrogant Roman aristocrat still considered his first obligation that of making a good appearance […] carriages were the great obsession of Rome, her surest status symbol […] fringes on the roof […] only the noble families, registered in the Golden Book of the patriciate, might […] upholster them in velvet. […] bewigged coachman, in brilliant coloured liveries thick with gold braid, drove the nobility of Rome. […] when a coachman of the Prince of Conti earned a flogging, the Governor of Rome insisted that he remove his beautiful laced coat first.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRRAV2CU\">[Andrieux 1968, pp. 44-45]</a> “‘Along with the highly developed native woollen industries, silk became the principal source of international exchange and wealth for Western countries from the thirteenth to the eighteenth centuries’” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5AQ7HWWH\">[Goody 2006, p. 346]</a> “In Europe, clothing for the poor was made of hemp and linen, that for the rich of wool and later imported fabrics. […] the fine wool produced in Italy, and later elsewhere, became a luxury export to the Near East, while silk, originally from China, became the upper-class textile for both the Near East and then Europe. […] the French court started to invite silk manufacturers from Lyon every six months to discuss future designs. By the time that their patterns had been produced and the Italian manufacturers had set up their looms to copy them, the French court was about to place its next order for a new pattern. So the Italian manufacturers were never able to catch up, leading to the collapse of the weaving industry, and eventually of the production of yarn, in Bologna and elsewhere […] In France the speed of change in the design of silk clothing for the aristocracy was so rapid that it led to Bologna’s demise in the 18th century.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5AQ7HWWH\">[Goody 2006, p. 347]</a> “The unarrogant Roman aristocrat still considered his first obligation that of making a good appearance […] carriages were the great obsession of Rome, her surest status symbol […] fringes on the roof […] only the noble families, registered in the Golden Book of the patriciate, might […] upholster them in velvet.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRRAV2CU\">[Andrieux 1968, pp. 44-45]</a> “The scene was the chief salon of the palace […] there were upright chairs, covered in silk or velvet” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRRAV2CU\">[Andrieux 1968, p. 152]</a> “The unarrogant Roman aristocrat still considered his first obligation that of making a good appearance […] carriages were the great obsession of Rome, her surest status symbol […] fringes on the roof […] only the noble families, registered in the Golden Book of the patriciate, might […] upholster them in velvet. […] the shabbiest cardinal had at least three coaches to his name […] with no touch of color but the knots of red silk at the horses’ head.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QRRAV2CU\">[Andrieux 1968, pp. 44-49]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 64,
"polity": {
"id": 545,
"name": "it_venetian_rep_4",
"long_name": "Republic of Venice IV",
"start_year": 1564,
"end_year": 1797
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 175,
"name": "tr_ottoman_emp_2",
"long_name": "Ottoman Empire II",
"start_year": 1517,
"end_year": 1683
},
{
"id": 545,
"name": "it_venetian_rep_4",
"long_name": "Republic of Venice IV",
"start_year": 1564,
"end_year": 1797
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“the spice trade contributed to developing […] Venice […] the Italian city-states of Venice and Verona became major players as the ports of entry for spices coming from distant and obscure eastern regions. […] As the spice-seekers came from various creeds and religions, it fostered an exchange of ideas […] and promoted cross-cultural interactions […] their homes were now furnished with carpets, sofas, and the baldachin (state canopy); their dresses were made of new materials – silk, velvet, damask, and taffeta” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6A92CZWP\">[Narsimhan 2009, p. 25]</a> “Venetian cloth […] had always tended to be of high quality but expensive” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DFK5V9PB\">[Oliver 1972, p. 23]</a> ““San Rocco had 50 silk merchants, 45 mercers, 32 drapers, 27 velvet makers, 20 furriers, 16 hatters and cappers” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PDTIV2I4\">[Pullan 1971, p. 97]</a> “In the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries there was a continual tug of war between Venice and other cities over the production of […] silk fabric […] luxuries in particular were as a rule reserved to Venice […] in the sixteenth century […] Venice […] increased their own silk production” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AAV6AW74\">[Ciriacono 1988, p. 44]</a> “Around the middle of the century came a general efflorescence of Mediterranean trade in which Venice shared […] throughout the century her cloth manufacture, which had rapidly expanded up to the 1560s, continued to flourish” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DFK5V9PB\">[Oliver 1972, p. 23]</a> “The production of gold-silk and brocade fabrics was certainly the flagship of the Venetian manufacturing sector.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6B3S3JQN\">[Viale 2017, p. 19]</a> \"European countries were importing raw materials and goods produced within the Ottoman Empire itself, as well as Asian goods which had to pass through Istanbul, Bursa, Aleppo, and other Ottoman hubs. […] During the 17th century, however, Ottoman exports began to turn away from finished merchandise such as porcelain, silk textiles, and other luxury items, and instead began to intensify the focus on bulkier products that required easy access to sea routes, such as fruits, cottons, and woollen items (Goffman 2002a: 27) along with raw silk (Trivellato 2009: 114). Mohair, too, was a lucrative trade, enough to entice even more modest traders from smaller towns in the Ottoman Empire to make the sometimes quite dangerous journey on the caravan roads of the Balkans towards the markets of Europe (Faroqhi 2014: 79).\" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QP8EDUT5\">[Garwood 2017, p. 38]</a> “Venetian writer Francesco Sansovino in 1581 […] had a good eye and voluble pen [he said] ‘almost everyone has his house adorned with noble tapestries, silk drapes and gilded leather’” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/VE43SBDG\">[Brown 2000, p. 296]</a> “fine cloth and silk fabrics were mostly produced for export […] when they were sold on the home market, they were accessible only to a limited circle of well-to-do consumers” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/H2KQR223\">[Felloni 1988, p. 156]</a> “To emphasize the untouchable holiness of sacred objects and to compete for attention with the rich white, black, scarlet, and vermillion robes of the noble participants, the canons and scuole grandi members carried ever larger, more gilded and bejewelled reliquaries, which eventually required four or more men to support them” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5DMDWGKP\">[Muir 1979, p. 40]</a> “Because of this additional facet of splendour, men of lesser standing could also aim for virtue through the variety of means by which goods were recirculated, including pawnbrokers and auctions. […] Innkeepers in Venice were also known to auction off any lost-and-found items, along with goods left as collateral for loans. (Through these means, families of artisans, shopkeepers, and the like might acquire silk […] Regardless of the ways by which less-wealthy members of society were able to procure luxury goods, the fact that they possessed these items at all divulges an awareness of the expanding material world of the early modern period, and a desire to take part in these changes despite monetary constraints” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QP8EDUT5\">[Garwood 2017, p. 67]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 65,
"polity": {
"id": 151,
"name": "jp_azuchi_momoyama",
"long_name": "Japan - Azuchi-Momoyama",
"start_year": 1568,
"end_year": 1603
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 151,
"name": "jp_azuchi_momoyama",
"long_name": "Japan - Azuchi-Momoyama",
"start_year": 1568,
"end_year": 1603
},
{
"id": 570,
"name": "es_spanish_emp_2",
"long_name": "Spanish Empire II",
"start_year": 1716,
"end_year": 1814
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The kind of commodities introduced from the outside was indicated by the new words, derived from Portugese or Spanish […] these included birodo (velludo, velvet), rasha (raxa, woolen cloth), sarasa (printed cotton), jiban (underwear), kappa (waterproof coat)’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QW6KBXR7\">[Hane 1991, p. 128]</a> “In 1543 some Portuguese seamen whose vessel was blown off course on the island of Tanegashima […] the Western merchants brought to Japan silk fabrics […] and apparel from China, India, and other Asian countries.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QW6KBXR7\">[Hane 1991, p. 122]</a> “In 1586, in the midst of the construction, a delegation of Jesuit priests was welcomed to the castle and Hideyoshi personally guided them through the donjon. The account, by Luis Frois, relates: He acted as a guide just as if he were a private individual […] Thus he would say, […] this other compartment is full of bales of silk and damask, that one with robes.” In one of the chambers through which we passed, there were ten or twelve new cloaks, dyed a scarlet hue and hanging on silk cords – a most unusual sight in Japan” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/T6SRH5F6\">[Hickman 1996, p. 33]</a> “Silk remained the preferred material for clothes of the rich” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F6Q886MJ\">[Hanley 1997, p. 95]</a> “An East Asian trading network centered on the exchange of Chinese silk for Japanese silver sprang up by the beginning of the sixteenth century, […] in 1557, officially sanctioned trade between China and Japan came to a halt. This […] left a vacuum that was quickly filled by indirect trade (via Korea, Ryūkyū, etc.) along routes already established by this time, by pirates and other unauthorized private traders, and by Portuguese and Spanish trading vessels.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CG4SVC7P\">[Yasunori 2013]</a> “Kyoto was also the chief center of trade and industry, and the home of skilled craftsmen who produced fine lacquers, pottery, elegant textiles, metalwares, and other luxury goods for affluent members of the aristocracy, clergy, warrior, and merchant classes.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/T6SRH5F6\">[Hickman 1996, p. 24]</a> Foreign: Portugal, Spain, China, India, Persia, but note that much luxury fabric came to Japan via Portuguese traders, and that these traders operated under Spanish rule.“Kyoto was also the chief center of trade and industry, and the home of skilled craftsmen who produced fine lacquers, pottery, elegant textiles, metalwares, and other luxury goods for affluent members of the aristocracy, clergy, warrior, and merchant classes.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/T6SRH5F6\">[Hickman 1996, p. 24]</a> “Among the varied memorabilia reputedly used by Hideyoshi and still preserved in the Kodaiji is a sleeveless jimbaori made from a rare Persian textile which has woven into the fabric traditional Persian pictorial motifs […] that would have been appropriate for a garment worn by a high military figure. It is likely the garment (or original textile) was brought to Japan by Portuguese traders, and it serves as an instructive example of the kind of exotic objects associtated with the Namban trade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/T6SRH5F6\">[Hickman 1996, p. 48]</a> “The kind of commodities introduced from the outside was indicated by the new words, derived from Portugese or Spanish […] these included birodo (velludo, velvet), rasha (raxa, woolen cloth), sarasa (printed cotton), jiban (underwear), kappa (waterproof coat)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QW6KBXR7\">[Hane 1991, p. 128]</a> ‘Kyoto was also the chief center of trade and industry, and the home of skilled craftsmen who produced fine lacquers, pottery, elegant textiles, metalwares, and other luxury goods for affluent members of the aristocracy, clergy, warrior, and merchant classes.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/T6SRH5F6\">[Hickman 1996, p. 24]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 66,
"polity": {
"id": 150,
"name": "jp_sengoku_jidai",
"long_name": "Warring States Japan",
"start_year": 1467,
"end_year": 1568
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 269,
"name": "cn_ming_dyn",
"long_name": "Great Ming",
"start_year": 1368,
"end_year": 1644
},
{
"id": 270,
"name": "kr_joseon",
"long_name": "Joseon Dynasty",
"start_year": 1392,
"end_year": 1567
},
{
"id": 150,
"name": "jp_sengoku_jidai",
"long_name": "Warring States Japan",
"start_year": 1467,
"end_year": 1568
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silk. Cotton. Pongee thread. Brocade. Red thread. “Prior to this period Japanese garments had been made largely of silk and hemp. With the increased production of cotton in Korea in the fifteenth century, the Japanese began increasingly to utilize cotton fabrics for clothing” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QW6KBXR7\">[Hane 1991, p. 102]</a> “In this period […] gold was an important export for Japan, and was exchanged for raw silk, silk materials etc., in China.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QIIAN422\">[Kobata 1997, p. 61]</a> “The \"trade called bafan\" of the 1550s was the culmination of a long seafaring tradition in Japan. The political conditions of that confused time of Japanese history - at the climax of the Sengoku period (1467- 1573) before unification - permitted the existence of armed groups that ventured overseas seeking gain. […] According to Chinese sources, the Japanese above all sought raw silk (which fetched ten times its Chinese price in Japan), floss silk, cotton cloth (\"because they do not have cotton wool\"), pongee thread, brocade, red thread” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5JKRCJKJ\">[Elisonas 2008, p. 260]</a> “Japan exported to China […] and, in return, imported […] raw silks, cotton thread, fine fabrics” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QW6KBXR7\">[Hane 1991, p. 102]</a> “With the increased production of cotton in Korea in the fifteenth century, the Japanese began increasingly to utilize cotton fabrics for clothing. In the sixteenth century Japan began growing her own cotton.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/QW6KBXR7\">[Hane 1991, p. 102]</a> “An East Asian trading network centered on the exchange of Chinese silk for Japanese silver sprang up by the beginning of the sixteenth century, […] in 1557, officially sanctioned trade between China and Japan came to a halt. This […] left a vacuum that was quickly filled by indirect trade (via Korea, Ryūkyū, etc.) along routes already established by this time, by pirates and other unauthorized private traders, and by Portuguese and Spanish trading vessels.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CG4SVC7P\">[Yasunori 2013]</a> “In the fifteenth century's last decades, it appeared more and more that an insatiable Japanese demand for Korean cotton cloth was depleting the country's supply of a precious manufactured product, which was also used as a medium of exchange. (The cultivation of cotton in Japan itself was barely beginning as the century ended).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5JKRCJKJ\">[Elisonas 2008, p. 246]</a> .“Kyoto was also the chief center of trade and industry, and the home of skilled craftsmen who produced […] elegant textiles, […] other luxury goods for affluent members of the aristocracy, clergy, warrior, and merchant classes.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/T6SRH5F6\">[Hickman 1996, p. 24]</a> “Silk remained the preferred material for clothes of the rich” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/F6Q886MJ\">[Hanley 1997, p. 95]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 67,
"polity": {
"id": 152,
"name": "jp_tokugawa_shogunate",
"long_name": "Tokugawa Shogunate",
"start_year": 1603,
"end_year": 1868
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 1,
"name": "cn_qing_dyn_1",
"long_name": "Early Qing",
"start_year": 1644,
"end_year": 1796
},
{
"id": 152,
"name": "jp_tokugawa_shogunate",
"long_name": "Tokugawa Shogunate",
"start_year": 1603,
"end_year": 1868
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Silk remained the preferred material for the rich as it had been for over a millennium.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FR896GQ7\">[Hanley 2008, p. 690]</a> “The rich used silk for their quilts; the rest of the population used anything available.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FR896GQ7\">[Hanley 2008, p. 677]</a> “the significant growth in textile output both before and after the opening to trade in the mid-nineteenth century was in large part consumed domestically, in the form of […] luxury silk for the better-off” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DF7U7W8R\">[Francks 2009, p. 12]</a> “richly dyed materials, and gold and silver embroidery were used by the wealthy.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FR896GQ7\">[Hanley 2008, p. 690]</a> “The early Tokugawa period saw] the development of a commercial economy, especially in the central, south and west Japan, that finally proved disruptive of the traditional village structure. […] Instead . . . he could turn to one of the cash crops for which the growth of city culture and the rise in standards of living had created a demand: […] silk […] and others” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DTHP9XA2\">[McNabb 2016, pp. 185-186]</a> “Other specific policies implemented by the Edo shogunate also had an impact on the high-quality silk-weaving trade that was concentrated in the Nishijin section of Kyoto. The restriction of foreign trade to Nagasaki, a city under direct shogunal administration; the beginning of the tally trade in silk thread with China; and the granting to designated merchants of exclusive rights to deal in imported raw silk thread (referred to as shiraito) all affected business conditions in Kyoto. The raw silk thread imported through Nagasaki was shipped to Kyoto, along with high-quality silk cloth and other textiles produced in China.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/C6AIUKSD\">[Hall_Nobuhiko_McClain 1991, p. 691]</a> ”the better-off and ‘middling’ sort […] bought ‘prohibited’ silk to wear on special occasions.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/DF7U7W8R\">[Francks 2009, p. 15]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 68,
"polity": {
"id": 43,
"name": "kh_khmer_k",
"long_name": "Khmer Kingdom",
"start_year": 1432,
"end_year": 1594
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 409,
"name": "bd_bengal_sultanate",
"long_name": "Bengal Sultanate",
"start_year": 1338,
"end_year": 1538
},
{
"id": 269,
"name": "cn_ming_dyn",
"long_name": "Great Ming",
"start_year": 1368,
"end_year": 1644
},
{
"id": 150,
"name": "jp_sengoku_jidai",
"long_name": "Warring States Japan",
"start_year": 1467,
"end_year": 1568
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“In the early sixteenth century the Phnom Penh regional marketplace dealt in imported yarn (mostly Chinese and Japanese silk threads), sulphur, mercury, copper, lead, and porcelain largely supplied by Chinese primary and Japanese secondary commercial diaspora who lived near Phnom Penh—said by Portuguese sources to number 3000 in the early sixteenth century.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3DFKWHTD\">[Hall_Smith 2018, p. 13]</a> “The following traveller’s account Suma Oriental of Tome Pires (1512–1513) provides details: ‘[…] Trade goods in Camboja (include) fine white Bengalla [northern Bay of Bengal] cloth, a little pepper, cloves, cinnabar, mercury, liquid storax, and red pearls. […]’” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3DFKWHTD\">[Hall_Smith 2018, pp. 12-13]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 69,
"polity": {
"id": 432,
"name": "ma_saadi_sultanate",
"long_name": "Saadi Sultanate",
"start_year": 1554,
"end_year": 1659
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "It seems reasonable to infer that textiles reserved for “rulers and their entourage” were of relatively high or rare quality and therefore could be considered to have been “luxury fabrics”. ‘The immense quantity of textiles produced during the period of the Arab dominion was not reserved entirely for the rulers and their entourage: there is also abundant evidence for an active market in ‘domestic’ textiles throughout North Africa and Spain.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2996AFHU\">[Spring_Hudson 0, p. 20]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 70,
"polity": {
"id": 229,
"name": "ml_mali_emp",
"long_name": "Mali Empire",
"start_year": 1230,
"end_year": 1410
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 229,
"name": "ml_mali_emp",
"long_name": "Mali Empire",
"start_year": 1230,
"end_year": 1410
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silk; cotton; linen; other luxury fabrics. “[Referring to royal audiences under Mansa Musa and his uncle, ruler Mansa Sulayman] Over the mansa’s [Mansa Musa] head one of the slaves held a large silk parasol topped by a golden falcon. […] When the mansa [Mansa Sulayman] was sitting in the pavilion [the palace throne room]…a signal flag on a silken cord was hung out a window…On other days the mansa held audiences under a giant tree, where the throne was on a raised platform…Above the silk upholstered throne was a large silken sunshade topped by a golden falcon, similar to the one at Mansa Musa’s court. […] [Referring to Dugha, Chief jeli or bard of Mansa Sulayman’s court] As chief of the jeliw [bards], Dugha was one of the best-dressed people at the Mali court…He wore a turban, fine garments of silk brocade…On the day described by Ibn Battuta [when in Mali attending the celebration that follows Ramadan], Dugha came out with…about 100 young women dressed in fine clothes…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, p. 37]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, p. 43]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, pp. 86-87]</a> “[Referring to royal audiences under Mansa Musa’s uncle, ruler Mansa Sulayman] On audience days, the emperor sat in an alcove…it had three windows…These windows had curtains: a handkerchief with Egyptian designs, attached to a silken cord, was slipped through the grillwork that protected them [the Mansa] on audience days. […] Sometimes the audience was held inside the palace courtyard. Then a silk-covered seat mounted on three tiers was placed under a tree; this throne was called ben-bi. A cushion was placed on it and the whole thing covered by a dome-shaped silken parasol, with a golden bird at the top, as large as a hawk…The Mansa [Mansa Sulayman]…wore a turban of gold cloth bound by golden ribbons ending in metal tips more than a palm in length, looking like daggers. He wore a red coat, of European material: the montenfès”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NI9JX6I5\">[Diop 1987, pp. 84-85]</a> “[Referring to the political and administrative organisation of the Mali Empire under Mansa Musa] Cotton was grown everywhere…Artisans crafted…textiles…Every year thousands of caravans crossed the Sahara bringing…fabrics…fabrics were sometimes used as currency. […] …taxes could be paid using…cotton…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SF4689A5\">[Maïga 2009, pp. 28-29]</a> “Cotton growing was widespread throughout the [Mali] empire by the end of the fifteenth century… […] Weaving also flourished; there was considerable trade among the provinces of the [Mali] empire in rolls of cotton, which were exported to the peoples in the south. Cloth dyed with indigo quickly became a speciality of the Takrur and Soninke peoples. A special clan, the Mabo, handled weaving and dyeing in Takrur. […] [Referring to caravans from the Mali Empire travelling to the coast] …to exchange gold for…black and blue cotton cloth, linen, fabrics from India, red yarn, and even garments ornamented with gold and silver”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XTE5GGEJ\">[Niane 1984, p. 165]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XTE5GGEJ\">[Niane 1984, p. 170]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XTE5GGEJ\">[Niane 1984, p. 176]</a> Cotton; linen; other luxury fabrics. “[Referencing Ibn Battuta’s account of his visit to Mali] The Mansa [Mansa Sulayman]…wore a red coat, of European material: the montenfès”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NI9JX6I5\">[Diop 1987, p. 85]</a> “[Referring to the political and administrative organisation of the Mali Empire under Mansa Musa] Cotton was grown everywhere…Artisans crafted…textiles…Every year thousands of caravans crossed the Sahara bringing…fabrics…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SF4689A5\">[Maïga 2009, p. 28]</a> “Cotton growing was widespread throughout the [Mali] empire by the end of the fifteenth century… […] …there was considerable trade among the provinces of the [Mali] empire in rolls of cotton, which were exported to the peoples in the south. Cloth dyed with indigo quickly became a speciality of the Takrur and Soninke peoples. A special clan, the Mabo, handled weaving and dyeing in Takrur. […] [Referring to caravans from the Mali Empire travelling to the coast] …to exchange gold for…black and blue cotton cloth, linen, fabrics from India, red yarn, and even garments ornamented with gold and silver”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XTE5GGEJ\">[Niane 1984, p. 165]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XTE5GGEJ\">[Niane 1984, p. 170]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/XTE5GGEJ\">[Niane 1984, p. 176]</a> Silk; other luxury fabrics. [Referring to royal audiences under Mansa Musa and his uncle, ruler Mansa Sulayman] Over the mansa’s [Mansa Musa] head one of the slaves held a large silk parasol topped by a golden falcon. […] When the mansa [Mansa Sulayman] was sitting in the pavilion [the palace throne room]…a signal flag on a silken cord was hung out a window…On other days the mansa held audiences under a giant tree, where the throne was on a raised platform…Above the silk upholstered throne was a large silken sunshade topped by a golden falcon, similar to the one at Mansa Musa’s court. […] [Referring to Dugha, Chief jeli or bard of Mansa Sulayman’s court] As chief of the jeliw [bards], Dugha was one of the best-dressed people at the Mali court…He wore a turban, fine garments of silk brocade…On the day described by Ibn Battuta [when in Mali attending the celebration that follows Ramadan], Dugha came out with…about 100 young women dressed in fine clothes…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, p. 37]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, p. 43]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, pp. 86-87]</a> Silk; other luxury fabrics. “[Referring to Dugha, Chief jeli or bard of Mansa Sulayman’s court] As chief of the jeliw [bards], Dugha was one of the best-dressed people at the Mali court…He wore a turban, fine garments of silk brocade…On the day described by Ibn Battuta [when in Mali attending the celebration that follows Ramadan], Dugha came out with…about 100 young women dressed in fine clothes…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/GCWPIU7F\">[Conrad 2005, pp. 86-87]</a> Cotton; linen; other luxury fabrics. “[Referring to the political and administrative organisation of the Mali Empire under Mansa Musa] Cotton was grown everywhere…Artisans crafted…textiles…Every year thousands of caravans crossed the Sahara bringing…fabrics…fabrics were sometimes used as currency. […] …taxes could be paid using…cotton…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SF4689A5\">[Maïga 2009, pp. 28-29]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 71,
"polity": {
"id": 242,
"name": "ml_songhai_2",
"long_name": "Songhai Empire - Askiya Dynasty",
"start_year": 1493,
"end_year": 1591
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "North Africa",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The first Europeans to infiltrate the trading market established between West and North Africa were the Portuguese, who between 1480 and 1540, controlled the Atlantic coastline from Morocco and the Guinea gulf. They engaged in a profitable trade with West Africa, exchanging copper and cloth in particular for slaves and gold, thus successfully eliminating the Sahara middlemen. They maintained a string of trading stations and distribution centres around western Morocco, which included Tangier, Ceuta, Mogador, Agadir and Safi with an isolated post at Arguim on the Saharan coast. For centuries North African cloth had been traded south through the trans-Saharan routes; the Portuguese quickly realised the commercial potential in supplying an eager West African population with these prestigious woollen cloths via the seaward route. Their success in this area was secured by their ability to supply the three most popular types of cloth: aljaravias, alquices and lambens.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/2996AFHU\">[Spring_Hudson 0, p. 24]</a> “Niger society was an ordered and cultivated society, at least at the level of the aristocracy. They liked ample garments and babush, the easy life of the home, highly spiced food and above all good company.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/587CAWSP\">[Cissoko_Niane 1984, p. 207]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 72,
"polity": {
"id": 443,
"name": "mn_mongol_late",
"long_name": "Late Mongols",
"start_year": 1368,
"end_year": 1690
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 269,
"name": "cn_ming_dyn",
"long_name": "Great Ming",
"start_year": 1368,
"end_year": 1644
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silk included in the “luxury articles” the Mongols obtained from the Ming. “If the Mongols in general would have preferred tribute and trade relations to warfare, the nobility and the rich were more interested in the silks and other luxury articles with which the Ming government paid for the tribute articles, but foodstuffs and other daily commodities so eagerly sought by the common people, as a rule came from trade, especially from trade at the border fairs.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/58BKWEGB\">[Serruys 1975, p. 39]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 73,
"polity": {
"id": 444,
"name": "mn_zungharian_emp",
"long_name": "Zungharian Empire",
"start_year": 1670,
"end_year": 1757
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 2,
"name": "cn_qing_dyn_2",
"long_name": "Late Qing",
"start_year": 1796,
"end_year": 1912
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "‘\" “The various tribes brought silk fabrics and red-colored trays as gifts. Gardan remarked, \"The journey is long, and we can't bring other items, but we must show our gratitude.\" He then instructed one of the Tajijis to present a horse, and the messenger returned with several hundred magnificent horses. They were also given vibrant embroidered garments made with woven gold. Gardan proudly displayed all these items, inviting the Tajijis and other tribes to come and admire them. Gaerdan pointed at the items and exclaimed, \"Look!\" The tribes responded in unison, \"Look!\" Gaerdan said, \"These are rare in our land, they are products from the Central Plain.\" The tribes were all captivated and reluctant to leave, as they were shown the beauty.（诸夏馈以缯帛、赤色盘。嘎尔旦曰：“路远，他物不能去，然不可无报德者”。乃令一台吉出一马，使者遂驱名马数百骑以归。又与以织金的大蟒、立蟒刺绣诸彩色。嘎尔旦皆罗列露文绣于外，引各台吉及各夷来视之。嘎尔旦顾指之曰：“筛！”诸夷合声曰：“筛！”嘎尔旦曰：“我国独少此，此中国物也”。诸夷咸艳慕之，徘徊不能去云。盖示以中国之美也。）” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SU3EDIMF\">[Liang 1987, p. 421]</a> “The Zunghar pastoralists of that time had to buy cotton wadding, cotton thread for themselves, as well as satin, silk embroidery, and other materials used by the nobility, from the Central Plains region.(当时准噶尔部牧民所用的棉絮、棉线以及台吉、宰桑用的锦缎、丝绣等物，均需向中原地区购买。)” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8UMVK3EK\">[Editorial_Team 2007, p. 87]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 74,
"polity": {
"id": 776,
"name": "mw_maravi_emp",
"long_name": "Maravi Empire",
"start_year": 1622,
"end_year": 1870
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "\"It is also likely that the people of Mankhamba imported perishable items such as cloth to supplement their own locally made material \" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WGKGFX2X\">[Juwayeyi 2020, p. 187]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 75,
"polity": {
"id": 775,
"name": "mw_northern_maravi_k",
"long_name": "Northern Maravi Kingdom",
"start_year": 1500,
"end_year": 1621
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "\"The first is that before the rise of Muzura, the Lower Shire Valley and a section of the Zambezi River Valley were under Lundu’s control. Commercially, this was a strategic area in view of the presence of trading stations of the Portuguese at Sena and Tete. The Portuguese had frequent contacts with him. They bought ivory, machila cloth and other products from him. Secondly, the Lower Shire Valley had plenty of water and fertile land.\" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WGKGFX2X\">[Juwayeyi 2020, p. 202]</a> \"In 1608, Bocarro visited Muzura and exchanged gifts…..Bocarro gave Muzura calico, beads, silk cloth and bed sheets. \" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WGKGFX2X\">[Juwayeyi 2020, p. 197]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 76,
"polity": {
"id": 16,
"name": "mx_aztec_emp",
"long_name": "Aztec Empire",
"start_year": 1427,
"end_year": 1526
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 16,
"name": "mx_aztec_emp",
"long_name": "Aztec Empire",
"start_year": 1427,
"end_year": 1526
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Of course, noble polygynous households could produce many times the amount of cloth than commoner households; it is likely that they manufactured more highly decorated , and hence more highly valued cloth.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P4UCU45A\">[Berdan 2023, pp. 20-25]</a> “Tribute paid to Aztec overlords included many types and considerable quantities of fully or partially manufactured goods: textiles (some elaborately decorated), feathered warrior costumes and shields, fine greenstone beads, turquoise mosaics, gold ornaments, lip plugs, copper bells and axes, bowls, smoking tubes, paper, and wooden carrying frames (Berdan and Anawalt, 1992, vol. 3).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P4UCU45A\">[Berdan 2023, pp. 57-58]</a> “Large white cotton cloaks are also frequently mentioned as serving money functions. Higher in value, the cloaks complemented cacao beans in economic exchanges (one quachtli was worth 65–100 cacao beans).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P4UCU45A\">[Berdan 2023, pp. 68-70]</a> “At these lower altitudes, frost is not a hazard, rainfall is somewhat higher, and crops that could not be grown in the Basin, such as cotton , were important.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/JRFZPUXU\">[Cowgill 2015, p. 30]</a> “Spinning and weaving were learned by all women whether noble or commoner, rich or poor, urban or rural, and regardless of geographic location. Women manufactured textiles almost entirely from cotton and leaf fibers, particularly maguey (Figures 5 and 6). [...] Cotton, of several varieties, grew only in lowland regions… Yet women throughout the Aztec domain, including those in highland regions, produced cotton. [...] Other materials that may or may not have been employed included dyes, small feathers, and rabbit fur. Depending on the household’s location and resources, these may have been provided in-house or purchased in a nearby marketplace. [...] Of course, noble polygynous households could produce many times the amount of cloth than commoner households; it is likely that they manufactured more highly decorated , and hence more highly valued cloth. Priestesses, also, spent much of their time in cloth production.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P4UCU45A\">[Berdan 2023, pp. 20-25]</a> “Of course, noble polygynous households could produce many times the amount of cloth than commoner households; it is likely that they manufactured more highly decorated , and hence more highly valued cloth. Priestesses, also, spent much of their time in cloth production.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P4UCU45A\">[Berdan 2023, pp. 20-25]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 77,
"polity": {
"id": 532,
"name": "mx_monte_alban_5",
"long_name": "Monte Alban V",
"start_year": 900,
"end_year": 1520
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Other relaciones pertaining to Zapotec-speaking towns supplement these accounts. Elites in Teocuicuilco wore brightly decorated, woven cotton or feathered mantles and shirts as well as lip plugs, earrings, brightly colored feather headdresses, and gold and precious-stone bead necklaces; the common estate wore plain maguey-fiber clothing devoid of ornamentation.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4K7TZ6GA\">[Whitecotton 1984, p. 140]</a> The following quote refers to tributary goods paid to Tututepec and listed in the Relaciones “A second class of goods are identified as valuable raw materials (e.g., gold dust, feathers, cochineal) for crafting highly ornate luxury goods or social valuables, such as jewelry or fancy clothing. A third class of items consist of fungible goods, including cacao, cotton cloth mantas, gold dust, and copper axe-monies—all of which were used as forms of currency during the Late Postclassic (Berdan et al. 2003:101–102).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8B7UJPVP\">[Levine 2011, p. 27]</a> “Social valuables made from exotic materials and requiring special skills to manufacture – such as shell and greenstone ornaments, copper bells, polychrome pottery, painted codices, elegant cotton textiles, and feather capes – were made by specialists attached to the elite or by nobles themselves. Copper axes and cacao were used as a form of currency, although primarily by the nobility.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/FUKFR9MV\">[Joyce 2010, p. 54]</a> “The position of prince carried with it the right to exact tribute and obtain services from the subject population. Most of the relaciones indicate that commoners gave tribute to their prince, although few indicate specifically what was given. Commoners gave maize and some cotton mantles to the prince of Ixtepec. The relación also states that there was no stipulated quantity of mantles or maize, but that they gave whatever the prince demanded and that no accounts were kept. Other towns paid to their princes such things as gold dust, jewelry or gold, precious stones, feathers, jaguar skins, and cotton clothing as well as fowl, maize, chilies, beans, and animals of the hunt, such as rabbits and deer.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4K7TZ6GA\">[Whitecotton 1984, p. 140]</a> “The division into commoners and nobles was accompanied by sumptuary rules pertaining to kinds of dress and ornamentation, diet, and linguistic habits. The caciques and nobles in Huitzo, for example, dressed in brightly woven cotton mantles and loincloths while the common people wore clothing made of maguey fiber. […] In Mitla as well, only nobles consumed rabbits and maize or were allowed to dress in cotton clothing; like their Huitzo counterparts, Mitla commoners had clothing only of maguey. […] Elites in Teocuicuilco wore brightly decorated, woven cotton or feathered mantles and shirts as well as lip plugs, earrings, brightly colored feather headdresses, and gold and precious-stone bead necklaces; the common estate wore plain maguey-fiber clothing devoid of ornamentation.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4K7TZ6GA\">[Whitecotton 1984, p. 143]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 78,
"polity": {
"id": 659,
"name": "ni_allada_k",
"long_name": "Allada",
"start_year": 1100,
"end_year": 1724
},
"year_from": 1651,
"year_to": 1724,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 461,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_2",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Late Bourbon",
"start_year": 1660,
"end_year": 1815
},
{
"id": 709,
"name": "pt_portuguese_emp_2",
"long_name": "Portuguese Empire - Early Modern",
"start_year": 1640,
"end_year": 1806
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a very rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed. Also, a note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity. “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> Though 1788 is after this polity period, I didn’t find anything which might suggest major fabric consumption shifts between 1724 and 1788. An expert should be consulted on this. A note on vocabulary: Ardra is another name for Allada. “fancy hats with gold braid, Spanish lace, white plumes, and such were a favorite gift for African V.I.P.s, but common European hats of all kinds were an important trade good. […] Carpets and rugs came from Turkey, India, Holland, England, and Italy; they were both presents and trade commodities. In 21 years between 1673 and 1704 the RAC sent 32,093 carpets to Africa. Among the gift-carpets was an elegant assortment that the French brought to Ardra in 1788 for the ruler and his court: two of crimson velvet with a wide border of gold lace embroidery, two of Saxony green velvet in the middle, the same border; eight of satin, striped Saxony green on one side, crimson on the other, with the same gold lace border. […] These were the status symbols, the privileges of rank and wealth. They propped up the egos of African kings, chiefs, grandees, and rich merchants, helping to set them apart from the common folk. The roster of trappings would be long: from white satin robes, brocaded silk mantles, gold- trimmed French musketeers' hats, embroidered admirals' uniform flags, multicolored umbrellas […] damask napkins, to velvet-upholstered armchairs with gilt legs, satin-upholstered couches, beds draped taffeta, Turkish carpets” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, pp. 11-12]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, p. 29]</a> A note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity. “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> Though 1788 is after this polity period, I didn’t find anything which might suggest major fabric consumption shifts between 1724 and 1788. A note on vocabulary: Ardra is another name for Allada. An expert should be consulted on this.“fancy hats with gold braid, Spanish lace, white plumes, and such were a favorite gift for African V.I.P.s, but common European hats of all kinds were an important trade good. […] Carpets and rugs came from Turkey, India, Holland, England, and Italy; they were both presents and trade commodities. In 21 years between 1673 and 1704 the RAC sent 32,093 carpets to Africa. Among the gift-carpets was an elegant assortment that the French brought to Ardra in 1788 for the ruler and his court: two of crimson velvet with a wide border of gold lace embroidery, two of Saxony green velvet in the middle, the same border; eight of satin, striped Saxony green on one side, crimson on the other, with the same gold lace border.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, pp. 11-12]</a> NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a very rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed. Also, a note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity. “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil. […] As prescribed by Gbe (and more generally West African) etiquette […] Women dressed in silk cloths wave fans and fly-whisks […] In the early modern era, the integration of “exotic” items derived from intercontinental trade was practiced not only in West African courts, but also in European ones. […] The use of European apparel or Asian cloth by Gbe rulers […] have their counterparts in Louis XIV dressing himself as an Asian ruler to receive the embassy from Ayutthaya” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 145]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 152]</a> Though 1788 is after this polity period, I didn’t find anything which might suggest major fabric consumption shifts between 1724 and 1788. An expert should be consulted on this.“fancy hats with gold braid, Spanish lace, white plumes, and such were a favorite gift for African V.I.P.s, but common European hats of all kinds were an important trade good. […] Carpets and rugs came from Turkey, India, Holland, England, and Italy; they were both presents and trade commodities. In 21 years between 1673 and 1704 the RAC sent 32,093 carpets to Africa. Among the gift-carpets was an elegant assortment that the French brought to Ardra in 1788 for the ruler and his court: two of crimson velvet with a wide border of gold lace embroidery, two of Saxony green velvet in the middle, the same border; eight of satin, striped Saxony green on one side, crimson on the other, with the same gold lace border. […] These were the status symbols, the privileges of rank and wealth. They propped up the egos of African kings, chiefs, grandees, and rich merchants, helping to set them apart from the common folk. The roster of trappings would be long: from white satin robes, brocaded silk mantles, gold- trimmed French musketeers' hats, embroidered admirals' uniform flags, multicolored umbrellas […] damask napkins, to velvet-upholstered armchairs with gilt legs, satin-upholstered couches, beds draped taffeta, Turkish carpets” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, pp. 11-12]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TZH65FPB\">[Alpern 1995, p. 29]</a> NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a very rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed. Also, a note on vocabulary: The Gbe region is/was the area where Gbe languages were spoken. This includes the Allada polity.“As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 79,
"polity": {
"id": 669,
"name": "ni_hausa_k",
"long_name": "Hausa bakwai",
"start_year": 900,
"end_year": 1808
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 669,
"name": "ni_hausa_k",
"long_name": "Hausa bakwai",
"start_year": 900,
"end_year": 1808
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Textiles are finished products which represent not only the material resources of an area but also the culture of a people. In Hausaland, cloth had many functions; for centuries it was used for clothing, to transfer wealth, as a medium of exchange, as tribute, as an item in religious and burial rituals and as a symbol of differences in religious, economic, political, ethnic and social status. The symbolic functions of cloth were as important as the practical ones and influenced the demand for textiles.” […] “In Hausaland cloth was also used as a store of value but it was not used as money, as was the cotton strip (gabaga) in Borno.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3RS5MJZB\">[Candotti 2010, p. 187]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3RS5MJZB\">[Candotti 2010, p. 195]</a> “Textile production involved cotton growing, spinning, weaving, sewing, dyeing, and embroidery. The indigo plant (Indigofera SPP) first grew naturally but then began to be cultivated by the early twentieth century. Cloth manufacturing was common in Igboland, Nupeland, Yorubaland, Benin, and the Hausa states. Many nineteenth- century travelers recorded information about woven textiles and dyeing pots or pits found on their journey. […] According to oral and written accounts, precolonial Kano was a large trading and cloth production center (Olaniyi 2005).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6J59P64H\">[Usman 2022, p. 175]</a> “Different uses required different kinds of cloth, which varied according to size, quality, colour and durability; this led to significant product differentiation and economic specialisation. This helps to explain the development of the textile trade. Cloth-producing areas frequently imported different kinds of cloth from other producing areas. Different techniques of weaving, dyeing and tailoring in various areas contributed to the complex pattern of trading relations within the separate Hausa areas, as well as between them and other areas beyond Hausaland.” […] “In the mid-sixteenth century, the Maguzawa who controlled slaves and iron supplies became allies of the urban authority (Last 1985: 214; Last 1989: 126). This new relationship between town and country benefited the whole local economy, leading to the spread of the cotton and textile industry. In the Kano countryside, according to Leo Africanus, grain and cotton started to be cultivated in large quantities (Ramusio 1554: 84–6). The availability of cotton appears to have been an incentive to the rise of cloth manufacturing in the city. […] During the sixteenth century, Kano had already diversified its cloth production, and indigo-dyed cloth was also produced and exported to Borno and the Tuareg area (Ramusio 1554: 84). On the other hand, North African and luxury European textiles were imported into Kano by North African traders through the Sahara, ‘clothing the rich and sophisticated urban elite; . . . the rural and poor population being almost wild, wearing skin in the winter, while in summer it is enough to cover their private parts with a piece of cloth’ (Anania 1559: 333, 334).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3RS5MJZB\">[Candotti 2010, p. 187]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3RS5MJZB\">[Candotti 2010, pp. 193-194]</a> “Precolonial economies were interdependent and based on long- distance trade before contact with the Europeans (Davidson 1972, 84). Trade took place over very great distances connecting different communities. Gold, salt, ivory, textiles, slaves, and many other products passed along the trans- Saharan trade routes that connected western Africa with the north. […] “From Kano, goods such as salt, glass, beads, silk, leather goods, livestock and horses, and slaves went southwards to Old Oyo and Ilorin, while kola nut, pepper, and other spices were supplied to the north by traders from the area of Old Oyo. The main export of Kano through Old Oyo to the coastal market was human cargo. Other items supplied to the coast included textiles, dyestuffs, and ivory in return for European, Asian, and Mediterranean goods (e.g., textiles and beads, cowry shells, brass, iron, and firearms) (Law 1980).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6J59P64H\">[Usman 2022, p. 179]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6J59P64H\">[Usman 2022, p. 184]</a> “The raw materials iron and cotton were abundant and high demand stimulated highquality crafts. […] Leather, sandals, harnesses and saddles were exported; jewellery, which was regarded as a luxury, was purchased by the wealthy, while clothing, such as tunics, and textile cloth were famed for their quality. Hausaland was also among the areas producing the highest quality woven and dyed goods.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SJ8JS6WR\">[bookSection_The Hausa States]</a> “Luxury clothes were synonymous with cupidity all over the Muslim world. To underline the cupidity of rulers during the seventeenth century, the Kano Chronicle reports that they wore clothes embellished with gold embroidery (Palmer 1928: 24). On the other hand, wearing rich clothes was also a sign of power and wealth. The distribution of wealth in Hausaland was very unequal, compared to industrial societies, and only the wealthy could wear rich clothes. The more luxurious the cloth, the richer were the people wearing it.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3RS5MJZB\">[Candotti 2010, p. 194]</a> “In what might be called the central government, there were several categories of officials: […] 2) The representatives of the guilds were appointed from among the skilled craftsmen, such as blacksmiths, weavers, dyers, tanners, masons, butchers and hunters. They were responsible for relations with the different trades and occupations and, in particular, for collecting the state dues. When necessary, the blacksmiths and hunters, for instance, provided contingents for the army.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SJ8JS6WR\">[bookSection_The Hausa States]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 80,
"polity": {
"id": 667,
"name": "ni_igala_k",
"long_name": "Igala",
"start_year": 1600,
"end_year": 1900
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "’’’ ‘They also protected the Attah’s treasuries, royal robes and regalia’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/I5SA29I3\">[Jacob 1968, p. 398]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 81,
"polity": {
"id": 660,
"name": "ni_igodomingodo",
"long_name": "Igodomingodo",
"start_year": 900,
"end_year": 1450
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The time of the so-called “1st (Ogiso) Dynasty” probably the early 10th first half of 12th centuries, is one of the most mysterious pages of the Benin history. The sources on this period are not abundant. Furthermore, it is obvious that archaeological and ethnohistorical evidence, rather scarce, should be supplemented by an analysis of different records of the oral historical tradition while it is well known that this kind of source is not very much reliable. However, on the other hand, it is generally recognized that it is unreasonable to discredit it completely. Though Benin students have confirmed this conclusion and demonstrated some possibilities of verifying and correcting its evidence, a reconstruction of the early Benin history will inevitably contain many hypothetical suggestions and not so many firm conclusions.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/P4DQ36NB\">[Bondarenko_Roese 2001, pp. 185-186]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 82,
"polity": {
"id": 612,
"name": "ni_nok_1",
"long_name": "Middle and Late Nok",
"start_year": -1500,
"end_year": -901
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "EMPTY_COMMENT",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 83,
"polity": {
"id": 615,
"name": "ni_nok_2",
"long_name": "Middle and Late Nok",
"start_year": -900,
"end_year": 0
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "EMPTY_COMMENT",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 84,
"polity": {
"id": 668,
"name": "ni_nri_k",
"long_name": "Ọ̀ràézè Ǹrì",
"start_year": 1043,
"end_year": 1911
},
"year_from": 1651,
"year_to": 1911,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 461,
"name": "fr_bourbon_k_2",
"long_name": "French Kingdom - Late Bourbon",
"start_year": 1660,
"end_year": 1815
},
{
"id": 709,
"name": "pt_portuguese_emp_2",
"long_name": "Portuguese Empire - Early Modern",
"start_year": 1640,
"end_year": 1806
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> NB The information we have found seems to apply to the period following the rise of the trade in enslaved people; the year “1650” has been chosen as a rough approximation to mark the shift from the era before the rise of the slave trade to the era that followed, based on the fact that “[i]n the late seventeenth century, there was a rise in the relative importance of slaves from sources from north of the Equator, as opposed to from Angola. […] The Bight of Benin, where Anecho became a Portuguese base in 1645, and Whydah an English one in 1672, was of particular importance for slave exports from West Africa.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/NMC66GR7\">[Black 2015, p. 49]</a> “As a result of the slave trade, the influx of foreign goods and their social use as status markers were pronounced phenomena in the Gbe region. In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists. The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil. […] As prescribed by Gbe (and more generally West African) etiquette […] Women dressed in silk cloths wave fans and fly-whisks […] In the early modern era, the integration of “exotic” items derived from intercontinental trade was practiced not only in West African courts, but also in European ones. […] The use of European apparel or Asian cloth by Gbe rulers […] have their counterparts in Louis XIV dressing himself as an Asian ruler to receive the embassy from Ayutthaya” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 145]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 152]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 85,
"polity": {
"id": 663,
"name": "ni_oyo_emp_1",
"long_name": "Oyo",
"start_year": 1300,
"end_year": 1535
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "SSP",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "unknown",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "unknown",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"elite_consumption": "unknown",
"elite_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"common_people_consumption": "unknown",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "SSP",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "\"Contexts that could shed light on the dynamics of social structure and hierarchies in the metropolis, such as the royal burial site of Oyo monarchs and the residences of the elite population, have not been investigated. The mapping of the palace structures has not been followed by systematic excavations (Soper, 1992); and questions of the economy, military system, and ideology of the empire have not been addressed archaeologically, although their general patterns are known from historical studies (e.g, Johnson, 1921; Law, 1977).\" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/PK7F26DP\">[Ogundiran 2005, pp. 151-152]</a> Regarding this period, however, one of the historical studies mentioned in this quote also notes: \"Of the earliest period of Oyo history, before the sixteenth century, very little is known.\" <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SB32ZPCF\">[Law 1977, p. 33]</a> Law does not then go on to provide specific information directly relevant to this variable.",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 86,
"polity": {
"id": 661,
"name": "ni_oyo_emp_2",
"long_name": "Ilú-ọba Ọ̀yọ́",
"start_year": 1601,
"end_year": 1835
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 587,
"name": "gb_british_emp_1",
"long_name": "British Empire I",
"start_year": 1690,
"end_year": 1849
},
{
"id": 632,
"name": "nl_dutch_emp_1",
"long_name": "Dutch Empire",
"start_year": 1648,
"end_year": 1795
},
{
"id": 661,
"name": "ni_oyo_emp_2",
"long_name": "Ilú-ọba Ọ̀yọ́",
"start_year": 1601,
"end_year": 1835
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“Also of considerable importance was the manufacture of cotton cloth. The earliest unequivocal references to cloth made in Oyo date only from the late eighteenth century, but the industry was certainly much older. Oyo cloth was of high quality: in the opinion of the European trader Adams, 'The cloth manufactured in Hio is superior, both for variety of pattern, colour, and dimensions, to any made in the neighbouring countries. […] For the more expensive cloths some use was also made of silk, which was imported from the north, ultimately from across the Sahara” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SB32ZPCF\">[Law 1977, pp. 204-205]</a> The following quote refers to archaeological findings at Ede-Ile, a colony linking Atlantic commerce with the hinterlands “We know that cloth manufacture was a very important component of the industries in Oyo colonies and the metropolis in the early nineteenth century, and constituted valuable capital. The cloth manufacture in Ede-Ile colony could be a branch of the Oyo indigo tie and dye (adire) cloth so frequently commented upon by contemporary observers as \"superior, both for variety of pattern, color, and dimensions, to any made in the neighboring states\" and widely traded between the Gold Coast and the Bight of Benin in exchange for Brazilian tobacco, rum, beads, and imported cloth. In view of the intense cloth manufacture and dyeing that neighboring towns such as Osogbo and Ejigbo were well noted for in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, it is certain that Ede-Ile would have participated in the cloth market, at least between the eastern wing of the Bight of Benin and its hinterlands. Cloth was no doubt the article of the most conspicuous expenditure in Yorubaland, as in other parts of Atlantic Africa and the rest of the world during the seventeenth through the nineteenth century. The reason: the body was the most versatile site for wealth display in Mid- Atlantic Age West Africa. This would explain why cloth was the most mass-produced and sought-after manufacture, the most versatile item convertible to foreign goods, including \"cash\" in the form of cowries; and also one of the chief European imports that traveled far into the hinterlands. The diverse range of imported cloths available on the coast and the hinterlands during the seventeenth century onwards were unprecedented, and Colleen Kriger has made a strong case that not only did local cloth production intensify during this period, but new forms and styles of indigo cloth also developed as a result of the expanded demands in \"local\" cloths within and outside Yorubaland.” […] “It seems that apart from cowries, the imported goods that penetrated inland were generally non-durable and consumable commodities such as tobacco and textiles. Although the regional trading networks of which Ede-Ile was an integral part focused on the coastal commerce, they did not yield significant diversity in the inland flow of European imports. Instead, the economic life of Ede-Ile, and of the empire in general, depended on the production and circulation of local commodities. Some of these were used to procure a wide range of European imports such as silk, damask, and scarlet textiles, as well as beads, metals, and objects of novelty.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, pp. 376-377]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, p. 381]</a> British Empire and Dutch Empire selected because the literature consulted implies they were the Oyo Empire’s main European trading contacts: “Iron tools became a major part of the English and Dutch imports to Yoruba-Edo region in the seventeenth century.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/HXUJMWBD\">[Ogundiran 2003, p. 63]</a> However, the following quotes suggests that much luxury fabric was produced within the Oyo Empire itself. “The cotton used in the manufacture of Oyo cloth was cultivated locally. […] For the more expensive cloths some use was also made of silk, which was imported from the north, ultimately from across the Sahara” […] “Luxury foodstuffs and manufactured goods of high quality could, however, be profitably traded over considerable distances. Oyo cloth, for example, was taken to Dahomey and to Porto Novo.” […] “In the early nineteenth century, Oyo was importing a variety of commodities from the north. From Nupe came hides and cotton cloth. […] From still further afield, from across the Sahara, came unwrought silk and beads of Venetian manufacture.” […] “A considerable proportion of the tributes was paid in cash-for example, Dahomey paid 400 bags of cowries (about $4,000) annually. And part was paid in the form of imported European goods for example, the tribute of Dahomey included coral, European cloth, muskets, and gunpowder and that of Porto Novo consisted of 'the richest European commodities', while within the Qyo kingdom Ilase paid gunpowder, flints, and tobacco and Ifonyin 'cloths and other articles of European manufacture'.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SB32ZPCF\">[Law 1977, pp. 204-205]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SB32ZPCF\">[Law 1977, p. 208]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SB32ZPCF\">[Law 1977, p. 214]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SB32ZPCF\">[Law 1977, p. 231]</a> The following quote refers to archaeological findings at Ede-Ile, a colony linking Atlantic commerce with the hinterlands “We know that cloth manufacture was a very important component of the industries in Oyo colonies and the metropolis in the early nineteenth century, and constituted valuable capital. The cloth manufacture in Ede-Ile colony could be a branch of the Oyo indigo tie and dye (adire) cloth so frequently commented upon by contemporary observers as \"superior, both for variety of pattern, color, and dimensions, to any made in the neighboring states\" and widely traded between the Gold Coast and the Bight of Benin in exchange for Brazilian tobacco, rum, beads, and imported cloth. […] The diverse range of imported cloths available on the coast and the hinterlands during the seventeenth century onwards were unprecedented, and Colleen Kriger has made a strong case that not only did local cloth production intensify during this period, but new forms and styles of indigo cloth also developed as a result of the expanded demands in \"local\" cloths within and outside Yorubaland.” […] “It seems that apart from cowries, the imported goods that penetrated inland were generally non-durable and consumable commodities such as tobacco and textiles. Although the regional trading networks of which Ede-Ile was an integral part focused on the coastal commerce, they did not yield significant diversity in the inland flow of European imports. Instead, the economic life of Ede-Ile, and of the empire in general, depended on the production and circulation of local commodities. Some of these were used to procure a wide range of European imports such as silk, damask, and scarlet textiles, as well as beads, metals, and objects of novelty.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, pp. 376-377]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, p. 381]</a> The following quote refers to archaeological findings at Ede-Ile, a colony linking Atlantic commerce with the hinterlands “Cloth was no doubt the article of the most conspicuous expenditure in Yorubaland, as in other parts of Atlantic Africa and the rest of the world during the seventeenth through the nineteenth century. The reason: the body was the most versatile site for wealth display in Mid- Atlantic Age West Africa. This would explain why cloth was the most mass-produced and sought-after manufacture, the most versatile item convertible to foreign goods, including \"cash\" in the form of cowries; and also one of the chief European imports that traveled far into the hinterlands.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, p. 377]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, p. 381]</a> The following seems to suggest that common people could access certain kinds of luxury fabrics if they could afford it. “The limited imported European goods that penetrated inland served a diverse range of purposes, from addictive to sumptuous consumption, to the pursuit of social distinction at the individual or household levels, and for sociopolitical ranking. Access to the coastal goods was made possible not by political decree but by trading activities. The later were open, for the most part, to the rank and file of the populace.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, p. 361]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/Q9PVIZNG\">[Ogundiran 2009, p. 381]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 87,
"polity": {
"id": 666,
"name": "ni_sokoto_cal",
"long_name": "Sokoto Caliphate",
"start_year": 1804,
"end_year": 1904
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The textile industry was one of the most important industries in the Sokoto Caliphate in the nineteenth century arguably second only to agriculture. agriculture. It has generally been assumed that the new Caliphate government, with its ideological stress on Islamic norms and practices, led to a rising demand for greater and greater amounts of textiles, and particularly of high quality prestige textiles. Elaborately embroidered robes, for example, were considered proper dress for by followers of Islam, while the shiny blue-black turbans known as rawanin 'Dan Kura or turkudi were sometimes made with the assistance of itinerant Islamic students who worked at dye centers. This increased production certainly seems to have been the case and reports throughout the nineteenth century and at the time of the British conquest all stressed the growth and strength of the textile industry.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RG74995D\">[Philip_J. 2006, pp. 6-7]</a> “Other craftsmen, including hundreds of cloth beaters, thousands of weavers and tailors, and countless numbers of women who spun and carded raw cotton, contributed to the industrial setting. Much of this development was a nineteenth-century phenomenon and was oriented toward foreign markets.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/CW2VI4P5\">[Lovejoy 1978, p. 356]</a> “COTTON. The soft, white material spun and woven from the fruit of a cotton plant has played an integral role in the economy and culture of Nigeria. Even before colonial rule, cotton was grown, woven, and dyed in Kano and then exported across the Sahara Desert to North African markets. Cotton was used in the production of regionally distinct textiles. The spinning of cotton into thread was typically considered women’s work. European visitors to Abeokuta during the 19th century commented on the importance of this commodity. Cotton produced in Abeokuta was sold on the Manchester exchange starting in 1853. In Abeokuta, several hundred cotton gins were in use by 1861. Cotton ginneries opened along the railroad lines at several other major towns, including as Ilorin, Kano, and Sokoto. […] Cotton farms located on the Sokoto and Gongola Rivers produce the majority of the North’s cotton.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SJAIVKDW\">[Falola_Genova 2009, pp. 85-86]</a> “While wild silk thread was not widely used in handweaving in Kano and Zaria, it was frequently used in hand embroidery of robes and trousers (Shea 1980: 103). Rather, the silk that was used in handweaving along with a range of woven silk, woolen, and cotton textiles (and thread) that came to Kano in the nineteenth century was imported mainly via trans-Saharan trade routes: \"The desert caravans to Kano... continued to function with few interruptions well into... [the twentieth century, and English cotton goods, including unbleached and bleached calico in considerable quantities, formed half to two thirds of their cargoes.... It can be shown that Kano was importing considerable quantities of yarn for weaving, in addition to the traditional import of dyed waste silk for spinning from the Mediterranean countries; it was also importing made-up clothing from North Africa, and some made in Europe to North African patterns\" (Johnson 1976: 97). Barth noted that aside from cotton plain-weave and printed textiles, a large part of trans-Saharan trade from Tripoli to Kano consisted of the magenta waste silk known as alharini (Arabic, silk).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IIT7393T\">[Renne 2018, p. 36]</a> “Paul Staudinger, who visited Zaria in September 1885, described an audience with Sarkin Muhammad Sambo, who reigned from 1881 to 1890: \"After a few minutes' delay we were called to the king... On a kind of clay platform in oriental fashion sat a venerable man, dressed simply but in garments of fine quality. His face was obscured by the dark blue face veil.... Later we saw the sultan's face unveiled; he had dignified, kindly features; a thin grey beard bore witness to his age. The ruler of Zaria's name was Zambo [Sambo]\" ([1889] 1990: 1:173).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/IIT7393T\">[Renne 2018, p. 29]</a> “Technological innovation, an expanding industry, and increased labor mobility led to greater efficiency and to different kinds of cloth as well as to new types of Caliphate-wide styles of garments. The consolidation of the Sokoto Caliphate also led to a demand for better quality textiles and garments, but as Kriger has posited increased production on a kind of factory basis led to a decline in quality: ‘A transition to workshop production can be observed in the contrast of workmanship between early- and late-nineteenth century robes.... Later robes lack detail and consistency, and repertory of stitches has been reduced to three main ones: patterned couching, chain, and eyelet.’ While I have to defer to her technical expertise, demand for elegant and expensive gowns was not just for high state officials and foreign dignitaries as she suggests, but there were numerous servants (barori) and slaves connected with the state who wore expensive silk and embroidered gowns, and even clowns at court were conspicuous with their expensive gowns, which had obviously been given them by their patron. There must, therefore, have been an increased market overall, which meant necessarily more high quality gowns as well as more medium (and even lower) quality gowns.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/RG74995D\">[Philip_J. 2006, pp. 15-16]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 88,
"polity": {
"id": 662,
"name": "ni_whydah_k",
"long_name": "Whydah",
"start_year": 1671,
"end_year": 1727
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign domestic",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“These cities also provided the primary markets in their territories. The marketplace at Savi drew 5,000 people on market day in its heyday. Rural communities brought goods to the markets of Savi and Grand Ardra every fourth day (the market week) to ply commodities such as salt, textiles, basketry, calabashes, pottery and other products for sale. […] Despite the indigenous origins and local orientation of these cities, trans-Atlantic trade emerged as an increasingly significant factor in urban-rural dynamics along the Slave Coast. During this period, human captives— taken in slave raids against weaker neighbors—became the predominant export from the region. Exports from the Slave Coast amounted to 5,000 captives per year in the 1680s, and peaked at 10,000 per year from the 1690s through the 1710s. Goods received in exchange for captives were predominantly textiles and cowry shells (Cypraea moneta), which originated in the Indian Ocean and were the principle currency in the region.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6IXMBKA7\">[Monroe 2011, pp. 402-403]</a> “African slave dealers, whether they were traditional chiefs, like those on the Slave Coast, or private traders, developed an expensive taste for European luxury goods, in particular for silks, velvets and gold-embroidered cloth. One might say that the slave trade prevented or suppressed the development of an African industry of refined luxury goods; but there are various accounts on the for instance, of an important cottage industry for the production of coarse cotton cloth on the Slave Coast. Some of this cloth was produced for export and bought by European traders who sold it again on other parts of the coast and even in the West Indies.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/MB4M8FA6\">[Van_Dantzig 1975, p. 264]</a> “Although historical sources suggest some of these items entered regional markets for sale, imported trade goods were a closely guarded source of symbolic power for kings. Period accounts describe public ceremonies, including royal coronations and elaborate rituals following the death of a king, in which large quantities of luxuries were displayed and distributed to the general public. Royal power and prestige were intimately tied to the success of these ceremonies. On the one hand, the public display of wealth accumulated in trade reinforced the symbolic power of the king. On the other, the distribution of such goods to loyal followers was a strategy for integrating subjects into a stable political system. Controlling access to Atlantic wealth became a key component of kings’ strategies to instill political order. Whereas local markets economically integrated town and countryside, it was luxuries acquired in trade that served as the political glue binding rural lords to urban royal dynasties. Trade goods were thus hotly sought after in Allada and Hueda, and their respective kings jockeyed to corner the lion’s share of these new sources of power.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6IXMBKA7\">[Monroe 2011, p. 403]</a> “The king and his dignitaries, as well as representatives of the European companies, were carried in hammocks of “braided or woven cotton” imported from Brazil.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a> “As was the case in Allada, historical sources indicate that the Huedan king’s power rested largely on how well he was able to funnel Atlantic wealth into the hands of rural chiefs. Excavations conducted by Norman at rural sites reveal hardly any examples of such goods, however, indicating that the provinces and their rural hinterlands were never integrated economically into the circulation of imported commodities. Thus the countryside did not share in the Atlantic wealth that defined court life at Savi.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/6IXMBKA7\">[Monroe 2011, p. 404]</a> “In Hueda, as a French slave ship captain explained, the “grandees” used to wear “a piece of silk cloth, six to seven au[nes] long,” around their waists.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/4DNMTU2B\">[Zaugg 2018, p. 125]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 89,
"polity": {
"id": 83,
"name": "pe_inca_emp",
"long_name": "Inca Empire",
"start_year": 1375,
"end_year": 1532
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 83,
"name": "pe_inca_emp",
"long_name": "Inca Empire",
"start_year": 1375,
"end_year": 1532
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“The royal dead formed a procession of powerful bodies dressed in fine cloth and borne in elaborate litters that were shaded by retainers carrying colorful feather parasols.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/L8TC8ITM\">[Covey 2020, p. 35]</a> “They brought a tributary gift: twenty elaborate male ceremonial costumes, woven with golden thread.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/L8TC8ITM\">[Covey 2020, p. 146]</a> “The best-known tool is a fabric register called the khipu , or “knot” in Quechua, and chinu or “knot-record” in Aymara (figure 5.2; plate 5.3).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AA5PS4Q4\">[D’Altroy 2015, p. 149]</a> “The majority of fibres of precolumbian Pero were cotton and camelid wool. [...] The chief sources of wool for the ancient Peruvians were the two domesticvated camelids, the llama and the alpaca. [...] Another wild member of the same family, the vicuna, has even finer hairs which were much prized by the Incas.”” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/5EXRHPGE\">[Feltham 1989, pp. 16-17]</a> “This meant gaining control over many valued products—gold, coca leaf, cotton, colorful feathers, shell—which signaled the capacity to reach far beyond the kin-based labor networks of highland farming and herding societies who were their first conquests. [...] Raw materials taken from across the Andes—tropical hardwoods, gold, colorful feathers, marine shell, and soft vicuña wool— arrived in the city periodically as tribute, to be worked by the mamakuna and the Inca’s artisans into fine cloth, drinking cups, and jewelry the rulers gave to their families and their loyal subjects. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/L8TC8ITM\">[Covey 2020, pp. 57-59]</a> “One female mummy was extraordinarily well preserved (plate 8.3), while the other two had been damaged by lightning. The boy was dressed in a red tunic and had a headdress of white feathers; he wore leather moccasins and had a silver bracelet. The girls wore dresses, fastened with belts around the waist and pins at the shoulders; the older girl was also adorned with a feather headdress. Radiocarbon dates taken from the last mummy indicate that she died during the period ad 1430– 1520, precisely within the time frame of the Inca empire (Wilson et al . 2007: 16457).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AA5PS4Q4\">[D’Altroy 2015, pp. 284-285]</a> “Raw materials taken from across the Andes—tropical hardwoods, gold, colorful feathers, marine shell, and soft vicuña wool— arrived in the city periodically as tribute, to be worked by the mamakuna and the Inca’s artisans into fine cloth, drinking cups, and jewelry the rulers gave to their families and their loyal subjects. ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/L8TC8ITM\">[Covey 2020, p. 59]</a> “After a day on the pilgrimage road, travelers passed a checkpoint at the town of Yunguyo, where they changed into their finest clothing and jewelry before entering the Copacabana Peninsula. Copacabana was a special precinct set apart from the provinces, governed by Inca nobles, and occupied by retainer households who had been resettled from more than forty provincial groups.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/L8TC8ITM\">[Covey 2020, p. 42]</a> “The Lupaca people of the Titicaca basin admitted as much in an early encounter with Spanish officials: they said that whenever word arrived that Inca inspectors were coming, they hid parts of their herds in hard-to-reach areas until the imperial inspectors had left. The only time that Inca rulers had direct presence in those high spaces was when they mobilized province-wide hunts, coordinating their farming subjects to encircle a region and drive wild game—and perhaps ungoverned people, too—into a central place where the nobility could shear the vicuñas and hunt the wild cats and other predators in an enclosed space.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/L8TC8ITM\">[Covey 2020, p. 62]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 90,
"polity": {
"id": 446,
"name": "pg_orokaiva_colonial",
"long_name": "Orokaiva - Colonial",
"start_year": 1884,
"end_year": 1942
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 446,
"name": "pg_orokaiva_colonial",
"long_name": "Orokaiva - Colonial",
"start_year": 1884,
"end_year": 1942
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "British Empire; Australia",
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": "present",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "High-quality barkcloth; trade cloth considered of high-value. “[Referring to research gathered by the author during fieldwork in the Orokaiva region of Papua New Guinea from September 1923 to March 1925] Numerous wild trees (I have eight names which I imagine to be mostly ficus) yield bo or bark-cloth. The best is named Ajimo, which provides a very white [and fine] cloth [regarded culturally as of high-value]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3T4XXPM3\">[Williams 1969, p. 77]</a> “[Referring to contact with Europeans from the mid-1880s] The missionaries were most likely to handle threatening situations by giving goods such as cloth [via Europe]…Desire for Western goods was…an extremely important element in the initial contact phase. […] …from the Orokaivan villager’s point of view, the period from 1910 to 1940 gave the ordinary man a wider perspective on the world…He was forced to participate in a cash nexus…The money gave him access to highly prized trade goods [via Europe] such as…cloth…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KECWNXTU\">[Newton 1985, p. 30]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KECWNXTU\">[Newton 1985, p. 42]</a> Main contact polities for Western goods inferred from colonial rulers. “In response to Australian pressure, the British government annexed Papua in 1888. Gold was discovered shortly thereafter, resulting in a major movement of prospectors and miners to what was then the Northern District. Relations with the Papuans were bad from the start, and there were numerous killings on both sides. The Protectorate of British New Guinea became Australian territory by the passing of the Papua Act of 1905 by the Commonwealth Government of Australia. The new administration adopted a policy of peaceful penetration, and many measures of social and economic national development were introduced. Local control was in the hands of village constables, paid servants of the Crown. Chosen by European officers, they were intermediaries between the government and the people.’ <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/V2AK2FR7\">[Latham_Beierle 2004]</a> Trade cloth considered of high-value. “[Referring to contact with Europeans from the mid-1880s] The missionaries were most likely to handle threatening situations by giving goods such as cloth [via Europe]…Desire for Western goods was…an extremely important element in the initial contact phase. […] …from the Orokaivan villager’s point of view, the period from 1910 to 1940 gave the ordinary man a wider perspective on the world…He was forced to participate in a cash nexus…The money gave him access to highly prized trade goods [via Europe] such as…cloth…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KECWNXTU\">[Newton 1985, p. 30]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KECWNXTU\">[Newton 1985, p. 42]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 91,
"polity": {
"id": 445,
"name": "pg_orokaiva_pre_colonial",
"long_name": "Orokaiva - Pre-Colonial",
"start_year": 1734,
"end_year": 1883
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 445,
"name": "pg_orokaiva_pre_colonial",
"long_name": "Orokaiva - Pre-Colonial",
"start_year": 1734,
"end_year": 1883
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "High-quality barkcloth; trade cloth considered of high-value. “[Referring to research gathered by the author during fieldwork in the Orokaiva region of Papua New Guinea from September 1923 to March 1925, also applicable prior to European contact in the mid-1880s, although the author does not specify this in-text; examples of early high-quality barkcloth in museum collections in Europe attest to the latter being manufactured in the late C19 and possibly earlier] Numerous wild trees (I have eight names which I imagine to be mostly ficus) yield bo or bark-cloth. The best is named Ajimo, which provides a very white [and fine] cloth [regarded culturally as of high-value]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3T4XXPM3\">[Williams 1969, p. 77]</a> “[Referring to contact with Europeans from the mid-1880s] The missionaries were most likely to handle threatening situations by giving goods such as cloth [via Europe]…Desire for Western goods [not before available] was…an extremely important element in the initial contact phase. […] …from the Orokaivan villager’s point of view, the period from 1910 to 1940 gave the ordinary man a wider perspective on the world…He was forced to participate in a cash nexus…The money gave him access to highly prized trade goods [via Europe] such as…cloth…”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KECWNXTU\">[Newton 1985, p. 30]</a>, <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KECWNXTU\">[Newton 1985, p. 42]</a> High-quality barkcloth. “[Referring to research gathered by the author during fieldwork in the Orokaiva region of Papua New Guinea from September 1923 to March 1925, also applicable prior to European contact in the mid-1880s, although the author does not specify this in-text; examples of early high-quality barkcloth in museum collections in Europe attest to the latter being manufactured in the late C19 and possibly earlier] Numerous wild trees (I have eight names which I imagine to be mostly ficus) yield bo or bark-cloth. The best is named Ajimo, which provides a very white [and fine] cloth [regarded culturally as of high-value]”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/3T4XXPM3\">[Williams 1969, p. 77]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 92,
"polity": {
"id": 117,
"name": "pk_kachi_enl",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Aceramic Neolithic",
"start_year": -7500,
"end_year": -5500
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 117,
"name": "pk_kachi_enl",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Aceramic Neolithic",
"start_year": -7500,
"end_year": -5500
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "cotton. “More than 300 graves, attributed to the aceramic Neolithic period I, have been excavated and the copper bead (MR.84.03.158.01b) containing the cotton fibres was found in one of these graves dated to the first half of the 6th millennium (Jarrige, 2000). The funerary chamber, sealed by a low mud brick wall, contained the remains of two persons, one male adult and, at his feet, a child, approximately one or two years old. The adult lay on his left side, with the head towards the East and the legs flexed backward (Figure 2), this being the most common position in the Mehrgarh burials. Even though many of the graves contained funerary deposits, the grave goods of this one—a set of eight copper beads, found next to the adult’s left wrist—were exceptional as metal beads have been recorded from only two of all the Neolithic burials excavated and even among all the adornments discovered so far (Barthe´le´my de Saizieu, 1994, 592, 599).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KQ77FEMG\">[Moulherat_et_al 2002, p. 1394]</a> “Traces of a cotton thread were detected inside a bracelet of copper beads from a grave dating to the end of period I, currently the earliest known evidence of cotton textile in the world.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TQJ2CDW6\">[McIntosh 2008, p. 61]</a> “Cotton may have been cultivated at Mehrgarh by the fifth millennium, though, like Linum, it may also have been grown for its oil-rich seeds.” “Traces of a cotton thread were detected inside a bracelet of copper beads from a grave dating to the end of period I, currently the earliest known evidence of cotton textile in the world.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TQJ2CDW6\">[McIntosh 2008, p. 115]</a> “COTTON Used for making thread by the end of period I at Mehrgarh (sixth millennium BCE), cotton (Gossypium arboreum) was domesticated in the subcontinent and probably cultivated as a perennial shrub.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TQJ2CDW6\">[McIntosh 2008, p. 406]</a> “The Indus Valley has been suggested as a possible centre of domestication and diffusion (Brubaker, Bourland & Wendel, 1999: 21) but in the light of the early cotton find from Neolithic Mehrgarh, it seems that cotton was used and perhaps even domesticated in the Kachi Plain of central Balochistan, several millennia before the rise of the Indus Civilization. Even though no wild Gossypium species is known from this part of Pakistan today, the open woodland or pseudo-savannah that characterized the surroundings of Mehrgarh in the past (Tengberg, Thie´bault, in press) could have constituted a favourable environment for the possible progenitor of G. arboreum. Besides the fibres described above, a few seeds attributed to Gossypium sp., were found in a period II context (5th millennium ) at the site (Costantini, 1984: 32). It is true, however, that neither the fibres, nor the seeds from Mehrgarh allow us to assert that cotton was actually domesticated in the Kachi Plain during the Neolithic and the use of wild cotton fibres remains equally possible. Nevertheless, we should bear in mind that the early inhabitants of the site were already experienced agriculturists, well acquainted with the cultivation of several crop plants (Costantini, 1984; Costantini & Costantini-Biasini, 1985). The processing of crude cotton fibres in order to obtain the thread attested at Mehrgarh would have required a certain experience of the use of fibre plants.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KQ77FEMG\">[Moulherat_et_al 2002, p. 1398]</a> “More than 300 graves, attributed to the aceramic Neolithic period I, have been excavated and the copper bead (MR.84.03.158.01b) containing the cotton fibres was found in one of these graves dated to the first half of the 6th millennium (Jarrige, 2000). The funerary chamber, sealed by a low mud brick wall, contained the remains of two persons, one male adult and, at his feet, a child, approximately one or two years old. The adult lay on his left side, with the head towards the East and the legs flexed backward (Figure 2), this being the most common position in the Mehrgarh burials. Even though many of the graves contained funerary deposits, the grave goods of this one—a set of eight copper beads, found next to the adult’s left wrist—were exceptional as metal beads have been recorded from only two of all the Neolithic burials excavated and even among all the adornments discovered so far (Barthe´le´my de Saizieu, 1994, 592, 599).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/KQ77FEMG\">[Moulherat_et_al 2002, p. 1394]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 93,
"polity": {
"id": 118,
"name": "pk_kachi_lnl",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Ceramic Neolithic",
"start_year": -5500,
"end_year": -4000
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 118,
"name": "pk_kachi_lnl",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Ceramic Neolithic",
"start_year": -5500,
"end_year": -4000
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "spindle whorl “By around 4300 BCE (Togau phase), the number of settlements known in Baluchistan and in the adjacent lowlands had greatly increased, and often they were larger than earlier sites. These settlements included Periano Ghundai in the Zhob Valley, Mundigak in the Kandahar region, Faiz Mohammad in the Quetta Valley, Togau in the Sarawan region, and Sheri Khan Tarakai in the Bannu Basin. Occupation also continued at Mehrgarh (period III) and other existing settlements. Pottery, which had developed rapidly, was of fine quality, and many vessels were shaped on a wheel, allowing a degree of mass production, though others were handmade. Often the pots were painted with abstract or geometric designs. The widely distributed Togau ware vessels were decorated with stylized figures of caprids, birds, and other animals; somewhat similarly decorated wares were also being produced in contemporary Iran and Turkmenia. The geometric patterns are reminiscent of those created in later woven fabric and carpets, suggesting that there was also a flourishing textile industry: A spindle whorl found at Sheri Khan Tarakai supports this. Mehrgarh had become a center of craft production by the early fourth millennium: There workshops turned out large quantities of fine pottery, beads of lapis lazuli, turquoise, shell, and carnelian, shell bangles, and bone and stone tools, including tiny drills made of phtanite (a hard green chert containing traces of iron oxide) for perforating beads. A deep deposit of debris at the site included the remains of circular kilns, ash, and pottery wasters. A range of industrial activities has also been found at other sites of the period. The development of kilns used to fire pottery at high temperatures gave the people of Baluchistan advanced pyrotechnological skills, which they also employed in other industrial activities. The majority of beads at Mehrgarh were made of steatite in a variety of shapes but standardized in size. They were converted to a white color by heating, and faint traces on their surface show that they were coated with a copper-based glaze, creating a type of faience: This would have required a controlled kiln temperature of around 1000 degrees Centigrade.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TQJ2CDW6\">[McIntosh 2008, pp. 62-63]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 94,
"polity": {
"id": 123,
"name": "pk_kachi_post_urban",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Post-Urban Period",
"start_year": -1800,
"end_year": -1300
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 123,
"name": "pk_kachi_post_urban",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Post-Urban Period",
"start_year": -1800,
"end_year": -1300
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“ There is evidence for silk from a bead thread at Nevasa in peninsular India c . 1500 bc (Gulati 1961; see also Good 1995; Janaway and Coningham 1995).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UP5DGR56\">[Good_Kenoyer_Meadow 2009, p. 458]</a> “This new evidence of silk from both the recent excavations at the site of Harappa and from the Chanhu-daro collection curated at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, indicates that silk threads were being produced nearly a millennium earlier than the Nevasa finds, and were being used in more than one Indus settlement during the height of Indus urbanism. [...] This knowledge helps to explain other early instances of silk in Eurasia outside of China, specifically from the mid-second millennium bc Deccan Peninsula of India (Gulati 1961) and contemporaneously in Bactria (Askarov 1973). ” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UP5DGR56\">[Good_Kenoyer_Meadow 2009, pp. 458-464]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 95,
"polity": {
"id": 121,
"name": "pk_kachi_urban_1",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Urban Period I",
"start_year": -2500,
"end_year": -2100
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 121,
"name": "pk_kachi_urban_1",
"long_name": "Kachi Plain - Urban Period I",
"start_year": -2500,
"end_year": -2100
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": null,
"ruler_consumption_tag": null,
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "“At least two separate types of silk were utilized in the Indus in the mid-third millennium BC.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UP5DGR56\">[Good_Kenoyer_Meadow 2009, p. 464]</a> “This research offers new insight on the extent and antiquity of sericulture. Specifically, these finds indicate the use of wild indigenous silkmoth species in South Asia as early as the mid-third millennium bc. Careful morphological study of highly degraded fibres through images derived from scanning electron microscopy allows subtle but distinct and diagnostic features of fibre surface and fibre shaft morphology to aid in moth species identification. At least two separate types of silk were utilized in the Indus in the mid-third millennium BC.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/UP5DGR56\">[Good_Kenoyer_Meadow 2009, p. 464]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 96,
"polity": {
"id": 133,
"name": "pk_sind_abbasid_fatimid",
"long_name": "Sind - Abbasid-Fatimid Period",
"start_year": 854,
"end_year": 1193
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Cotton; silk; wool. “Far more important for the Muslim Arabs was Sind’s role as a passway of the India trade at large. This role it acquired in the seventh century - when Syrian merchants are first noted off Debal [...] When Debal was conquered, trade between Muslims and the merchants of Sind took off without delay. Sindi, and more generally Arab merchants (on the coast the Azdis of Oman) formed the commercial intermediary between Sind and the rest of India, Kabul, the Himalayas, Gujaray, Malabar, Sri Lanka and beyond, the Malay Peninsula, the Archipelago, and China. Through the same networks of trade, Sind also received its own import articles, such as fine cotton cloth (from Kabul for instance)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AI7QEPE7\">[Wink 1991, p. 173]</a> “There is also evidence to show that woolen and cotton textiles were very common among the people of Sind much before the arrival of Arabs. These industries which were carried on a limited scale for the local consumption received a great impetus because of the possibility of [a] large export of finished goods when Sind became a part of the Islamic Commonwealth. Keen interest exhibited by the Delhi Sultans in the local handicrafts further extended its base. Under the benign rule of the local dynasties, the traditional industries of the region received much patronage and encouragement. [...] The textile was one of the most established industries of Sind and its tradition goes as [far] back as to the pre-historic times. Various cities and towns of the valley were known for this industry like Nasrpur and Thatta. These were big centres with a considerable population of weavers”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8DZ7RPZ8\">[Islam 1990, pp. 229-230]</a> “Sindi, and more generally Arab merchants (on the coast the Azdis of Oman) formed the commercial intermediary between Sind and the rest of India, Kabul, the Himalayas, Gujaray, Malabar, Sri Lanka and beyond, the Malay Peninsula, the Archipelago, and China. Through the same networks of trade, Sind also received its own import articles, such as fine cotton cloth (from Kabul for instance)”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/AI7QEPE7\">[Wink 1991, p. 173]</a> If rulers patronised local industries, it seems reasonable to infer this included the textile industry, and that they were also able to acquire the more luxurious textiles produced. “Keen interest exhibited by the Delhi Sultans in the local handicrafts further extended its base. Under the benign rule of the local dynasties, the traditional industries of the region received much patronage and encouragement. [...] The textile was one of the most established industries of Sind and its tradition goes as [far] back as to the pre-historic times. Various cities and towns of the valley were known for this industry like Nasrpur and Thatta. These were big centres with a considerable population of weavers”. <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/8DZ7RPZ8\">[Islam 1990, pp. 229-230]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 97,
"polity": {
"id": 708,
"name": "pt_portuguese_emp_1",
"long_name": "Portuguese Empire - Renaissance Period",
"start_year": 1495,
"end_year": 1579
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": null,
"elite_consumption_tag": null,
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silks; brocade; velvet; cotton. “In 1499 the feitoria was shifted from Bruges to Antwerp where the Portuguese began selling pepper… The Antwerp feitoria also handled Portuguese re-exports of many other Asian goods, including Chinese porcelain, silk and an increasing range of spices...” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TKKDT5CZ\">[Disney 2009, p. 147]</a> “Under Manuel the royal court grew ever larger and more magnificent, and around the person of the king was played out an increasingly elaborate ritual… When travelling the king rode on horseback sheltered by a canopy of rich brocade…” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TKKDT5CZ\">[Disney 2009, p. 151]</a> “The trend was evident especially in the founding of Macau in the mid-1550s and in the development of the Japan trade. While pepper became less important on the Cape route, trade in products like cotton piece goods, silks and porcelain increased.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TKKDT5CZ\">[Disney 2009, p. 178]</a> “In order to gain an idea of the international quality of such goods, let us join that lisboeta as he inspected the cargoes being unloaded on the wharves of Lisbon in the 1550s… Commercialrivalries notwithstanding, from Venice came velvets, silks, apparel…” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SWIK4JIU\">[Russell-Wood 1998, pp. 124-125]</a> “In 1499 the feitoria was shifted from Bruges to Antwerp where the Portuguese began selling pepper… The Antwerp feitoria also handled Portuguese re-exports of many other Asian goods, including Chinese porcelain, silk and an increasing range of spices...” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/TKKDT5CZ\">[Disney 2009, p. 147]</a> “In order to gain an idea of the international quality of such goods, let us join that lisboeta as he inspected the cargoes being unloaded on the wharves of Lisbon in the 1550s… Commercial rivalries notwithstanding, from Venice came velvets, silks, apparel…” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SWIK4JIU\">[Russell-Wood 1998, pp. 124-125]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 98,
"polity": {
"id": 709,
"name": "pt_portuguese_emp_2",
"long_name": "Portuguese Empire - Early Modern",
"start_year": 1640,
"end_year": 1806
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "TRS",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "present",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [
{
"id": 709,
"name": "pt_portuguese_emp_2",
"long_name": "Portuguese Empire - Early Modern",
"start_year": 1640,
"end_year": 1806
}
],
"place_of_provenance_str": "foreign",
"ruler_consumption": "present",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"elite_consumption": "present",
"elite_consumption_tag": "TRS",
"common_people_consumption": null,
"common_people_consumption_tag": null,
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "Silks; textiles; damask. “An insufficiency of gainful employment caused many people to leave Portugal to seek their fortunes in the colonies. Fear of being impressed into service against the Spanish or flight from the ubiquitous Inquisition impelled the departure of many others. The economic decline that set in after 1670 and the post-1690 gold discoveries in Brazil gave further incentive to would-be emigrants… Severim de Faria proposed policies favorable to domestic manufacturing as a solution to unemployment and the depressed rate of population growth. He advocated diversified production of textiles, including luxury fabrics, as an especially effective means of putting people to work.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC4T982R\">[Hanson 1981, p. 117]</a> “One exception was Makassar in the Celebes which was used by the Portuguese for a trade which flourished in the first quarter of the seventeenth century, attracting Portuguese vessels from Macao, Malacca, and even the ports of Coromandel, to exchange Chinese silks and Indian textiles…” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/SWIK4JIU\">[Russell-Wood 1998, p. 41]</a> “Despite the termination of a commercial venture that had shown promise, other companies were established after 1699… Other imports included porcelains from Macau, specie, indigo, pepper, calicoes, silks, damasks, and various other fabrics.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC4T982R\">[Hanson 1981, p. 214]</a> “An insufficiency of gainful employment caused many people to leave Portugal to seek their fortunes in the colonies. Fear of being impressed into service against the Spanish or flight from the ubiquitous Inquisition impelled the departure of many others. The economic decline that set in after 1670 and the post-1690 gold discoveries in Brazil gave further incentive to would-be emigrants… Severim de Faria proposed policies favorable to domestic manufacturing as a solution to unemployment and the depressed rate of population growth. He advocated diversified production of textiles, including luxury fabrics, as an especially effective means of putting people to work.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC4T982R\">[Hanson 1981, p. 117]</a> “Despite the importance of wool, a commodity that was consumed by all classes, the production of silk (garments of which were legallyif not actually restricted to the privileged classes) apparently got prior consideration. Indeed, apparently one of Ericeira's first priorities as superintendent was to develop an alternative supply of luxury fabric for the privileged and thus reduce the outflow of bullion going for foreign silks… Unlike the 1668 pragmatica, the 1677 promulgation was accompanied by a broad program to revive domestic silk production and thereby provide the privileged with an alternative supply of fabrics regarded as emblematic of their elevated status.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC4T982R\">[Hanson 1981, p. 166]</a> “Criticism of Ericeira's program was muted during the economically depressed 1680s, but many of the privileged no doubt grumbled about the prohibitions on consumption of foreign luxury items that the pragmaticas of 1668 and 1677 imposed. Furthermore, many nobles, clerics, letrados, and wealthy merchants ignored these laws, continuing to purchase and wear forbidden fabrics and apparel. This is clearly suggested by the fact that in 1686 the crown feh compelled to issue yet another pragmatica against conspicuous consumption. This latest edict, which noted an alarming rise in the consumption of luxury goods, ordered that transgressors, including native tailors who produced costumes in which scarce gold or silver was used as threads and adornments, be fined for the first offense and jailed for the second. The law also imposed greater restrictions in imports, prohibiting the use of \"any type of black or colored fabric not manufactured in the realm.\" 9 Two years later, further dress restrictions were enacted as the crown again attempted to divert consumption to local products.” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/WC4T982R\">[Hanson 1981, p. 266]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 99,
"polity": {
"id": 694,
"name": "rw_bugesera_k",
"long_name": "Bugesera",
"start_year": 1700,
"end_year": 1799
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "The following quote seems to suggest there were no luxury fabrics. “Tribute was paid to these courts in the form of labour or in kind (cattle, baskets of provisions, special products such as salt, honey or weapons). The ruling aristocracy could thus extend its influence by redistribution, for there was little luxury (clothing was of skins or bark; local vegetation was used for the construction of residences).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ETKPKNZ2\">[Ogot_et_al 1992, p. 825]</a>",
"description": null
},
{
"id": 100,
"polity": {
"id": 692,
"name": "rw_gisaka_k",
"long_name": "Gisaka",
"start_year": 1700,
"end_year": 1867
},
"year_from": null,
"year_to": null,
"tag": "IFR",
"is_disputed": false,
"is_uncertain": false,
"coded_value": "absent",
"place_of_provenance_pol": [],
"place_of_provenance_str": null,
"ruler_consumption": "absent",
"ruler_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"elite_consumption": "absent",
"elite_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"common_people_consumption": "absent",
"common_people_consumption_tag": "IFR",
"name": "Luxury_fabrics",
"comment": "The following quote seems to suggest there were no luxury fabrics. “Tribute was paid to these courts in the form of labour or in kind (cattle, baskets of provisions, special products such as salt, honey or weapons). The ruling aristocracy could thus extend its influence by redistribution, for there was little luxury (clothing was of skins or bark; local vegetation was used for the construction of residences).” <a class=\"fw-bold\" href=\"https://www.zotero.org/groups/1051264/seshat_databank/items/ETKPKNZ2\">[Ogot_et_al 1992, p. 825]</a>",
"description": null
}
]
}